OK, so I am a hack. I have an aluminum Muncie 4spd that was leaking so fast that it was emptying in about 4 weeks. I bought a grease gun and a cartridge of "high pressure, high temp" grease and pumped about 90 pumps into the fill hole. Then I finished filling up with the correct 89W-90 gear oil. I drove it afterward and it sounds quieter and shifts fine. I looked under the car this morning and little or no leak! Prior to this "treatment" it would leave a 6+ inch puddle overnight. What do you other Hack's or anti-Hack's predict will happen next?
Another great trick is to squirt [both tubes of] J.B.-weld into it without mixing, along with a handfull of sawdust, then top off with gear oil. After you fill it, drive tyhe car for about 15 miles to get the gears up to temp and the JB weld mixed up nicely, them park it overnight. The JB and sawdust will form a wonderfull sealant, and will also thicken the oil so the trans will shift smooth and will last a looooong time What do I really think? I think this thread is gonna go down the And your gonna get I also think you guys need to bow down before me, because I'm the popcorn master! So there...
We used to do that to pumps where I used to work when they started rattling. They would run another 6-8 months, but when they quit, there was nothing worth slavaging from them!!
I pumped a couple of tubes of grease into a $10.00 saginaw 4 speed that was noisy. I had it in a 69 chevy pick up daily driver. drove it that way for a year or so,then sold it. I never heard any bitching from the buyer,so it must have held up for a while.
There's just a handfull of gaskets and the yoke seal that could cause one of these things to leak or am I missing something.
You're missing something big time. The countershaft is a press fit through both ends of the case. The holes in the aluminum case become enlarged. The holes are well below the fill line so the fluid leaks out just sitting still. I didn't know this until this happened to mine. The only correct fix is a new case, or machine the bad case oversize and fit bushings. I'm curious how long it will run this way.
You canstop that leak without buying a case. Pull it out and grind a slot across the shaft and case. Glue a pin in it and seal it all up and stab it back in. Now thats hackin it.
Why don't you just take it out and repair it properly? Please don't ruin it, parts are cheap, they are easy to rebuild. I don't understand people like you.
If the countergear shaft bores are that bad, it's just a matter of time before you take out a gear. At the very least with all that grease in there, those four rows of needle bearings are probably going to weld themselves together with the countergear (cluster) and the countergear shaft due to a lack of lubrication, resulting in some VERY BIG holes in the case. With the price of Muncie parts these days, I'd think it was time to park the rig or easter egg something else in there. Either find another case, or find someone capable of re-bushing that case (not everyone can do it because the tolerances have to be held so close). I'd replace anything else in there you find questionable, too. At the very least you're going to need a gasket set and a small parts kit. I have racked a lot of not very kind miles on these transmissions and had to rebuild more than my fair share, and even now have a "couple" laying around. I even exploded a front driveline yoke once and blew the tailshaft right off one (that was one of those three transmission weekends). Not to brag, but my brother used to say he knew when I was having good night because it sounded like I was driving an automatic. I can assure you the days of 22 dollar complete syncros (including brass rings) are long gone, along with cheap prices for anything else that has to do with that transmission. Do yourself a favor and get it rebuilt before it disintegrates or blows up.
back in the day when i was running 4-speeds having a backup HD. 3spd complete with linkage put away saved me when i hammered my muncie into rebuild stage. sure was nice to be out cruising and by changing the hurst shift handle nobody even knew. gave you some time to get your transmission rebuilt correctly.
Funny you should mention... I got a 3 spd in a box with the car. But it is sure no HD and is a non-synchro 1rst gear. I don't think I'll bother stickin it in.
okay so i read this post - ran out & jumped into my car with a M-21 ran down & bought 2 packs of 'KWIK JB-weld. came home started cutting up some good 2x4s got a couple good sized piles of saw dust, squeezed both packs of JB weld (4 tubes) into trans , got all the sawdust pushed into trans. i got in the car & raced around the block 1/2 dozen times going through all 4 gears & reverse parked in driveway, came back in here & read somemore for awhile, went back out & my shifter was stuck. i started the car let out the clutch & engine killed. shifter wont move. (shouldnt use 2 packs JB weld or what?) hmmmmmmmmm got out a come-a-long hooked it to shifter & then into braces in the trunk & started ratcheting to get shifter loose. i had a BUNCH of pressure on the shifter & it wouldnt move but then the new hurst shift lever broke off flipped around in the car & finally bounced off my head then went out through the windshield. (i cant find it maybe next time i mow ill find it?! it had a new 60.00 knob on it too.) if i could cut the knob off my head from the shifter it would make a neat shift knob! AND almost knocked me out! so then i decided to see what gear the trans was in. maybe 3rd & i could still get to work tomorrow im geared low so i could leave it in 3rd. got in wound er up dumped the clutch, "KA-FOOOOOKEN-BANG!!" shit exploded all over hell! all thats left is the input shaft hanging out of the engine! my trans hump in floor is all bent to hell also! THE TRANS IS GONE! ENGINE DROPPED DOWN IN THE BACK & SNAPPED DISTRIBUTOR OFF TOO! ---------------- what went wrong? did i use 1 to many tubes of JB-weld? -- i had only a little trans leak now my cement driveway is black with sweet smelling gear lube. - dogs & cats are over lickin it up & shit! -------?????????????????
rebuild kits for saginaw 3 speeds about $100 from year one last i checked, they work fine for just driving. for muncie check out http://www.wrightconnection.net/ what muncie you have? know of a few guys who horde the old muncie stuff and should be able to find a case for you. dont push the trans when you drive it like that, things go south in a hurry when parts start seizing in an aluminum case. the grease is too thick to cool the trans and also cant get into tight areas (bushings and needle bearings).
dude, you need to drive it more than 5-10 minutes. You need to warm that new "witches brew" you injected in there to see if its gonna leak or grenade. I know this thread question is bullshit and youre just trying to see what kind of funny responses youll get. Who the hell thinks a quick fix cures a major leak?? Do yourself a favor and rebuild it if your serious.
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