OK... I am still trying to get this friggen car started but, I am killing the battery rather quickly so, here is my question. What are the consequences of hooking up a 12V battery so I can get more cranking power? I already know that, at least for a short time, the starter can handle it. I won't be turning on any lights so bulbs are not a problem. Anything else I should be aware of? Sorry.. 1949 Caddy with the factory 6V system
Hey Southdiver1...you're at it again. good deal. The 12V battery is fine for the starter...but not for your gauges. What engine are you trying to start now? I thought the original was taken out? Let me know if you are planning on doing a 12v conversion...Just did one on my Dodge and it worked out great. Tim MBL
Every time I get ready to take it out, someone else comes around with "let me try something". This time it was uncle Jack. He is one hell of a mechanic and he was pretty sure that he could get it running. He started by fixing my screwed up spark plug order (I had it perfectly wrong) and he reset my points gap (I was pretty close) Still turning over strong but just not grabbing. He thinks that (as many others on this board think) that I could have valves stuck open and that if we can just get a few cylanders to grab and fire, it might "rattle" the rest of them. Also interesting to note is that it did give a pretty big backfire and it smelled EXACTLY like gunpowder. That sulfer smell... Anything important with that observation? Uncle Jack did not smell it.
Ha! good to hear. I like to old engines. If your plugs are right now...we're getting somewhere. This may sound stupid...but have you ever taken the intake of this thing off? What I would do...is take off the intake and valley pan...and keep the valve covers off too. have someone turn it over and watch each cyl and see what you have going on. See if the valves are dropping and closing completely. See if you are getting compression. Then check to see if you have a rats nest in the intake. I am serious. The critters get in there and who knows what they might have drug in. You might be smelling that. Tim MBL
The easy button says; remove the rocker covers, and with a hammer handle, try to move all the valves that are closed, and mark them with chalk. If they open and close, turn the engine one revolution, and try to open the ones not yet tried. If one or more are stuck, that is your problem. If a motor has compression, fuel, and ignition, it will run.
Did you take the distributor out? If so, you may have put it in 180 degrees off. Are you getting spark to the plugs? To the coil, out of the coil? Check the wires inside the distributor - make sure they are not grounded
Think about putting an 8volt tractor battery in it. (Most larger battery supply houses will have one, and they are not very expensive!!!) It will crank better, and you will not have to put resistors on your guages. Also go to your welding supply and get some large guage welding cable to replace your old battery cables with. Bigger is better of course. The welding supply should also have some crimp on fittings with an eye for your starter post and a ground connection to the frame. Use regular clamp on style terminal connectors at the battery posts. With the motor running, put a voltmeter on the battery with neg on neg, and pos on pos, and adjust your regulator until the voltmeter reads at least 9volts, so you can maintain the 8volt charge. Your generator is putting out a little more that this probably. This setup is pretty old school, but works great and is a quick conversion to better, quicker starting. I have done it many times.
The 8 volt is a way to go...but there were several things that detered me from it when I did my 55 Dodge. For one, I did some tests with varied voltages and found that the guages will read differently (most important the fuel gauge) in my case since I like to run out of gas. Also, if you change to 12V, you have the choice to put in a Pertronix ignition system, which I have...and you can put in a CD player...cool for cruisers if well hidden. The total conversion to 12V is really not hard...I would definitely take the advice of veeeight on the thicker wires..and the 8 volt if you want to give it a go...if you want to go all 12 and need some suggestions, let me know. Tim MBL
I never took the dist out. We also made sure that it was pointing to # 1 at TDC and the timing mark was good. All plugs are getting spark. There was one explsed wire in the disb but, I replaced it with a good one. Currently my 6V is at full charge (this morning) and I went to crank it and it is stil lturning pretty slow. My problem is, I don't know what is normal for a 6V system. Anyway, I am going to disconnect all gauges this weekend and put in a borrowed 12V battery. If it starts, then I will absolutly do the conversion to a full 12V system. Hey MLB, maybe I will take a trip up to see you and we can do it on the left coast?
6 Volts can turn slowly...truth be known, this is mostly due to bad grounds and dirty connections...BUT, the 6V at its best will never turn like the 12v. I have driven both as everyday drivers. I'm all for helping for the conversion. Before we start, we should talk about all the parts you need, Tim MBL
When I was a kid, I had a 54 Customline with a 292 out of a merc in the car. We had a terrible starting problem. We tried an 8 volt which was just a 12 volt battery with a new positive terminal..played hell with my 6 volt lights but they were bright as hell. My dad went to the local battery place and bought a battery that was start on 12, run on 6. It had a gizmo on top of the battery that looked like a spider. It worked great.
I'm with Ole Don. Take the rocker covers off and check for stuck valves by bump rotating the engine and pushing on the stems with a hammer handle. Check the springs closely too. You might fry your 6V coil with the 12V battery. If you do decide to convert your car to 12V get a copy of Speedway's guide to12V conversions for about 10 bucks. I used it on my 50 Ford and had no problems at all. I suggest using an alternator instead of a rewired generator as the booklet recommends.
I had the same question.... I want to start my flathead (no gauges, no light, just engine). it has the original 6 volt distributor but to do the firing test I only have a 12V battery and coil. I don't want to run the car like this, it is just to see if the engine start. What is the risk??? Is it OK to do this way or should I use a resistor between the coil and distributor???
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