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Pics of my new ride...49 Chrysler

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by CWebster, Nov 20, 2007.

  1. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Finally got a chance to post up some pics of my new ride. 1949 Chrysler Windsor Silver Anniversary edition. Picked it up here locally. I had been driving by it for about 6 months and I always rubber necked at it until I finally decided I needed to check it out. Well, once I got up close and saw the completeness of the car and the great condition it was in, and heard the price....I had to have it. Soooo two days later I drove it up on a trailer and took 'er home. Since then I've scoured (I think) every thread, post, vague reference, etc. to these cars and I am very happy with my choice. I've got lots of questions about some of the mechanicals and stuff, but my first request would be some opinions on color and stance. The paint has the cracked eggshell look to it and will need to be addressed soon, and I like to get it a little lower to the ground. I'm torn between maintaining the original (I think?) paint scheme and going to a solid color...like a pearled silver. I'll have more questions to follow, but I appreciate any comments/opinions.:D
     

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  2. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    that's a classy lookin lady...
     
  3. BEBO
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 101

    BEBO
    Member
    from LUFKIN, TX

    it looks sweet like it is, but lower is nice. i like the color, if you go solid the dark gray would look nice. just my opinion.
     
  4. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    this is what I'd do... and drive the heck out of it!
     

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  5. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Thanks, I agree with the classy....that's why I'm kinda torn with what to do. Oh yeah, Chrysler Spitfire 6, Fluid Drive...which I plan to keep and hopefully get a split intake/exhaust manifold put on it. I've learned a lot from member "blueskies" posts and website. I hope my final product can come out as well as his did.
     
  6. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI


    Yes, definitely lower. I did the old scissors and tape "photochop" and it really looks good closer to the ground. Any suggestions on a cheap, reliable lowering? It's gonna be a daily driver so it needs to function well. I saw the tech article on redoing the shock post and plan on doing that, but I'm curios if I can cut some coil out of the spring, use lowering blocks on the rear and still have a useable unit.

    Chris
     
  7. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Thanks Chaddilac, that looks great!
     
  8. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    Remember when shoping for hop up parts for the engine that it is know as the long block 6. 25 inches long as opposed to Dodge and Plymouth 23.5 inch engines.

    Easiest way to get a bit more umph is to raise the compression ratio. You can take off up to .070 and still run regular gas. Usually take some off the head and some off the engine. Thee is a fellow in Pa, who makes dual intakes and dual exhausts from standard manifolds. He also reman's carburetors for the dual application. Olddady of this board does manifolds also and disc brake conversions for the front.

    Nice looking ride. Check the Imperial club site for lots of tips on Chrysler mechanicals of the period. Also check the P15 D24 board for mopar flathead friendly folks.
     
  9. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,265

    rodknocker

    Is that sittin on a different frame? the rear tire looks a bit forward, maybe thats stock.I like the slam look of that photochop.
     
  10. Gorgeous...never thought 2 tone silver would look so nice on these cars!

    Drop her and drive the piss out of her!
     
  11. BEBO
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 101

    BEBO
    Member
    from LUFKIN, TX

    cheap, reliable lowering? i wish!
     
  12. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Thanks for the tips! I'm hopin to do some of my own intake/exhaust work. I would love to talk to that feller in PA, do you have a number/email? I appreciate all the help/compliments.
     
  13. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI


    Just saw your other thread...your car looks great, nice find. Its good to see MOPARS representing well...
     
  14. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,443

    Squablow
    Member

    Black, skirts, visor, lowered. Lots of HAMBers don't like visors but this car is crying out for a Fulton, at least to me.

    Whatever you do, don't shave ANYTHING.
     
  15. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    I agree, I'm not getting rid of anything. I've seen some of these cars with a visor and thought it looked real good, too.
     
  16. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Original frame, totally stock. The only thing missing is the right side "Windsor" script above the fender ( and half of that is in the glovebox)....other than that it is complete and original.

    Chris
     
  17. Searcher
    Joined: Jul 8, 2007
    Posts: 620

    Searcher
    Member

    My grandad had one that I drove for awhile.
    It was a 49 Highlander, and had a cool looking plaid and leather interior.

    It was Fluid Drive also....

    If I remember right, You start out with the clutch with the tree shifter in the down position ?? get it rolling then let off the gas it it will shift once to second gear without the clutch...then you clutch and shift the lever up and do the same thing again for 3rd and 4th ???
    That's going back almost 40years in the memory department ...so ???
     
  18. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    That's it......and if I'm not mistaken, to down shift from 4-3 (or 2-1) you stab the accelerator to the floor kills the ignition/engine and allows the tranny to downshift. I haven't tried this yet, only got about 5 miles on her. I'd like to know if I'm correct before I try it though, anyone know??

    Heres where I got the info (from www.Allpar.com)
    If you had not exceeded the maximum shift speed and needed to downshift again, you stepped on the gas to the floorboard and the ignition would be turned off (releasing pressure on the gears) and a spring returned you to the lower ratio. When it completed the downshift the ignition came back on.

    http://www.allpar.com/mopar/fluidrive.html link to the whole article.
     
  19. Skankin' Rat Fink
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 1,497

    Skankin' Rat Fink
    Member
    from NYC

  20. Searcher
    Joined: Jul 8, 2007
    Posts: 620

    Searcher
    Member

    I seem to recall down shifting like that.

    I'd like to see the dash if you have a pic ??
     
  21. 53dodgekustom
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 880

    53dodgekustom
    Member

    That is right but you don't need to shift through all the gears every time. 1 and 2 are a low range and 3 and 4 are high range. Usally you only need 3 and 4 for normal (slow) driving. And yes that is how you downshift hit. Just hold it to the floor.
     
  22. 53dodgekustom
    Joined: Jun 18, 2006
    Posts: 880

    53dodgekustom
    Member

    That is a very classy car. I would cut one coil in the front and put three inch blocks in the rear. Drive it for a week. Then if the front is still to high cut another coil. You might be able to de-arch the rear springs with the 3 in blocks just make sure it still has at least 2 in of travel.

    I like the subtle two-tone. The factory split the colors in weird ways.
     
  23. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 4,018

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    You won't get a downshift untill you are below about 20 in high range. The engine has a lot of torque and downshifts weren't considered necessary in "NORMAL" driving. It will downshift when you come to a stop. No need to clutch to stop. These transmissions were referred to a clunkomatics. Low range is only good to about 25 or so. Idle speed is critical to proper trans operation. Check the tranny section on the tech section of the imperial club site. they have a page by page copy of the original tech/training bulletin for mechanics. (neat stuff) This is not a performance slanted transmission. Was a stop gap to compete with GM, automatics. Reliable and simple but not fast.

    Make sure your parking brake is working, there is no park on these and with the fluid drive no compression braking with shut off engine.

    carb and manifold guy is George Asche in Venus, Pa. Doesn't do web or email. He works out the auto electric shop run by his sons. the number is 814 354 2621. A short call to George is in the 1 hour range, so be prepared.

    There are several guys on the P15 D24 forum with lots of good experience with the M-6 semi auto. Drop in and post you questions there.
     
  24. Silhouettes 57
    Joined: Dec 9, 2006
    Posts: 2,791

    Silhouettes 57
    Member

    Nice old car, I think the maroon color would look good but no on the sun visor. My .02
     
  25. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Really appreciate the info plym 46, hope to reciprocate some day...

    Chris
     
  26. CWebster
    Joined: Apr 13, 2007
    Posts: 78

    CWebster
    Member
    from Byron, MI

    Hope this helps...

    Chris
     

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  27. diamond dave
    Joined: Jul 18, 2006
    Posts: 458

    diamond dave
    Member

    I've got a 49 new yorker with the straight eight and fluid drive. love em'. It's my 2nd one. I've been kinda hit and miss on the downshifting though. I've gotten it to drop down at low speeds, but haven't tried it on the highway. I have the owners manual and repair book on it, and it says that you can down shift by fully depressing the gas pedal at speeds under 45 to get it to work.
    p.m. me for more info.
    d.d.t.
     
  28. very cool score , enjoy it and drive the hell out of it..
     
  29. I love the '49-'54 Chryslers, had them since 1963. Lowering blocks work in the rear, Fatman fabrications in Charlotte makes brackets that can relocate the top of the front shocks from the upper a-arm to the frame for better handling... and he makes new dropped spindles for the front, also.
    http://www.fatmanfab.com/catalogpage.php?page=17

    Good luck, you made a GOOD buy!!!!:D
     
  30. garvinzoom
    Joined: Sep 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,169

    garvinzoom
    Member

    Good looking car CWebster. I like that lowered on whites look and your idea to paint it silver, I have seen these cars in maroon and hated it so I would not recommend that color. Too plain IMO.
     

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