What parts are needed to get an SBC to run...or any engine for that matter? So, far all I have is the block, heads, and intake.... Help this dumass out! Thanks
Lift the hood on one that runs. See all those pulleys, belts, linkages, manifolds, etc., etc.? You need them.
Pistons, rings, camshaft, lifters, pushrods, bearings, carb, distributor, coil, plugs, plug wires, core plugs, water pump, oil pump, oil pump pushrod, harmonic balancer, various bolts, gasket set. I know that I'm forgetting something.
Go to a big book store and pick up a copy of '' How to rebuild your Small Block Chevy''..........plenty of pics to show you the rest of the ingredients required...Littleman
Also, you really need someone local who knows his way around a chevy and maybe has some odd parts lying idle...your info needs are beyond easy written answers! That book, by Vizard, is a really excellent one covering a LOT of basics on setup and startup in very clearl language.
block, pistons, rings, rods, crank shaft, bearings, oil pump, pickup tube, oil pan, heads, valve covers, rocker arms, valves, pushrods, lifters, cam shaft, distributor, cap, rotor, points, spark plug wires, spark plugs, exhaust manifolds, pulleys, balancer, timing belt or chain, timing cover, belts, hoses, radiator, water pump, thermostat and housing, starter, battery, a ton of bolts and gaskets....and gas!!! did I forget anything?
Yes. Air. And if air is needed, then gravity as well. Cuz man could that be frustrating working without that shit.
Maybe you should start with a "visible V-8" model kit! http://boxwrench.3dcartstores.com/The-Visible-V8-Engine-Kit_p_0-19.html Instruction sheet here: http://www.richardlowe.com/hobbies/models/1999-01-01-Visible-V8-Model-Kit/index.htm
<BR> valve springs, and dont for get the tools required for this assembly. not exactly something you can do with your girlfirends pink tool kit
get a '72 Ford Maverick or any late '70s chevy with an inline six or V8 and keep that runnin' before you even SAY "model A".
Really everything there is for a reason,about the only thing you can do without is power steering pump or A/C compressor,you can start an engine without a waterpump,valvecovers or exaust manifolds but just for a minute.
The best thing to do is like one of the others had said. Just buy How To Build a Small Blockk Chevy..
about 8 good strong legs will make any sbc run like crazy, ok so i remember asking someone what way wheel nuts went on, pointy side in or out.
Call Boyd between the two of you you'll figure it out ....... well maybe not But if he can find the bill's from the last 'Build'' that's a start GERM? Where the fuck is GERM?
We all started somewhere. I had old high school shop books and the old clymers/chiltons for my cars and learned from there. High school shop class helped, and I got a job at 15 working with semi-trailers and watching a drag racer maintain his sportsman rail. Soak it all in and ask plenty of questions, and read read read! I still have the 1st 350 I rebuilt. that was 13 years ago. Wow.
For your first assembly of any machine, it's best to start with a complete one. Take it apart. Put it back together. You'll see where all the shit goes as you go. Don't throw anything away until it's working again.
On a relatively serious note, three comments. 1) Buy the Vizard book....it will save you a ton of frustration. Even going to the library & studying the Chevy engine section in a '70 shop manual will help...photocopy if needed. 2) You are dealing with the SBC, the most common automotive engine on the planet. For you to scrounge up all this stuff....EVEN if you plan on a complete rebuild, or performance stuff...will be very costly. Go to a local salvage yard and buy a COMPLETE running 350 out of a car, with the brackets, bolts, covers, etc. Even if you want to rebuild an engine for the experience...or, you plan on replacing lots of stuff for looks/perf.......you will still get invaluable knowledge out of seeing it intact, & then tearing it down. plus it will be cheaper in the long run. Complete 350s are often only $100, sometimes less...possibly not including the alternator & starter. Sometimes the "U-Pull" yards will do 1/2 price days...$50. Worth the experience.....disconnecting it, making mistakes, seeing what's attached to what... Edit: I'd look for one from around '69 to '72-'73, if it's possible...generally better heads than later on, the more compact (narrower) long pump & acc. drive system...but it's not that big a deal. You may elect to use some of your existing parts if they're suitable, & that's fine too. 3) Consider a basic QUALITY rebuild kit...don't use junk that will last 10,000 miles. Take a kit something like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partd...5~311 or FEM~CSMHP760~311&Ntk=&rsview=sku&Ns= & add a MILD cam/lifter kit, a valvespring kit, timing set, Edelbrock Performer & 500-600 cfm carb of your choice, & you're good to go for quite a while. You could use the original intake/carb at first to save $$ if it's an issue. Good luck. P.S. A crate engine might be a better option, depending on what you want to do and your patience level. However, if you want to do this yourself, there are a few things to consider while you are doing it...your expectations; what it's going to be used in; mileage; & so on. It's the total combination that counts, not just the engine. Also remember, once you have a plan that seems good, hopefully approved by someone who knows the SBC well, stick to it! Don't start changing things in mid-project ("well, maybe I'll go up to a bigger cam..."). This is a sure way to end up with a pile of mismatched parts, an engine that runs like crap, with poor mileage to boot.
Farmcal- Go to D & A enginering in your town and ask Bob to show you a dissasembled engine. Maybe he's hiering a shop helper.
buy a running one in a wreaked car for cheep start it up and pull stuff off till it dont run no more, soon youll be left with just the stuff ya need ha ha
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