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What kind of tie rods are cheepest and work best

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 57chevywagonman, May 22, 2008.

  1. I am starting to mock up the frame and suspension on my 1923 model T. What tie rod ends are you guys using when you split the bones?

    Thanks!

    Mike
     
  2. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,631

    GARY?
    Member

    You are asking for two qualities that don't go together.

    Speedway is easy shopping. Better yet get a hold of Riley Auto an Alliance member. They can fill your head full of front end ideas, and take yer cash too:)
     
  3. chopo
    Joined: Feb 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,265

    chopo
    Member

    CHEAP never equals BEST!



    I would not go cheap on anything that you need to stop or steer with. just my 2 cents
     
  4. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    I was thinking the same thing..Sorry i can't answer your question, but i will give advice that was given to me...even though you didn't ask. :)
    Don't penny pinch on the chassis and brakes of a car build.
    Put the quality stuff where safety is an issue. At least you will have peace of mind knowing you did your part to keep yourself and other's safe..
     

  5. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    Speedway can sell you the bungs, the tie rod ends, and the never seize to put it all together. It all works well, its inexpensive, and hasnt broken yet.
     
  6. How expensive could even the best tie rod be? Fords from Speedway are $8-$10.
     
  7. Some of these are made off shore. I changed mine for nos ford
     
  8. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,374

    TERPU
    Member

    The kind you find on old Fords. Buy the tap or taps from Speedway L and R. Then cut the tierods and drill them to size for the taps. While you are at it buy new tie rod ends to avoid failure. This is easy, and cheap for under $100.00 you can solve all your problems. I used F-1 and F-2 stuff but any Ford tie rod should do. Truck ones are usually the longest so you can modify to suit. I just read a little closer and I used the Speedway weld on bungs as well. I am building a 1924 TUB

    Tim
     
  9. Bort62
    Joined: Jan 11, 2007
    Posts: 594

    Bort62
    BANNED

    I think it is perfectly reasonable to ask what is cheapest and best. If product A is as good as Product B, but for some reason B is more expensive, then A is cheapest as well as being best.

    Inexpensive or cost-effecive are probably better words however. Cheap implies low quality.

    Just because something costs more doesn't make it better.
     
  10. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    Very good point..
    When i read cheapest the first thing i thought was poor quality...
     
  11. Well I was hoping to have you guys tell me something like 1950 ford 1 ton or something. I can make the bungs very easily on the lathe in my garage or at work. The tie rod end is the mystery to me. Likely would buy them from my independent parts house here in town as he traditionaly can sve me money while providing me with quality parts.

    Mike
     
  12. Rootie Kazoootie
    Joined: Nov 27, 2006
    Posts: 8,134

    Rootie Kazoootie
    Member
    from Colorado

    The taper of the tie rod end needs to match the taper in the frame bracket. If you have a aftermarket bracket it probably has the old ford taper. If you are going to make and taper your own brackets you can use any tierod end you like. Here's some H-D 3/4 in. shank tierod ends:
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,698

    Weasel
    Member

    Why do some of you guys like to play Russian roulette with your lives by nickel and dimeing to save a few $$$ on critical components? Are you the ones who end up whining about cheap crap when it breaks? Cheap is cheap for a reason. You wanna die for a $2.00 saving?
     
  14. Look! I am not talking about Low quality! I am talking about equal quality for less money. I also have a 57 Chevy. Lots of times I see a part that I need in Danchuk, I then stop buy my local parts seller and show him what it is I am looking at in the book. For instance, side motor mounts. John has them in stock, no shiping and handeling, no waiting, and often half as much as Danchuck. Why shoulkd I pay more fore the same thing?

    Everyone has to make a living. These mail order houses get the parts from the same manufacturers as my parts guy, and they have to mark up the price. Perhaps its for convenience. Perhaps they just expect some people to walk blindly into the purchase. Perhaps it is just greed. I pride myself on being a smart shoper. I try hard to get the most for my money without sacrificing quality. I think most of us do.

    Thanks for your help guys.

    Mike
     
  15. Nothing wrong with trying to save money! Nothing wrong with good used parts either. We had a 59 ford ranchero that the front end was worn out. we also had a 61 galaxie that had burnt the dash and interior that i bought for the drivetrain40 years ago only had 10,000 miles .We used all the 61 front end parts on the 59. I think those old used gennie ford parts are better used than some new ones that are made overseas from recycled scrap:eek:OldWolf
     

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