model a front crossmember?

iam using a 4'' drop axle, i was told to adjust the caster back to 5 - 7 degrees positive with the crossmember, should i use an after market and set it, or can i adjust the stock one to that angle,

 

I think the stock crossmember came with a 6 degree angle to the spring mount.

Flatman

 

Be sure to take the rake of the chassis into account when you put the crossmember in. Example: If the chassis is going to have a 5 degree forward rake (finish stance) and you put the crossmmember in at 5 degrees (to the frame)the net result will be 0 (zero). The 5-7 is in relation to the ground after the car is assembled and sitting on all 4 tires.

 

thanks, i was just thinking it would be better to do what i can for that now rather than later,when installing the crossmember,i will have a stock and a aftermarket crossmember to choose from...it will have a flathead v8 and run 16'' wire wheels,

 

is their any advantage to using the stock member over the aftermarket one?

 

The aftermarket crossmember is intended to be used in a boxed frame, therefor its shorter than the original.

 

i see so if using the stock one, is their anymore tilt that needs to be added to the stock member then what it came with....

 

In a nut shell, when your car is finished and sitting on flat ground, the axle needs to be between 6-9 degrees without the spring/shackles being in a bind. Best thing is to mock up exactly how you want your car to set, see what degree the cross member is at, then you know how much adjustment is needed to keep it at the required 6-9 degrees.
This way, when you locate your hairpins/radius rods they will fall into place and not "bind-up" the spring/shackles....
You can always opt for adjustable perch bolts also, this will eliminate any binding.

Good luck

 

If you already have the stock crossmember in place, it is much easier to make a "wedge plate" about 6 to 8" long x 3/16" thick on the narrow side and 3/8" thick on the "thick side" . This will give you the 6 degrees---then fit it into the top of the crossmember and weld the ends in place.

 

cool that what i needed to know, so if the factory crossmember was set at 6 degrees, i just need to get it all mocked up the way i want it to set,and re ckeck it and go from there..

 

It didn't take me long to figure out when doing all my mock up measuring that having your wheels/tires at the outset makes life a lot easier.
Didn't stop me from doing things the hard way, just took longer...

Flatman

 

i know you mean, thats the way it seems that i have to do it the hard way first, i was just trying to get an idea of what to do to save me a few steps,i know someone has build an a model coupe, with a v8 flathead and 4''drop axle, with 16'' wires, that has been through this already,,

 

Thats one thing for sure I do know, It will never go together the first time. You will mock it up and tear it apart three times before its right ...welcome to the world of hotrods......

 

We use the Deuce Factory front crossmember which has 7 degrees built in.

 

thanks guys....

 

The ones I sell from SO-CAL are full-width and you box around them.

 

That's good info....I wasn't aware of that.