well, as a painter, I have to say it's a way better idea than putting on an expensive paint job, then wet sanding through it for the whole rat rod theme. but I can paint a car with single layer acrylic urethane for 90.00 a gallon and thin it for 20.00 a gallon and harden it for 44.00 a gallon. so, even if I have to buy everything, which I normally have reducer and hardener left over from previous jobs, I've only got 150.00 and my time, which is very scarce. alot of pro shops are using single layer on all types of repairs. It blends well, you don't have the extra clearing step to do, but you can put clear over it if you want. and you can't beat the colors. pretty much every color except heavy metallics, but you can add flake to them. just don't run em' or you'll almost have to repaint to avoid sanding marks. on the other hand, I have had really great results with tractor supply company's line of tractor enamels. 20 bucks a gallon, about 6 bucks for high flash naptha to thin it and 8 bucks for hardener. I swear by the "low gloss black" and the "new holland red". my two personal favorites. they spray well and are very forgiving. I painted my old 52 chevy outside my ex wife's house and had the drunken neighbor guy come put his hand on the fender about 5 minutes after i finished. he freaked, but i just wiped it down with a little thinner and resprayed that part. you couldn't even tell. good luck. d.d.t.
I think another reason is I have noticed alot of do it yourselfers do have a compressor and I have a compressor and all the painting equipment but the main pain in the ass is a place to paint I dont own a garage big enough to manuaver around my car and its got no windows so its really dusty with the 50$ paint job you can just paint it and if shit gets in the paint it sands out and if not its only 50$
This seems like a great idea for keeping the city from harrasing you about parts and project cars that are kept around the house . $50 to make the junker look nice from 20 feet is a lot cheaper than car covers or paying off site storage. I think it's pretty cool myself.
There's very little if any UV protection in rust-preventative coatings. They're also meant to be re-coated on occasion as needed with the same mat'l base. Most automotive grade mat'ls will fisheye when applied over rust paints. Even cheap refinish auto kits have left out the full measure of UV protection. It's one of the more costly additives. Given the application and the need to save on a less than desirable car, well, OK. But for all the time and effort put into even the beater style rides a good finish is always a good investment and gives your ride it's due. Suppose you need to get rid of it some day...what's it worth? Or do ya just not tell what's been done? While kool on the surface (no pun intended), the faults are many. My rides have always deserved more than a tractor paint job.
I am going to paint rustoleum on my parts car / driver , just to keep the sheetmetal from rusting anymore than it has. I'm not going to thin it much , just enough to let the brush and roller marks to flow out alittle bit. So when you see my 65 electra at the cinematic "don't think of me as hack"
I am tempted to try it on the 49'...since the bodywork is going to be an ongoing thing and it would be nice if it was one color that could be recoated as the bodywork is done.
I was reading a thing on an old hot rod and it said the painter brushed on enamel? heated on a woodstove nice looking car in the photos
I had a guy spray one of mine with True-Value Rust-X oil base a while back and it looks okay.. had it had the right prep, it would look decent, but this was just a let's slow the rust down deal, since it had no paint left at all. Which is the other thing, it just sits there, it's not driven. But still it looks pretty good for the paint job that it is. I don't see where the rust has broken through it anywhere, at any rate. So fast forward to this week, I got sick of the rust spots on my beater Suburban, so I spent the last couple days grinding them off, priming it with Rustoleum rusty metal primer. Then some high build auto primer (and some cheap ass grey spray primer over the yellow paint between the rust spots), and rollered out what was left of the Rust-X on it. I figure I'll see how well it holds up there... I think I broke about every rule there is for painting a car. And somewhere there is a damn cottonwood tree around here, because a breeze picked up while I was doing it and I have some of that shit rolled into the paint. But it does look a little bit better than it did. 1/3 or so of a gallon gave me enough to coat both sides and the back up to the windows.. and it had sat so long it had a skin on the top of it. Was that or flat white.. I figured the white would look like hell again that much faster, even though it was a full new gallon and I probably could have put 4 coats of it on. Rust-X is apparently tintable, I've seen tintable base in the oil base cans, and the tint cards have some lime greens and different purples and things. I'm thinking I'll see if they'll mix me a quart tinted to match my yellow and do the upper parts of it with that. Now the truck looks like I should have a Dale Earnhardt Wranger car on a trailer behind it.. I'm just going to add that now that it's pretty well dry, I took a look at it, and it's not all that bad except for the cottonwood tree crap in it. I have to think that if I layed on 2 or 3 coats and it had been a little thinner, it would even out enough as it dried you could sand it out with some fine paper and clear it or polish it and it would look as good as everyday driver bodyshop work - maybe better, given the last couple partial paint jobs I've seen done on the familys cars (one had this weird sunken spot in the clear the size of a half dollar on the hood.. looks like one of the spots on mine where I ground the rust off it).
Interesting topic Ryan. We painted my buddy's Rambler once, with a roller. More for a joke. After we finished, if I was paid by the hour. I'd be rich. Lots of work. You still have to tape it and brush work in the tight areas. Looked OK, not great. Billy Johnson from Texas, painted his 50 Ford coupe White. He used a different method. He used a Power Puff, like the gals use. I said a powder puff? It looked Great. Enamel paint that flowed well. He was ahead of his time. You can buy those flat paint pads at the hardware store. I can see how it would work. I saw a cartoon in a magazine a long time ago, about painting. A sign on the Body shop "Cars painted $10.00" Two guys were walking around the corner of the body shop. Asking this question? How does Ace, paint cars so Cheap? Showing Ace in the shop. A car in front of him, he has a large bucket of paint & a large floor fan. He is in motion, throwing the paint in front of fan. One of the best, I never forgot it. Painting. If it works. It works
I just finished doing this myself in my driveway. But I ued a whole different method. I used a foam brush instead of a roller, and I did not sand and polish the final coat. Nor did I sand between coats. The use of the brush helps to eliminate the need to sand almost at all. The final result is awesome, see: If you wanna see what I did, I have a complete write up here: http://www.stylusscustoms.com/poormanspaintjob.html
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This looks like FNG one poster spam to me. NOBODY can paint a car with a brush and not expect to sand it unless you want the textured look. Might as well put some spackle on it.
Not spam gentlemen. I assure you that I painted the car in the photo with a foam brush and some Rustoleum thinned with Mineral Spirits... and I only sanded the car 2wice throughout the process, once prior to paint, and again after the thirs coat of 6 total.
for anyone that doesn't know about it yet Duplicolor now has a paint line called Body Shop Series gallon cans of paint ready to spray colors are limited but each gallon goes for 80$ and they have primers and basecoat/clearcoat as well as single stage all for 80$ each check out their web site
My O/T 79 olds wagon is sitting at work in the shop, waiting for the attack of the sponge rollers! If the rain stops this week and the termites don't swarm that much, I snap some pics in progress. On second thought come on termites I need the money!
I know this is an old thread, but some time is passed and would like to hear from any on here that might have tried it and how it held up? I have heard that the paint is very very slow to dry?
For fun I did a camper shell for my truck, first time came out terrible, then I went to a 50/50 mix of paint and laquer thinner and a cupful of Japan dryer and it dried fast and looked presentable and sprayed nicely. been on for about 3 years so far. still good but this is not an automobile.
my local Atwoods sells gallon buckets of John Deere green and International white and reds for like $60 each. a co-worker used the green to coat a circa 1983 Dodge 1/2 ton with silver vehicle syndrome. it covered good and came out with that semi-flat finish that the mouse rodders are so fond of. never thought about trying to sand on it.
I tried this on my truck because it had a terrible paint job and I had no money. I now have an even worse paint job over a really terrible paint job..and I worked way to hard to get it that way. I'm not saying it cant be done...but you're a better man than me if you can make it look nice.
last winter i repaired a fiberglass front panel on a john deere gator(amt) and painted with hardware store green enamel.using a foam roller,it looked horrible.sanded it and re rolled it with a nap roller i washed in solvent,blew dry,and ran it over sticky side of duct tape to pull all the fuzzies out.4 coats and a light scuffing between. i didnt buff it,and it turned out suprizinly nice.a whole summer of park maintenance and only a couple light scuffs. if i could get my hands on sunburst orange,i would roll my O/T Power Wagon.
hres mine done 4 weeks ago well see how it holds up to a michigan winter this thing is a driver 3 qts rusteolum at 8.99 1 gal acetone 17.99 thined 15% per instructions on can
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