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Pneumatic Sander for bodywork?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chad s, Jul 20, 2007.

  1. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

  2. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    Wile I've never been a big fan of Hutchins air files, on account of
    their "monkey motion" they do seem to hold up well. I like the
    better balance of the ATCOA in line air file, especially for knock
    down roughing of filler.
    On the other hand, many guys like the orbital "mud slingers" for
    roughing and finish work. The size of the DA works well for small
    areas. It gets down to what you've used over the years
    Both of these machines are a top choice!

    Swankey Devils C.C.
     
  3. 53chevy
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,570

    53chevy
    Member

    You're limited with the in-line sander (Great for flat surface, doors, roof, side panels, etc.). But an Orbital is your best bet for all around sander. It's easier to control as you work each part the car. Sanding is a Bitch, but it'll pay off in the end. Good Luck!

    Ken
     
  4. BELLM
    Joined: Nov 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,590

    BELLM
    Member

    Might just be my tools but my D/A takes a lot more air than my air file. Gotta have a good sized compressor to run a DA for long periods of time.
     

  5. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,730

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    2 different tools. I like to have both, but I can't say I use them to rough in as much as to get closer to using the old hands...
     
  6. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,730

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC


    The in-line is superior for getting those long flat surfaces to stay flat... I wouldn't say either is better all around...
     
  7. Casey
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,293

    Casey
    Member Emeritus

    what ya need is the 8 inch DA they call the bondo buster with 36 grit . that will make some bondo Bugger`s
     
  8. rdachsdog
    Joined: Dec 31, 2005
    Posts: 236

    rdachsdog
    Member
    from michigan

    I would go with the inline orbital, I haven't used my inline Atcoa since I got the Hutchins 15 years ago. But the other one has it's uses too. Save up and buy 'em both!
     
  9. d_ciobotaru
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 34

    d_ciobotaru
    Member
    from ri

    im my opinion air boards are for guys who repair limos, buy a nice set of blocks and a da the hutchins is great i use one everyday, and go spend a buck at homo depot and buy a 10 in half round (it looks like a cheese grater) to cut your filler. unless you do bodywork for a living an airboard isnt worth it and in my shop youll get laughed out into the street if you pull one of those out of your box.good luck
    that huchins da is not for filler work,its more for refinishing the 4560 is a good all around sander thats what i use
     
  10. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Well, air supply shouldnt be an issue. My 80 Gallon Eaton keeps up with my pressure pot media blaster with no issues, and hasnt failed to run an air tool continuousely yet.

    The 6" pad on the Hutchins does seem a bit small. Can an 8" pad be fitted to the 4500 or 4560?

    Would I be better off with this ? :
    http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/VIK-V201.html

    I think the DA would be a better first choice, concidering I dont have one yet, and my mail long board blocking will be done with my sanding blocks.


    EDIT: According to the Hutchins sire, an 8" pad is available for the 4560, I think this may be my best option to start with.
     
  11. Casey
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,293

    Casey
    Member Emeritus

    you need both the 8 inch for the roughing and the girly one for finishing.
     
  12. publicenemy1925
    Joined: Feb 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,187

    publicenemy1925
    Member
    from OKC, OK

    For air rough out I use a hutchins inline 2000. A outstanding flat stroker. The 3800 I have only seen painters use for blocking large flat panels for paint and that is a rarity at best. The 8 inch viking is a good choice to for rough out. I have a national detroit 8 inch. How big of a spot are you working? The 2000 i use everyday at a Lexus dealership and it fits really all the panels well. Your DA you picked is a finish sander for painters. Very smooth with a small orbit. I use a national detroit 6 inch DAQ6. It is a all around DA. It handles plastic work well and finishes for paint very well too. Put some 40 on it it and it roughs out very well to. Hope this helps. If you need more advice you can PM me.
     
  13. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

  14. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    In this case i'd go with the National Detroit 8". You can control the
    r.p.m. with the air valve, and thus the material removal. You can
    feather edge paint with this tool, but it does take some pratice.
    If you're going to work high crowned panels in small areas, most
    of the time, ya may want the smaller machine.

    Swankey Devils C.C.
     
  15. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Well, my current project, and main reason for buying this tool now is on a 47 ford. there are plenty of hich crowned surfaces. I guess the real answer is to have both a 6" DA, and the 8" gear driven sander, but I'll have to put one off untill later. I think the Hutchins with 6 and 8 inch pads may be my best bet for versatility right now.
     
  16. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Well first, are you in a full time shop that you'll be using these tools alot? I use mine alot and they are both Ingersoll Rand. They both work great and you'd save enough to be able to buy a 6" DA and an air file. Don't get me wrong, Hutchins makes a great product, but if you're just starting into this, you don't need to start at the top.
     
  17. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    I am not in a pro shop, but I do have an obsession with buying the best tool I can afford. Im 23, and I can buy one of these sanders now, and have it for the rest of my life. Not that the IR sanders shouldnt last a long time, but I also try to buy USA made tools, and I dont think any of the IR sanders are USA made.
     
    klawockvet likes this.
  18. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    My vote is for the inline. I bought a Hutchins Hustler as my first air tool, probably 30 years ago. Still have it, and it works great. Advantages over an orbital: Cutting in "body lines", doing concave areas, finishing off "peaks" and doing edges, like door jams. Used an orbital once, but didn't like it, and it used too much air.
    just my opinion, though!
     
  19. SlowandLow63
    Joined: Sep 18, 2004
    Posts: 5,958

    SlowandLow63
    Member
    from Central NJ

    Very good point, the IR sanders have held up for me for quite some time. (Especially because my Snap-On guy fixes em for cheap) Just wanted to extend a different idea to meet your issue in the middle.
     
  20. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    I wound up going with the National Detroit DAQ6 DA sander, and the Viking 8" "Mudslinger". After using them for a few days now, I am thrilled with both choices (Thanks publicenemy). I may add the air file at a later date, but for now I am far better off than I was before with just hand blocking from the start.

    Now I just want to get some of those sanding blocks with the removeable rods to replace my Durablocks...
     
  21. JohnnyP.
    Joined: Aug 3, 2005
    Posts: 1,301

    JohnnyP.
    Member

    if you find kustom hotrod flatz paint on the internet, they sale the blocks you are talking about. complete sets for reasonable price. but i still use my durablocks.
     
  22. Chad s
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 1,717

    Chad s
    Member

    Those have a similar shape to the block, but dont have the 3 rods for adjustment.

    These are what Im refering to:
    http://www.adjustflexsand.com/products.html
     

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