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Need suggestions for removing rusted brake drum

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bwiencek, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    OK - I've tried everything I know and even invented a couple new things - the axle in question is the basic ford 9" rear, the drum on one side is stuck around the axle - if I pry on the drum it will move in relation to the studs, but the center 'hole' won't move off the axle.

    What more can I do to get this thing off??? :confused:

    Here's what I've done so far:
    - I've cleaned up the center part, sprayed with everything I had on hand - WD40, 3-in-1 penetrating oil, generic spray lube, etc.
    - Pounded the backside all around with using a piece of steel positioned on the drum 'edge' and a 3lb hammer
    - pounded radially around the drum
    - verified the brake shoes are not hanging up
    - heated with a propane torch (probably not enough heat, but it was worth a try..)
    - made a home-made puller that pulls the drum out while pressing in on the axle - the drum is flexed so far that the edge of the backing plate where it rides between the drum is now visable - hasn't moved one bit - even pounded radially around while it's flexed and nothing. I've left it sit overnight with it in this position and haven't checked today - maybe by some miracle it will have popped overnight :(
     
  2. Are you sure the brakes aren't hanging ? Try cutting off the nails (pins) from the backing plate side if you think they are hanging up.
     
  3. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    I'm pretty sure - I've 'flexed' the drum enough to "see" the edge of the brake shoes - if I could get it that far then I'm 99.9% sure they're not hanging up. Really didn't fell comfortable flexing it that far, but I was getting fed up with it and just happened to notice it and knew at that point it wasn't hanging me up...
     
  4. The best way I have found to remove rear drums that are rusted to the axle is:

    After soaking with PB Blaster(one of the best penetrants I have found)overnight,I take a wheel rim and loosely affix it to the axle with the lug nuts and use it as a sort of slide hammer.You can usually provide enough of an impact by grasping the wheel with both hands and pulling forcefully toward you to break it free.Did you also make sure that the shoes were backed off far enough?Sometimes if the drums haven't been turned,they will have a ridge inside that will hinder drum removal.
     

  5. Goztrider
    Joined: Feb 17, 2007
    Posts: 3,066

    Goztrider
    Member
    from Tulsa, OK

    The way I've always done removed them is smack the front side with a hammer. I once had a buddy who had a '72 Skylark and he'd work for almost 2 days trying to get the front drums off. I walked up with a 3lb sledge and hit it one time and the drum popped off onto the ground!

    If you aren't worried about replacing the wheel studs, you might be able to drive them back into the drum to gain more clearance with the hammer, although this shouldn't be an issue. As I said, I'll typically beat on the front side of the drum with the hammer and they'll break loose.
     
  6. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    safariknut - that might work for drums where the studs were part of the drum itself, but in this case the studs are on the axle which is retained in by the bearing retainer and isn't going anywhere until I can get the drum off. The drum is sandwitched between the axle flange and the wheel and centered by a smaller raised lip. And for the shoes dragging - see post above...
     
  7. Kustomz
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 555

    Kustomz
    Member

    I would try prying between the backing plate and the drum holding pressure and hit the axle at the same time.
     
  8. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 5,584

    wvenfield
    Member

    Try jacking up the rear. Installing wheel with two lugs (securely) run up to 30mph and slam on the brakes. Then in reverse.
     
  9. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    I've tried that one too - hit it with the 3lb hammer and still no budge it's got pressure on it now with the home-made puller that I'm felling like if I put any more pressure on it then something is going to catastrophicly fail! :eek:

    wvenfield<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_1873910", true); </SCRIPT> - I just brought it home from the junkyard so it's off the vehicle right now - I was stripping it down to get it cleaned up and narrowed...
     
  10. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 5,584

    wvenfield
    Member

  11. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,911

    BJR
    Member

    Drill 1/8 holes in the drum starting next to the hub. Don't drill into the axel flange. Drill about 3 holes in a row starting from the hub going away from the hub. Do this in about 6 places around the drum and it will relieve the stress on center hole of the drum and the drum will come off. Brian
     
  12. oletruck
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 77

    oletruck
    Member
    from Hurst, TX

    Have you tried an air hammer?
    I spent the last 45 min tryin to get a snapped wheel stud out for replacement. It was snapped smooth at the axle and I beat and drilled on that thing with everything I've got. Finally I got pissed off enough and grabbed a Collins Axe outta the garage, put a punch in a hole I drilled, tapped it once then wammo, I swung the shit out of it and the stud popped right out.
    If the air hammer don't work maybe you should get all lumber jack on its ass:D
     
  13. oletruck
    Joined: Sep 4, 2006
    Posts: 77

    oletruck
    Member
    from Hurst, TX

  14. btmatt
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 227

    btmatt
    Member

    Had the same problem several weeks ago. Use an acetylene torch with heating tip around the lugs until you hear a "pop". Drum will slide right off. Amazed my son after he had beat on it with a 3 lb machine hammer for 10 minutes
     
  15. HHRdave
    Joined: Jul 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,068

    HHRdave
    BANNED
    from So Cal

    Go down to an old tire shop in town and ask to borrow their heavy duty puller (it has three legs and a huge thereaded shaft). Bolt that up and then heat that drum with a torch...it will come right off.
     
  16. A Swedish friend showed me the heating trick. He has to do it all the time. Heat the drum around where the axle stub sticks through. A few minutes of that and it will fall off.
     
  17. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    Many Thanks to all for the suggestions! - the home-made puller is like a 3-jaw puller, but only 2 'jaws' - my biggest 3-jaw only went up to like an 8 or 9" diameter so I fabbed this thing up...

    I'll start looking for someone with a torch, and if I can't find anyone I think I'll start drilling the holes around the edge - may have to get a new drum when this is all said and done...

    P.S. anyone near Kansas City have an acetelyne torch :D
     
  18. Kustomz
    Joined: Jun 7, 2006
    Posts: 555

    Kustomz
    Member

    Try hitting the center shaft on your puller and tighten it a little at a time after each hit.
     
  19. old dirt tracker
    Joined: Sep 20, 2006
    Posts: 1,003

    old dirt tracker
    Member
    from phoenix

    take your torch and heat the drum around the center where it goes over the axle hub. this will do two things heat will expand the center hole and break the rust free.
     
  20. You DID remember to remove the retaining "clips" that fit over the studs to hold the drum on, didn't you? :rolleyes:
     
  21. shortyforty
    Joined: Nov 4, 2006
    Posts: 57

    shortyforty
    Member
    from NH

    Had to do the same thing on the Camaro this weekend. It had been sitting in the previous owners garage for 12 years. I did what we used to do at the repair shop I worked at as a teen. A torch around the axle stub that sticks out through the drum.
     
  22. Terry D
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 181

    Terry D
    Member
    from NY

    You need 2 ball peen hammers,turn one so the ball side is on the drum,as near the axle as possible.Beat on the hammer head hard with the other hammer.Do this at different points around the center of the drum.Then whack the drum hard around the outside edge {the front edge not back by the backing plate}.This works great if you don't have a torch.This info supplied by a New Yorker with 30 years experience removing rusty parts!!!
     
  23. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    No clips on there - I can actually make the drum move in relation to the studs so I know it's not sticking on the studs.

    I'll have to try that one tonight - if all else fails I'm going to bring it over to a buddy's place this weekend as he's got a torch that I can use to heat 'er up - thinking that will pop it right off.

    Thanks for all the suggestions!
     
  24. jusjunk
    Joined: Dec 3, 2004
    Posts: 3,138

    jusjunk
    BANNED
    from Michigan

    I had one on my kids jeep that i had to cut it off with my cutting torch. The first time ive ever had to do it that way.. I dont care what i tried it wasnt comming off.. Sounds like you have ruined the drum anyway.. Cut the bitch.
    Dave
     
  25. I had to shatter the drums off of a 10 bolt with a sledge hammer. It scared the bejesus out of me, but it worked just fine. I've been driving it for 3 years with that rear end and no troubles.
     
  26. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    Oh - trust me I'm not going to leave without the drum off... It's not ruined yet, but if I've got to put the cutting tip on the torch and torch it off it will be off before I head home with it - drums are cheap to replace anyhow and I've messed with this long enough!
     
  27. avenue
    Joined: Oct 27, 2006
    Posts: 27

    avenue
    Member

    I'm having the same frustrating problem right now in the driveway. I've already tried the heating trick (but with a propane torch). Do I need more heat? Also, I went through a can of penetrating oil with no luck. And, I've used every hammer in the garage, even the big ones. I can get a puller if needed but my mother would rather me have this car out of her driveway by nightfall.

    any other suggestions?
     
  28. jusjunk
    Joined: Dec 3, 2004
    Posts: 3,138

    jusjunk
    BANNED
    from Michigan

    Using a puller really doesnt work simply because the way the drum is shaped the flange around the axle protrudes outward and when you put a puller on it it will make it grab the axle even harder. The hammer tween the studs works quite well but you have to go all around the drum. the other thing that works is big time heat with a torch. Ive only been defeated once and it was a jeep cherokee rear drum and i finally sliced it right off the axle with the smoke wrench.. One new drum and new shoes and good to go.. (9 inch drums are pretty cheap. Try buying nrew drums for 8 inch rears ....
    Dave
     
  29. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,581

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    Four cuts on the outside of the drum then hammer (bigger hammer if needed) to loosen and remove then throw it away and buy new ones.
     
  30. bwiencek
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 325

    bwiencek
    Member

    I got it off with an acetylene torch I had to borrow from a friend of mine... didn't budge otherwise!
     

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