Stromberg:Leaks like a seive

Help,
I bought a "rebuilt" Stromberg 97 on ebay. It leaks from the main jets,(adjustable) and after setting the float level, from the top. The Stromberg web site says never to use teflon tape to wrap joints, however the joints leak unless you use some type of sealant. I used the "yellow" tape used for gas lines. I have a Holley pressure regulator set at two pounds on an Ansen downdraft maifold, headers on a bored .100 over 4 banger Ford, 29' Speedster. Can anyone give me any advice?

Thanks,
Chuck Goings

 

So it is leaking from one or all of the three screws on the bottom? This is VERY typical. Here's the thing that I have noticed. The fibre (or whatever they are made of) washers they sell with most of these kits really don't fit. well so no matter how hard you tighten the screws...they will leak.

There is someone out there that makes some washers that fit and seal well...I forget who..but I someone on the HAMB surely knows.

If it is leaking from here, there is a good chance that this is all that is needed. If you were pushing past the top gasket (air horn)..then I'd say it was a pressure problem.

You may just try tightening them. I would not put tape on these screws. On the inlet..I would use it.
Tim
MBL

 

if you are leaking fuel out the "top" of the carb (guessing you mean the accel. pump) after adjusting the float level you probably adjusted the level too high. MBL has ya on the right track with the seal/washers. even brand new factory the fiber washers would weep fuel.

 

Oh yeah...Its Uncle Max on the HAMB...he is the one that sells the nylon washers..this will stop the leaking from the three bottom screws...Check with him...I might actuall need to contact him for some.
Tim
MBL

 

When you get the nylon washers from Uncle Max for the bottom screws (plugs), you should probably buy the hex headed plugs as well. They probably won't work with your adjustable jets, but the one for the middle will be useful. Makes it MUCH easier to tighten the things, especially when it's mounted on a multi-carb manifold.

As for the fuel out the top, you probably have too much fuel pressure. I have a pair that like 1.5 pounds best.

 

The yellow tape is for natural gas, not gasoline. You shouldn't be using any tape on the carbs, let alone that stuff. Matt Werksman also has the washers and just about any other Stromberg parts you might need. I believe his username is foxvalleyhotrods.

 

And...if the adjustables themselves leak where the faucet handle sticks out, tighten the outer nut I assume is there over some sort of primitive seal. If no go, get some 045 jets and sell the adjustables...there's no real reason for them IMHO unless job and home are 5,000 feet apart in altitude...there's a right jet for what you have, and it will be somewhere close to stock 97 jet size. I assume the actual jet in carb now would be real big to give the adjustables some range.

 

I have a roll of the "yellow" tape......it says for use WITH gasoline right on it.
But I agree....it shouldn't be needed on the carb itself.....

My carbs had some slight leaks and I used a THIN coat of Permatex black sealant/gasket maker......not the silicone RTV stuff, but the stuff that doesn't really dry.....the grey sealant from the IH dealer works good too...

 

The washers from Uncle Max definitely work. The first time I installed them they still leaked, but that was my fault, you need to really tighten them down, and it will be a positive seal. I have had not trouble at all with these. I was not aware of the hex head caps that someone mentioned. That sounds like a good idea.

 

I must be thinking of something different then, sorry about that.

 

when you but carbs from ebay expect them to leak. Buy them from a reputable source.

 

Hello..Some plug surfaces are smooth and some have a ridge..If you have the smooth surface the poly gaskets work great..If you have ridge you can cut the poly down to fit..I agree that the poly plug gaskets are the best..Careful about tightening them, that is old pot metal and can give quick..
Duane..

 

Also, use some Loctight thread sealant (not thread lock) on the screws. I do that with all mine, not a leak

 

Thanks all who answered. I sent away for a new rebuild kit, just to make sure and I will go the .45 jets route. I'm at dead sea level and can' get over 400' for about 75 miles (Myrtle Beach SC). I'll also get to Uncle Max for the nylon washers. I have a fibre assortment (300 or so)that must be 50 years old, and it has saved me may times, but none fit the jets well enough to hold the leaks. I put springs on them, in the hopes that that would help. Should they stay or come off? The tape is only on the outlet side of the Holley low pressure valve. I will open it up (counterclock) and get it as low as it will go and still be able to lock it. The top did not leak until I opened it toadjust the float level, which just barely lets fuel in the bowl now. Thanks for all the great advice.
Chuck
Chuck

 

What are you talking about? Springs on what?
And it sounds like you have the wrong Holley reg.....the most common one doesn't adjust low enough....you can turn the screw all the way out, but you will not get proper PSI. Holley 12-804 is the one you want, adjustible from 0-4 PSI....

 

A little more info to add to the pot. I have used Hylomar universal blue sealant (hylomar.com) with great success. Use it in very small doses. I used a paper clip to apply to both sides of the jet plug gaskets. Do not let it go into the threads. I also used it on the float bowl pin threads. Many Stromberg gurus have used it in the past with the same success.
Another point to be made while on this subject. You said you bought a rebuilt carb, and that is fine, but there is no better way to know a 97 , than to rebuild it yourself, plus its a fuckin cool adventure. The great thing is that they are simple carbs to work on, with not very many parts to remember. When I started in on my six two setup, I asked all the old timers I knew any and all tidbits or tips about the 97. I also scoured the internet for info. Restoration sites have great info on this shit. Also books like Tardels, as well as a flathead rebuild book with Stromberg info that I cannot recollect the name of.
Next step is to blow apart your 10 to 12 carbs (takes that many to make six clean ones sometimes) to be sent out to get hot tanked and bead blasted. Don't forget to pull the emulsion tubes.
All of it comes back to your lab-lots of cheap (99 cent store) tupperware containers set out your work bench . Break out your new rebuild kits and start reassembling. You WILL have leaks but most will tighten out.
Those are the broad strokes, but you get the idea. Oh yeah, all the points made have been very good so far, so listen to what was said.
Funny , there have been no"you can't rebuild those yourself" comments yet.
Have fun!

 

Many thanks to all who posted very valuable advice. I got in touch with Uncle Max this morning, just as he was about to go to the Post Office. He sent me six of the nylon spacers/washers..... no cost, just ask for my address and sent them. I will be doing business with him in the future, for sure. I have a master rebuild kit on the way from Stromberg and I will take Dragnuts advice and rebuild it my self.I will also replace the adjustable jets with .45's. Hey, if I screw up too bad , I can allways send it to Uncle Max!
Thanks again.
C. Goings

 

Hacks are Human Beings too . The first one's always free! Good luck with your soon-to-be non-leaker!

 

good thread. I just put gas in my 97s for the first time last night and two of them leaked out of the 3 bolw plugs. I took the screws out and the holes are pretty much stripped. I can't get the pkugs back in.

What is the purpose of those bolw plugs? the screw has a groove in it and has holes in it? I see something right inside the hole and the plug apprears as if it should seat on the tube inside the hole? What is there to know here?

 

Tudor..Ask Matt at FoxValleyHotRod..He can repair the plug holes for you..I wouldn't use the hex head plugs have a tendency to over do it..Use a inch pound torque wrench and 6 inch pounds is good..Just like the air horns..
If Strombergs are rebuilt correctly they will not leak.. And yes, if fuel pressure is to high it will come out through the felt around the accelerator pump. Set the float a 1/64 below the stock height..
Duane

 

If it don't leak, it ain't a Stromberg!! Just kiddin, nice info on the carbs.