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Storing engine blocks and components?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kcolborne, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. kcolborne
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 26

    kcolborne
    Member

    I lucked out and bought a garage full of flathead motors and assorted parts. I ended up with some good blocks, cranks, cams, heads, etc. The whole lot has been disassembled and inspected. One of the motors I am being to rebuid now, the others I want to set aside for future projects. What is the best way to store the parts to avoid the effects of time (rust)?

    I'm thinking of oiling or greasing the parts and wrapping them in plastic before putting them on the shelf. Is this the right idea?
     
  2. Boynamedsue
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 238

    Boynamedsue
    Member

    clean them first and dirt or debris can cause them to rust. spray them with penetrating oil something that isnt water based like some of them are. let them dry for a little while then cover them with plastic or something will keep dust and dirt off of them.
     
  3. Katula
    Joined: Oct 6, 2006
    Posts: 118

    Katula
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    yeah, oil and bag then throw in a some silica packets to grab any moisture that comes from the relative humidity. And how exactly did you fall into a whole garage full of parts and blocks?
     
  4. kcolborne
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 26

    kcolborne
    Member

    I found them on the HAMB actually. Worked out well for me.

    Any idea where I can buy silica packets?
     

  5. HEATHEN
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 8,558

    HEATHEN
    Member
    from SIDNEY, NY

    Castle Products markets a protective spray called Endura. It doesn't evaporate like WD-40 will.
     
  6. ChevyGirlRox
    Joined: May 13, 2005
    Posts: 3,491

    ChevyGirlRox
    Member
    from Ohio

    They come in every pair of shoes and nearly every purse or bag, ask your mom or girlfriend! If they don't have any, raid the local shoe store!

    If you don't like any of the above ideas on getting silica packets, it looks like good old ebay comes through again:
    http://search.ebay.com/silica-packe...Q20packetsQQmptZ1196693119093QQrprZ8QQxpufuZx

    An easy way to store those blocks are on cut off shopping carts. Cut the basket off the cart and set the block on the wire shelf below. Voila! Instant rolling storage. Plus you can use the wire baskets to store additional parts.

    Congrats on your find!
     
  7. revkev6
    Joined: Jun 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,352

    revkev6
    Member
    from ma

  8. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

  9. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

  10. banjorear
    Joined: Jul 30, 2004
    Posts: 4,479

    banjorear
    Member

    I've had great success with CRC SP-350 or the heavier version of SP-400. It is a modern day cosmoline. Their own brand of degreaser removes the coating.

    Designed for long term storage of freshly machined parts. It will work on any greasy old Ford part as well.
     
  11. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    Try a spray can of dirt bike chain lube. It sticks to anything.
     
  12. kcolborne
    Joined: Jan 10, 2006
    Posts: 26

    kcolborne
    Member


    True, but I might want to get the stuff back off at some point. Memories of my dirtbike days seem to be that stuff is a real pain at times.
     
  13. Louie S.
    Joined: Apr 18, 2007
    Posts: 644

    Louie S.
    Member

    I have two big blocks one has been siiting for over a year with fresh machine work, and we just spray them down with LPS 3. It sprays on and does not evaporate, it leaves a good film works great.
     
  14. MN Falcon
    Joined: May 21, 2007
    Posts: 566

    MN Falcon
    Member

    I was talking with my uncle about this type of thing also with my flatties. He suggested that after I get them cleaned and magged that I drop them into a plastic 55 gal drum cut down to fit the motor, then fill them with used motor oil and cover.
     
  15. jaysberman
    Joined: Dec 15, 2004
    Posts: 97

    jaysberman
    Member

    You can spray them with Boshield( I thint that the spelling). It leaves a waxy surface that protects well and is easy to take off. Use it arround boats to keep the salt off the electrical connections.
     
  16. Graham08
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 146

    Graham08
    Member

    Another vote for LPS 3. My dad works in a salt mine and they use it as a rust preventative. Leaves a nice film and is reasonably easy to remove with brake clean.
     
  17. 62_Galaxie_500
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 116

    62_Galaxie_500
    Member

    I've had good luck with Amsoil's MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector. It dries to a very light brown waxy film. Plus, it doesn't hurt paint, so it's good for coating door seams and such.

    EDIT: Another idea is to put the parts/blocks into a 55 gallon drum and fill it with used oil to cover them.
     
  18. Rusty Springs
    Joined: Dec 3, 2007
    Posts: 54

    Rusty Springs
    Member
    from SouthTexas

    You took the words from my mouth.

    LPS products are great:

    LPS 1 is like wd-40
    LPS 2 is a little thicker
    LPS 3 is real thick, sprays on wet and drys like a coating of grease.

    I have be using it for 20 or so years. Great on garage door opener tracks and any other SLIDEs.

    Rusty Springs
     
  19. Should you stand the cranks on end to keep them from warping?
     
  20. Devin
    Joined: Dec 28, 2004
    Posts: 2,369

    Devin
    Member
    from Napa, CA

    Go to your local hardware store, they sell granules that will dehumidify an area. The small silica packets are too small fo a large volume of air.
     
  21. NJVadala
    Joined: Oct 11, 2007
    Posts: 179

    NJVadala
    Member

    As far as blocks and heads go, I clean them off, spray them with penetrating oil, bag them, spray the bag with penetrating oil, and then wrap the bag with saran wrap.
     
  22. 29 sedanman
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 2,282

    29 sedanman
    Member
    from Indy

    I also support the LPS 3.

    I Inspect allot of fresh machined aircraft parts and afterwords I usually required to coat them with LPS3. It is actually approved by the Millitary standards specifications for storing of hardware.

    Millitary standards MIL-c-16173-2
    Sikorsky satandard SS8540
     
  23. FredK
    Joined: Feb 13, 2006
    Posts: 205

    FredK
    Member Emeritus

  24. Alll this talk about protecting.................ever notice how many engine guys just let em sit? Dave Rampy even "seasoned" his blocks out back of his shop. Look at a pic of H&H, yard full of banger and flatty blocks.
     
  25. 34toddster
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 1,482

    34toddster
    Member
    from Missouri

    I second that vote for LPS I bought a crank that was turned in 1987 and sprayed with LPS, I just cleaned it up last weekend and installed it,still looks like it did after it was turned. LPS is a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for.
     

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