Protecting aluminum from electrolysis?

I just got the flat motor running in my '36 pick up. For break in purposes, I'm keeping her cool with just distilled water. Everything seems to be working OK. This is my flathead running the 409 water pump with the adapters I picked up off the 'bay. I know it is not a problem yet, but I'm worried about electrolysis pulling material off the aluminum adapters sandwiched between the water pump and block. What kind of additives do you guys run to protect aluminum parts in the cooling system? I thought I would get the anode tampon but with an unpressurized cap on the stock radiator, the water level barely shows in the top tank. I reckon it would be immersed when she warms up. Suggestions appreciated. (Yes, I will get it pressurized later but right now she's running around 170 with the shop fan blowing on it.)

 

As long as your running distilled water I wouldn't worry. Distilled water has a very limited electrical conductivity and even with the almost immeasurable electrical flow, the aluminum surface area of the adapter further minimizes any leaching effect. When you add anti-freeze the conductivity will increase substantially which may mean you have to replace the adapter in 10 years if you add the zinc anode to the cap and flush the system regularly.

Terry

 

http://www.evanscooling.com

my friend uses this on his 57 for 15 years and pulled the aluminum manifold off and it looked like the day he put it on.

I use it in my big block A for cooling, nothing beats it

 

On outboard boat motors they attach a sacrafical annode. Is that something that could be used?

 

www.radcapproducts.net/

 

Are the annodes a good idea for someone running a water/anti-freeze mix with aluminum heads and intake? I'm about to plunk down a lot of cash for heads and I want to make sure I take care of them.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...37;3AMEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=120088432369&rd=1

Check this out! I just stumbled on this and I'm wondering if this is something I could put in a flathead's head to act as an anode. Anyone know about how long a sacrificial anode lasts?

 

there is also another cause for electrolysis. GM had problems in there trucks for a while. make sure that your ground straps are on the cast iron block and not anything aluminum. the current transfer between aluminum to steel is different and this causes a lot of corrosion problems. so if you have aluminum heads or manifold on an iron or steel block. install your ground straps directly to the block, not the heads or manifold.
Dave

 

'Drive Magazine' had an article and stated that distilled water is not the best. It is missing some component and will borrow it from the metal around it - your engine metals. Tap water is a killer on cooling systems - especially in Calif. Back east engines that run tap water always seem to fare better than Calif engines on tap water. I've seen some nasty corroded water jackets in Calif cars on tap water (Calif home hot water tanks don't last long either)!

Have experienced several Olds engines with rusted through front engine plates - the plate the water pump bolts to. The water then dumps directly into the oil pan.

.There are some stores in Calif that specialize in selling filtered water. Using that water and water pump lube works good. Straight water does cool better than anti-freeze.

 

Don't run copper head gaskets and alum. heads. They will dissappear!

 

Man, there is some good info here. Thanks.

 

Google: No-Rosion. I use it and it works great.

 

Frequent coolant flushes, you can test with a dvom, ground to battery, pos in coolant in radiator , shouldn't be more than .4 V

 

Yo Max, do you use the HyperKuuhl or the straight anti-corrosion stuff? Either way, thanks for the link. Lou.