Okay, I'll explain, I have a 27 lakes modified built with a frame from an early "T" bucket kit. I bought the clean frame (no Numbers) at a yard sale. After the car was completed I called a friend that has a cigar box full of old titles and he gave me the title to a 27 coupe. I stamped the numbers from this title onto a small brass plate attached this to the frame ahead of the firewall on the drivers side. I took the car to the AAA office and said I need a current title for this car. 45 minutes and $93 later I had a new title and license plate. Note, I DID NOT go to the DMV And I DID NOT make up the numbers. Another registration story, a friend had built a 29 fiberglass roadster and installed a crate engine and ca DMV required all current applicable smog so he went to a registration service and they told him to get a frame with a bill of sale, he called and asked if I could help. I went to my friend with the titles and he had a pink for a 29 roadster. He said that I should see if it would work which I did, then my friend asked me what he wanted for the title, I asked what it was worth to him and he replied "Up to $500 bucks, I guess" So back to my friend I went and asked how much he wanted for the title, he said he needed a good toilet. So the car owner gave him a brand new toilet and stamped the numbers on a small brass plate which he fastened to the frame and he has a street legal (Ca) roadster. But note in both cases we had a old but valid title.
Do you have a picture of that small brass plate, mabye I can do that to, I have a problem to get licensplates on my a ford 28 , becouse i cant find my chassinumber...
Can you send one to my mail to? That would be nice thank you..... Nielsen hears to be scandinavian last name?
Frame number, I hope, keep getting too large message. If you go to very many car shows in ca you will see these on a lot of cars.
Should there be an A before the numbers?? example A 900567 and where should the plate stand on the rod?? seems to me that you have it on the frame, but where, and can it be standing in another spot??? can it be on the body???
That number was taken from an original 1927 california model "T" pink slip or title and the ones that I have seen are on the top rail just in front of the firewall on the drivers side. I don't know where else it might be placed. This is close to the original location because that is where they start looking I suppose. I grew up in a small town between 2 larger towns and we would go to the DMV in one of the larger towns and they would ask all these questions and tell us what we had wrong, we would go home and make all the corrections then go to the DMV in the other town and most times we would get the car registered. No computers at that time so no record of the earlier attempt. Most of problems were with A V8 conversions.
Tor A lot of the As that were exported to Europe and Oz had the frames manufacturered in Canada. Don't know about the exported ones, but Canadian As did not have serial numbers stamped on the frame and the serial numbers had a star in front and behind the numbers, the numbers started with *CA? ?????* with the first character after the A signifying the month of the build and the last 5 characters being numbers within that month. One tip of of a Canadian frame is holes punched for the steering box on both rails. Have a list break down of Canadian serial numbers in George Moir's catalogue if that is any help. Canuck
Try looking on the center crossmember near where the battery ground or battery hanger is located My 28 pickup had the numbers under the cowl right where the body to frame bracket is riveted, and also on the top of that center crossmember. There should also be an assembly date stamped on the drivers side firewall just above the fuel tank to firewall assembly flange.. not that it is important , but just another piece of information to show the police officer if they have to come to the house to verify that the bill of sale, title whatever is for that very vehicle.. You might want to omit that piece of info if your title says it's a 28 and the number says it is a 29 etc. There is also a site that the "A." Ford collectors use that gives all the serial #'s and where the year breaks are . Be careful again not to gi ve conflicting info if you have a later year chassis, and the #'s should be many thousands less for 1928. I'll try to get the hyperlink and put it in another post if I find it.. Later Jerry (manacoem)
Now...when fabricating your frame number, why use a plate when original did not use one? Seems like a red flag.
It is just the custom and I didn't want to stamp into my powder coated frame. As I said in my previous post, this is what we did and it worked for us. I painted my car red but you don't have to.
I guess from the posts that my 29 roadster must be rare then. It has matching no's on the title, frame and engine. I was barely able to read the no.'s on the frame when I lifted the body up to repair some body panels, but it was there below the cowl. I called my DMV and asked if I had to bring the car in with the body off and they told me if the engine no. matched the title it would be fine. I think they quit stamping the front of the gas tank in Oct. or Nov., 1929.
This happened to me. I got around it with a little craftyness and my good looks. It's all just a game they make you play and is a not fun part of the hot rod experience. They made the rules and it is your job to learn them and how to get around them. Also, think back to when you were 17. You gave as little info as possible to your parents. Do the same thing at the DMV. The bottom line is, they just want some money, what you say has a huge impact on how much you end up paying.
Hi Canuck, does this catalogue include '33-'34 serial numbers, or is it just Model A's? Where can I get a copy? Thanks, Andy BTW, in the UK if there is no original title we have to get the car inspected and the numbers authenticated by a recognised club (Model A Club GB, or The Early Ford Club), and these guys obviously know what the likely numbers are, where they should be, and what they should look like. We'd be VERY, VERY lucky to get away with a brass (or any other) tag rivetted to the frame.
Try checking the MAFCA website they have a listing of engine numbers as well as production numbers... If nothing else , you may be able to deduce from a firewall date what range of numbers you are looking for.. also I think each set of numbers has a star stamped before and after the number..Happy hunting!! Later... Jerry (manacoem)
Ok, so I buy a title (historical document) from the classifies here, Is it possible that someone is already using that number? Is there a someway to find out, if that number is being used?
They put the numbers on the subrails up by the firewall too! Probably won't help if you've just got a frame.
I bought a good title from a friend, order a body number tag from a model a restorer catalog ( I think it said Murray body number) Stamped the same numbers on the tag, mounted it to the lower firewall, and turned in my DMV paperwork. Had to get an officer to come to the house, verified it, and got my title.
i am aware of a stamped numbere on the body on the drivers floor area sub rails,...i have seen it there on a body i was going to buy....
One way to tell if you have a Canadian A or T is the screws used to put the window mouldings and dash in. Canada used Robertson, ( screws with a square hole in the center of them, like a torqz but not all the edges). USA cars used regular slot head screws. If you have a Canadian car they don't have serial numbers on the frame, only on the engine. Pat.
Just to set something straight - Ford did not mark the engine from what I understand. The transmissions had the number (up to 1948) - when the transmission and engine met the chassis, the number on the transmission was stamped on the frame. It is pretty rare to find a frame with the matching transmission today. I don't know about now, but in the past Ford never stamped the engine with the ID number, at least up to the 70's/80's?? I think GM always put the ID # on the engines.
You should not "set something straight" when you are wrong. Have you never seen a Model A block? Number is stamped right there on the side.
It is like all they want you to have is a parade car. All States DMV is like they want your money and must try to humiliate you in doing so!
Just stumbled on this thread, and it is just exactly what a fellow street rodder and former co-worker were discussing yesterday while driving home from a mission to Atlanta and return. Also quite pertinent to me with my Brookville roadster I have under construction ('30-31) with a frame also from them which is replica of modified '32. Friend said that the state{GA) had recently implemented a new law that greatly complicated things in getting a registration and a tag. His son has a T Bucket that he drives very little and is driving around with a paper tag saying "tag applied for", which to me isn't a viable solution. Sooner or later some cop is gonna be looking at that car while following it, and remember he saw it months ago with that same paper tag. I have a friend in the local tag office with whom I talked about this just a week or so ago, She made no mention of a new law, and implied we could get it registered fairly simply when the time came, sure hope she's right! I plan to try to make the "H.A.M.B. and grits" breakfast Sunday, so maybe someone there can offer some insight into this. Dave
i am now saving all stock bad model A trans for thier id numbers for use on future projects ... will it matter if the proper trans id numbered unit is loose in the trunk?
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