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Please help get my car running......

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by NortonG, Aug 2, 2007.

  1. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    I can't get this thing going.

    Man do I feel dumb not being able to track down what the problem is with my Falcon. It's the simplest car in the world and I can't figure it out.
    It's a 64 with a 200 that I bought from a hamber last year.
    Ran great last year.
    I put a new C4 auto trans in this spring and I'm not sure what happened.
    I'm having electrical issues.
    new battery
    new solenoid
    The solenoid clicks really fast and then if you try it again it doesn't work at all.
    What the hell did I do to this thing?
    I just bought a new ignition stitch for it and it's still doing the same thing.
    What would be the best way to check the wiring?

    Thanks for the help.

    Dave
     
  2. First things first; make certain that the battery you are trying will actually start another car, I've seen them fail in all kinds of weird ways, just because the have 12 volts across the post,,,,,,,,,,,,
     
  3. I go pogo
    Joined: Apr 22, 2003
    Posts: 485

    I go pogo
    Member

    Ground? fuseable link? oxide on the battery conections?
     
  4. chopped
    Joined: Dec 9, 2004
    Posts: 2,139

    chopped
    Member

    Did it ever start after the trans. switch? If not I'd be looking at flexplate/starter issues.
     

  5. DrDano
    Joined: Jul 10, 2003
    Posts: 696

    DrDano
    Alliance Vendor

    Check the power at the battery when not starting. Check voltage when you activate the solenoid. Check voltage at every junction of the battery cable between the battery and the starter. Check continuity between starter and negative battery terminal. All this should take 5 min. You've got something is causing the solenoid to flutter back and forth. Low voltage, bad grounds, improperly hooked up solenoid, etc can all make it behave like this.
     
  6. randydupree
    Joined: May 19, 2005
    Posts: 667

    randydupree
    Member
    from archer fl

    ground cable from battery to block,hell,just replace all three cables,it needs them anyway.
     
  7. Dirty2
    Joined: Jun 13, 2004
    Posts: 8,902

    Dirty2
    Member


    What he said... Ford starters have to have 12 volts to start. Take the grounds off and clean them or replace.
     
  8. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks for the help guys.

    I'll go through everything tomorrow.

    Dave
     
  9. Flatman
    Joined: Dec 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,975

    Flatman
    Member

    Hey Kid,
    Didn't you get my PM about me coming out to give you a hand?

    Flatman
     
  10. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    Yeah Scott I did, but I haven't been spending much time working on anything lately.
    Working every other weekend and driving to Michigan on the other ones hasn't given me much "car time" this summer.
    It's time to get back on it.
    The bad news is I'm selling my 27.

    Cheers Dave
     
  11. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    I'm betting you left the ground strap off when you swapped trannys.
     
  12. NortonG
    Joined: Dec 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,117

    NortonG
    Member Emeritus

    I'm pretty sure I put everything back on, haha.

    Do you know where the ground should be so I can check again?

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  13. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    should be at the bellhousing, or engine block.
    While cranking, check voltage from the NEGATIVE terminal to engine ground. Should be less than .2 volts.
    Not 2 volts, .2 volts or less. Thats called a voltage drop test. Better than any ohms test for resistance in a circuit.
     

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