Ok have been reading up alot on rust treatment. I am going with media blasting. Everyone says if you dont know what your doing get someone who knows how or you will get warpage. Well I am here to find out how. Aside from practise what are the tricks? I have figured out that the type of media is a factor. What about distance, nozzle size, PSI or anything you Old Heads know I am hear to learn.
search for some sand thats purple i cant remember what its call im thinkin its called purple blast anyway it doesnt warp the metal at all from 1'' to 6'' want warp......its a little more expensive than the others but you want have to fix warped metal .. as far as to strip the paint to bare metal ..you are gonna have to test spots to see for yourself ..thats why it important to use the good stuff so you dont have to worry warpage being to close
Someone around here was telling me about a Carbon Black stuff that can be used thats a byproduct from a coke place anyone heard of this?
I think it's called "Black Magic" and should be available from industrial supply houses, at least that's where I get it. It's pretty aggresive stuff. I use it for heavily rusted parts. As far as blasting sheet metal and preventing warpage, I keep the air pressure low (around 60-70 psi) and never , NEVER hold the nozzle at one place - keep it moving over a wide area. The medium hitting the metal creates heat that is responsible for warping the metal. Keep the nozzle moving and let the metal maintain a 'normal' temperature, as much as possible.
there is also soda blasting, fairly new. it uses "baking soda". it wont warp the metal and is supposed to not damage glass chrome rubber etc. so from what ive heard there is no need to remove panels from the vehicle. eastwood has been pushing their unit lately, ive never done it myself though so dont qoute me on it.
thanks for the correction tman. i misinterpreted the following on a website: Another major advantage of soda blasting is that it does not break down the surface tension of metals, thus the problem of flash rusting is eliminated. Sodium bicarbonate can act as a rust inhibitor, which will leave a protective coating on the surface being cleaned. This allows for time to pass before the surface has to be painted. This is unlike a sand blasted surface that must be painted immediately. When the time arrives to paint the surface, the protective coating (soda) can be removed by an application of a vinegar/water mixture
Black Beauty is what is used around here.Byproduct of slag.I use the extra fine when available or fine if not.Blasted my whole 57 wagon with it,frame to roof.Got some experience with blasting but certainly not a pro. Ditto to what the other guys said.Don't go crazy with pressure,use as fine a grit you can get,keep it moving,give yourself a little extra distance with sheet metal and what I found to be a must,keep a 45 degree angle or even more in certain circumstances like delicate areas. I blasted the roof of my 57 wagon and it came out great.If that did not warp,then I guess I did it right,clod that I am.
My memory can challenge me at times, but if it serves me correctly at this time. I believe that media blasting is more than just changing the cutting material in your sandblasting equipment. We use a service to remove paint from plastic bumper covers from time to time and the equipment they are using is specially designed for the plastic media . The main difference is that it is a low pressure hi volume set up . Kind of like the difference between an old pressure feed and a new lvlp spray gun. You can probably get things done by changing media but the time to complete may be longer.
Black beauty Is the stuff...keep the tip moving and do not turn down your pressure...guage it with distance. First time blasting wasn't that long ago (2 years)and learned alot in a very short period of time. Those lessons still hold true. Watch the material being removed and watch the color of the skin of the metal. Trust me it will look like you have a lazer from a scope on it if your too close. Just my .02. Fitysix
What sort of blasting rig are you using? I've got a 16 cfm compressor and a little hand held gun, its always been pretty painful to use. I think its time to upgrade.
Great info guys! Thx blasted I think I am going to go with your method it sounds the safest "for me and the car" I will post pics as I go.
If you have a good blaster and enough air, always keep your gun on a angle. I kinda dust the area,go to different areas, and keep the gun moving. Most of all you have to have patience, and take it off a layer at a time instead of all at once. Make sure your only blasting metal, instead of paint , undercoating , lead, etc. THat will mean less time blasting and that cuts down the chance of warpage.
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