I lucked out and bought a garage full of flathead motors and assorted parts. I ended up with some good blocks, cranks, cams, heads, etc. The whole lot has been disassembled and inspected. One of the motors I am being to rebuid now, the others I want to set aside for future projects. What is the best way to store the parts to avoid the effects of time (rust)? I'm thinking of oiling or greasing the parts and wrapping them in plastic before putting them on the shelf. Is this the right idea?
clean them first and dirt or debris can cause them to rust. spray them with penetrating oil something that isnt water based like some of them are. let them dry for a little while then cover them with plastic or something will keep dust and dirt off of them.
yeah, oil and bag then throw in a some silica packets to grab any moisture that comes from the relative humidity. And how exactly did you fall into a whole garage full of parts and blocks?
They come in every pair of shoes and nearly every purse or bag, ask your mom or girlfriend! If they don't have any, raid the local shoe store! If you don't like any of the above ideas on getting silica packets, it looks like good old ebay comes through again: http://search.ebay.com/silica-packe...Q20packetsQQmptZ1196693119093QQrprZ8QQxpufuZx An easy way to store those blocks are on cut off shopping carts. Cut the basket off the cart and set the block on the wire shelf below. Voila! Instant rolling storage. Plus you can use the wire baskets to store additional parts. Congrats on your find!
you might find this interesting: http://web.mit.edu/charvak/www/Science/Corrosion/corrosion.html btw, if you use the crc marine rust inhibitor, it is a HAMB friendly product. Made by Sta-Lube
I've had great success with CRC SP-350 or the heavier version of SP-400. It is a modern day cosmoline. Their own brand of degreaser removes the coating. Designed for long term storage of freshly machined parts. It will work on any greasy old Ford part as well.
True, but I might want to get the stuff back off at some point. Memories of my dirtbike days seem to be that stuff is a real pain at times.
I have two big blocks one has been siiting for over a year with fresh machine work, and we just spray them down with LPS 3. It sprays on and does not evaporate, it leaves a good film works great.
I was talking with my uncle about this type of thing also with my flatties. He suggested that after I get them cleaned and magged that I drop them into a plastic 55 gal drum cut down to fit the motor, then fill them with used motor oil and cover.
You can spray them with Boshield( I thint that the spelling). It leaves a waxy surface that protects well and is easy to take off. Use it arround boats to keep the salt off the electrical connections.
Another vote for LPS 3. My dad works in a salt mine and they use it as a rust preventative. Leaves a nice film and is reasonably easy to remove with brake clean.
I've had good luck with Amsoil's MP Heavy Duty Metal Protector. It dries to a very light brown waxy film. Plus, it doesn't hurt paint, so it's good for coating door seams and such. EDIT: Another idea is to put the parts/blocks into a 55 gallon drum and fill it with used oil to cover them.
You took the words from my mouth. LPS products are great: LPS 1 is like wd-40 LPS 2 is a little thicker LPS 3 is real thick, sprays on wet and drys like a coating of grease. I have be using it for 20 or so years. Great on garage door opener tracks and any other SLIDEs. Rusty Springs
Go to your local hardware store, they sell granules that will dehumidify an area. The small silica packets are too small fo a large volume of air.
As far as blocks and heads go, I clean them off, spray them with penetrating oil, bag them, spray the bag with penetrating oil, and then wrap the bag with saran wrap.
I also support the LPS 3. I Inspect allot of fresh machined aircraft parts and afterwords I usually required to coat them with LPS3. It is actually approved by the Millitary standards specifications for storing of hardware. Millitary standards MIL-c-16173-2 Sikorsky satandard SS8540
"Here IS the original military spec Cosmoline." http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1134
Alll this talk about protecting.................ever notice how many engine guys just let em sit? Dave Rampy even "seasoned" his blocks out back of his shop. Look at a pic of H&H, yard full of banger and flatty blocks.
I second that vote for LPS I bought a crank that was turned in 1987 and sprayed with LPS, I just cleaned it up last weekend and installed it,still looks like it did after it was turned. LPS is a bit pricey, but you get what you pay for.