Ok I've heard enough people rave about synthetic oil that I'm willing to give it a try in my daily driver. I have a couple questions.... 1.. Can I drain my regular oil, change the filter and put in the synthetic oil, or is the process going to be some pain in the ass flushing /purging deal. 2..Any reccomendations as to brand or type? .
I have been using Mobil 1 since the 10,000 mile mark on my S=10 4 cyl. and currently have almost 100000 on it. It still carries about 60-70 psi oil pressure. I also saw about a 15% decrease in gas usage. I only change it every 10000 but I also use the good oil filters. Not the cheap $3 ones. There is not need to flush so just drain and change filter. I am more than happy with it.
no flushing nessecary. of course there are going to be trace amounts of mineral oil but its not going to hurt the synthetic in any way. the only way to get it all out would be to break the motor down and clean all the parts. just like a tranny fluid change you never get it all. if you want to go something fairly inexpensive i have good luck with Mobile 1 synthetics, if you want to spend some cash go with amsoil synthetics. synthetics are great you get a little better mileage, better cehmical properties and detergants, also heat dissipation. you wont put as much strain on your motor due to the viscosity and weigh levels as well.
for what its worth in the drag racing world there is a usual gain of about 10 percent in hp up to about 600 hp when you go to synthetic in particular royal purple . my can instantly picked up 1 tenth and went 2 mph faster from then on with it .. i now use it in all my stuff...
here is a couple things to consider... only put it in a car that's engine is completely- broke in. If the engine uses any oil, I would not recommend using the synthetic. Synthetic oils ...when in a motor that uses oil-will not smoke at all-NONE. so it is pretty easy to buy an "oil burner"- that does not smoke. to test....[just pull out the dipstick and take a cigarette lighter and test for smoke when the flame is applied there.....]
I have used Amzoil for years in all of my daily drivers and race cars. Change oil every 5000 miles and use the best filters available.
Do I understand you correctly? An engine that is using oil (oil going past rings and/or valve guides) will not smoke because synthetic doesn't make smoke when it burns? I am not trying to be a wise ass (for once) but I have never heard this (along with a lot of other things). Thanks
I use Royal Purple in my daily and have been told by the rep, do not use it in a car that has over 75,000 miles on it. Reason being, synthetic cleans better than conventionals, and you will start springing little leaks here and there. He also says to get at least 2000-5000 on a new motor before using it. It will not allow rings to seat if you put it in right off the bat.
I've got Royal Purple in my '32 and the wife's '37. Hot oil pressure increased in both and not as much drop off at idle. Heed the advice about not using it in a fresh engine until everything has seated. Frank
Yup, I use synthetic injector and pre-mix oil in my 2-stroke bikes and stuff for that exact reason. Even in a 2 stroke that usually smokes like mad, the smoke is reduced about 80%
I have been using Amsoil for almost 28 years in just about every application imaginable from airplanes to backhoes, and in every use it has proved to be measurably superior to conventional oils. I have changed over some of my older cars, with high mileage engines in good condition, with no problems. The only thing to make sure that you do, is flush the engine using a new clean filter before adding the synthetic. Use the highest quality air and oil filters you can buy. The engines will run cleaner, start better, and last longer. I change my oil at 1 year or 25,000 miles. Bob
I tried synthetic oil in an old van that had a bad valve tick. In a few minutes the tick went away and never came back. I've used synthetic in all of my daily driver cars since then. The used synthetic oil looks a whole lot cleaner and drains out faster. I just buy whatever synthetic I can find on sale, Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil 1. Mobil 1 is probably my first choice. Just don't use them on a brand new engine is what I heard. You want to wait until the engine is broken in first.
ya its true, my first 302 i had in my 53 smoked like a bastard but ran great then some1 said put synthetic in it and stopped smoking,
I bought my '01 Ranger with 7800 miles on it. I changed it to Mobil 1 and never looked back. It currently has 173K on it, and the valve train looks new. I change my oil every 5000 miles (and get the tires rotated at the same time). I just use the cheapo filters because of the short time between changes. I've also used Mobil 1 in my SCCA race car. In both I've used 5W30.
Synthetic would be a great change, but remember the following things- Once you change to synthetic, stick with it. Dont go back and forth every other oil change because you have some or the other laying around your garage. Synthetic oil is thinner than conventional motor oils. It is prone to leaking more-Especially in older cars. Also you'll burn more than conventional oil also. I work for bmw and since 99 they all use synthetic. Ive had motors apart at 100k and you can still see the cross hatching in the cylinder walls from the original machining. Any quality brand should do you great and remember, at whatever mileage you coose to change it at, there nothing easier and better for your motor than changing the oil regularly.
I have an 81 BMW 633CSI with 300,000 miles on it on Amsoil and the compression is still so even that I haven't had the head off. Bob
people that know use vasoline!! or I ment valvoline! I had to replace my oil pan in my daily (rust hole) at 100,000 miles and the inside of the pan looked like new. I've removed oil pans with half the miles and used regular oil and they looked twice as bad. I put a fresh filter on every 5000 miles, and drain the oil every 10,000. My daily now has 170,000 on the clock.
Our policy on new engines is as follows, fill with a good brand of conventional oil (10w/30 or 10w/40) install a good filter (Napa premium, Wix premium or Baldwin) Start the engine and break it in (30 min.@ 2000 r.p.m. for a flat tappet cam) 20 min. or until engine comes up to operating temp. on roller cams. Drain the oil and change the filter (good oil and filter again) and operate under normal conditions for 500 mi. The rings will seat in 500 mi. or they never will! After 500 mi. you can switch to any premium brand of synthetic,remembering to always use premium filters! As for the filters, I remember seeing a filter study done by a HAMBER a little while back. Very informative post, do a search and check it out! Just a quick word of caution on flat tappet cams (hydraulic and solid) the 30 min. @ 2000 r.p.m. is critical to proper break in. If this procedure is not followed the cam will usually be junk! Check with any reputable cam grinder and you will get the same answer. The use of synthetics is not recommended for break in, due to the fact the film is much tougher and will not allow the rings to properly mate with the cylinder and ring groves. Not to mention the cost of two oil changes in 500 mi. Yes synthetics can be used in any engine that is in good solid condition, including your fresh flathead or banger! Don't even consider a blend!
Good advice on the mileage, though the reason for the leaks is not usually "cleaning better" (I don't know how that would make something leak externally...). It's the difference in shrink/swell rates of gasket materials, particularly older gasket materials like rope rear mains and cork. They swell up less when exposed to synthetic, and that's where the leaks come from. It's less of a concern with modern synthetic rubber materials like EPDM, though there is still some difference. I've seen bad shit happen with Mobil 1--they've changed formulations unsuccessfully over the years. But, it's still better than regular oil, and it's standard equipment on many high end cars. When I use synthetic, I use Castrol Syntech--personal preference.
On my Volvo Turbo's, Mobil-1 is all I have used due to the fact it doesn't coke in the superheated Turbochargers and lines. I CAN tell you that I bought a used Sienna minivan, changed fluids out and changed to synthetic. Immediately drove the 400 miles to Hunnert Car last year, and the engine blew 40 miles away from Morris... Pulled a valve cover, and the engine was severely sludged (See Toyota class-action lawsuit...). Now, did the synthetic break loose the sludge, or was it ready to go anyhow? I would err on the side of caution, and not run it in an older, high mileage vehicle... But, that is only my opinion... Full-synthetic is MUCH superior to dino oil tho...in the right applications...
Synthetic oil isn't thinner than conventional oils, a oil that is rated at a certain viscosity be it 5w30, 10w30, 15w40, 20w50 or straight 30, 40 or what have you is of the same "thickness" whether it's conventional or synthetic. But Synthetics flow better than conventionals due to them being of purer quality, less parafins and other impurities. But a 10w30 is a 10w30 no matter if it's a conventional or a synthetic, both are of the same viscosity (thickness). Also you'll burn less oil not more due to the fact that synthetic oil will not burn of at the same temperatures as a conventional oil will, in fact synthetics can take about twice as much heat as a conventional oil before it burns off. To the fact that you might leak more oil with a synthetic, well somebody else already explained that in this thread.
I have been running Mobile 1 in my daily driven 1990 full size Chevy blazer from the day I go it and it had 70,000 miles on it. It now has about 180,000 miles and they have been as hard of miles that I could of thrown at it and to this day it doesnt use a drop of oil!
My dads been running synthetic in hid 4.7 SOHC V8 2000 Dodge Dakota since he bought it at 19,000 miles. It now has a little over 300,000 miles on it with the only problem being an Evap coil. Runs Amsoil in motor, trans, and rear, and uses amsoil grease. Uses Amsoil filters as well. Changes the motor every 25,000. He gets 23 mpg all the time.Does not leak and it goes through 1/2 a quart every 25,000. (if you changed it every 5,000 you wouldn't notice) It still will lay a single track burnout till it hits the speed limiter at 98mph!(Really only going 50mph after it grabs.) Thats with no brake torque! I am impressed. He will keep driving it till a major mechanical failure. Should be interesting to see how long it last.
I go through cars like mad so synthetic is not a real advantage for me... I do maintain my parents cars and run Shell Rotella 5W40 and Pure One filters in a Subaru with a change every 6 mos or 6,000 and a Triton V10 with Motorcraft filter with 6 mos or 6,000.... The F250 V10 has 130K on it and tows trailers and works pretty hard... Uses NO oil, is quiet and the only leak is a seeping rear main which was there when we bought it used with 70K on it.... The last Subaru we had we sold with 140K on it with no leaks or consumption and quiet. I also bought a 4.0 Jeep of of them I used Mobil 1 and K&N filters that with 130K had no leaks, which is kinda of rare for a 4.0. I prefer Rotella because its cheaper and engines seem to have better oil pressure and run quieter. It also has better reviews on bobistheoilguy.com.
Yes, synthetics may cause leaks in older cars. You can use a blend to get most of the benifits of the synthetic. Still better than straight dyno oil. Dave
I have used nothing but synthetics in every hot rod engine I've built. The first engine shop I worked in did race engines for SCCA Trans-Am, ASA, and BGN. If it was good enough for them, it was good enough for me. Since then, I've learned a lot more about it, and I'll never go back to petroleum-based lubricants. The brand is less important to me than the fact it's synth. I've used Royal Purple, Red Line, Lucas, Castrol, and just about every other brand out there. If it's synthetic, it's fine by me. Expect lower running temps, more power, and cleaner parts on teardown. It lasts longer between oil changes, too- which helps justify the added cost. I can easily go 5,000 miles on synth. If it's clear and clean enough to see through on the dipstick, it's not ready to get changed yet. ~Scotch~
i have a 93 lincoln mark8 with 173K on the clock----know the history of the car from the time it was new and all the miles are not easy ones has had synthetic oil in it after break in time went 17k last time between changes and was only down a half quart im a believer in synthetic oil