this is how i painted my bucket also. at the time i didnt have my compressor or a paint gun, and it lucked out my wife was going thru a "paint the house" phase so we already had the foam rollers. mine came out great, but i think if i do it again i will thin it out a little more. i buffed and wetsanded with 1500 and it looks good. a little more sanding and it would look better, but i'm happy with it. IBB41 and I have discussed this quite a bit thru PM's. glad to see it's been brought to light as an alternative to those who might not have access to a compressor and gun, or are renting and cant get paint dust everywhere. i'm at work now and cant post a pic, but if you look at my previous posts, you can check out the paint.
I for one, would not use cheap paint. Too much prepwork went into this car, to risk not buying automotive paint. Prep is everything and very time consuming, I would not coat it with El-cheapolium. Cool technique thou.
EXACTLY why i would thin it out a bit more the next time. mine took close to a week to harden enough for the buffer.
I've got a traditional built '34 Ford PU that was done with a 50/50 mix of flat white and flat black Rustoleum. Six coats sprayed. One of the best looking hot rod finishes I've ever seen. It's a bit darker than regular gray primer and polished out to a nice sheen. It's with a doubt the most durable finish I've messed with. You can't scratch it and looks perfect on the traditional built hot rod truck. I can remember my Dad using Rustoleum on his old rods back in the late '50s.
Seem like if you take your time and pay attention to detail you can have a goos outcome. How would you apply a clear coat? The same way and buff out?
My grandfather worked in a body shop in the twenties, they brush painted everything, there were no spray guns. They sanded with a piece of felt, anf pumice powder, and rubbed them out with coal dust. When I started messing with this stuff in the late 50s, most parts stores carried brushing enamel, which was designed to use with a brush, to paint cars. Most oriential lacquer ware is brush painted.
THIS JUST FUCKING AMAZING TO ME. I HAVE ALWAYS JOKED ABOUT ROLLED ON PAINT JOBS AND HOW BAD THEY LOOK. I GUESS I HAVE JUST NEVER SEEN IT DONE RIGHT. I AM GOING TO TRY THIS ON MY 53 ASAP. THE HAMB RULES! IF ANYONE ELSE HAS PICTURES OF OTHER JOBS DONE THIS WAY POST EM UP. THANKS
I am impressed with how it turned out. It seems like alot of work though, for that kind of paint job. I would be woried about putting conventionial paint over it in the future. When I am doing a really budget paint job I use a full urethane or polyurethane from nason {who makes dupont} or Valspar. I usually spend about $150 for a gallon with everthing needed to spray. Lays very nice so you dont have to wet sand so much, and have had jobs hold up well for at least 10 years. As far as spraying goes all you need is cheap compressor and gun, any car guy has access to a compressor, even if it's a buddys portable unit. So are you really saving that much money?
When I put the semi-gloss scallops on mine I elected to use the spray can rustoleum insted of the roller. I would think the satin or flat colors could be done the same way except the final wet sand and buff. Here's mine before the last sand and buff. if you look in the reflection you can see Frankenstein...lol
That's how I'm doing my 54. Tremclad's dark blue matches the original finish pretty closely. A lot of guys have mentioned that you can get away with doing one area at a time and don't have to worry about match problems. Great for a guy who drives his car daily and has for example only weekends free to do it. Now to figure out how to get flake in it for the roof Todd
Well, I guess you get what you pay for. Heck, I can't get Black gloss Rustoleum to last for more than a year on my fence or on my trailer. And don't go near that car with any kind of solvent!! I expect good paint jobs to last at least 15 years when cared for. In the end, this will be the most expensive 50 dollar paint job ever done. Good for posting "news"; bad idea for the car.
A pretty good looking result there,especially for the type of paint he used.... Rustoleum is an oil base enamel.[most other Traditional early type enamels were Alkalyd base.] It is very good on chassis stuff when thinned with a little Laquer thinner[20%] it dries real fast and gets hard as hell... Altho it is great for the above uses ,I personally would not recommend it as a topcoat. It is usually not very responsive to polishing,but with a hardener added it would improve those results. Most Acrylic enamels are relatively low cost and even though their companies are trying to phase it out in favor of base -clears ,it Is still relatively easy to buy..... These are far superior and will [color sand and rub out] to a finish that most anyone would have trouble telling from the hi dollar stuff.... I used to refinish a lot of cars and I can testify the life of these [Acrylic base enamels with hardeners] are a lot longer and the fact they fade less is a big plus too.
i like tremclad mixed 2 parts dark blue and 1 part black, i know you can clear over it as well so maybe you could mix flake in a couple of coats of clear then just clear over that.
Thats probably because it was latex with thick nap roller,lol. For my $900 wagon this is perfect, I've already got the supplies. I've got a one car garage that is my shop, where the laundry gets done, holds the water heater, you get the idea. No overspray! Wasn't there a thread a couple yrs ago about brush paint from England or Australia? Granted the paint quality isn't the same, but obviously it works by all the internet chatter.
Ive followed the moparts thread and have read the several hundred pages of it, I do believe it works well after seeing the results. the main benefit is if someone does not have the facilities to shoot a car. the guy that came up with it was a painter and tried it out. Id maybe do a beater but with the time involved I'd rather just prep the car right and use single stage or cheap 2 stage paint. Ive shot rustoleum many times on exterior doors and like using it, just dont know if id do anything but a beater with this method since I already own several paint guns and compressor.
Actually a Canadian came up with it and started the thread, unless you count the Brits brushing it on their cars. The Americans havent done it since Henry Ford. Boat painters have been using the method for years.
I've also read some folks are using Brightside Marine(Boat) paint which has UV protection & is a one-part polyurethane paint & I've also read that Rustoleum has alkalyd based paints also. If you look through the 200 or so pages on the Mopar page you'll see some cars/trucks that you'd swear were shot w/a gun & has a nice shine to them. from what I have read they say all ya need to do to keep it shiney is wax it yearly.....joe here's some cars that has be painted w/a roller... Charger Beetle another Beetle '67 Dart GT Lincoln Camaro Luv Truck
I like people that have the brains to think out of the box...just think, no booth, no overspray, cheap...cool!
i see the cost of rustoleum going through the roof when the US goes to water base paint...everyone will buying rustoleum paint..and painting there on cars and trucks,motorcycles whatever...what i want to know about rustoleum is can it be cleared over instead of all that wet sanding a recoating?..anyone know..if so that would still be a relatively cheap paint job that wouldnt fade out like straight rusoleum
my 39 is done in rusty metal primer rustoleum ..several people told me it would fade out and it does BUT i wash it with comet and it looks like i just painted it..also the wheels and the grill and steering wheel is red rustoleum has been paint like this for alittle over a year now..i thought the shine on the steeering wheel would rub off after awhile but it hasnt..
the way this paint is supposed to be "self-leveling" i would think it would be perfect for big, flat, squarish cars like early 60's to mid 60's lincolns and imperials. if you read all of the entries on the moparts sight it seems that most the attributes is that youre thinning the paint quite a bit and doing lots of coats with lots of sanding in between. to me its a no-brainer. i mean painting is painting. the process of painting a new bedroom door arent really that different than painting a car hood. like someone on here earlier said its all in the prep and what youre doing in between coats.
I'm going to try it...on my riding mower, just to see if it can be cleared or painted over with automotive paint.
There is no reason why this wouldn't work. Sure there are drawbacks- like longevity, etc. I've followed the threads myself, and I agree...with proper (careful) prep work, and someone who knows how to wetsand/buff correctly (not using one of those cheap $35 "random orbital buffer-polishers" -but a real wheel), you could crank out a decent looking paint job. I've even heard of guys laying down paint with a pump-up bug sprayer. Get enough paint on there, sand your balls off, hit it with a wheel, and you get a shine. Only drawback I see in all this is that you are limited to solid colors. Can't roll metallics or candies that I know of. Has anyone tried that? Also- has anyone tried doing this with "real" auto paint- I.E. non-Rustoleum or marine paint? I would think it would be too thin out of the can...since it's designed to be sprayed. The key to this, as with most paint jobs, is patience and some experience with paint/sanding/buffing. You have to understand how paint works (or doesn't work). You can't slather on a bunch of paint in humid weather in direct sun, have it look like you rolled on latex on a house, and expect to buff it out nice. If you don't know what you are doing, it can become a mess real quick.
I get all of my autobody stuff from this guy, great prices and the stuff is at your door in 2 days: smartshoppersinc.com Good luck Charlie "awwright, who cut the cheese??"- in the back seat of the Pharoa's Merc after kidnapping Curt...
Im doing this on my daily driver. I only have weekends available and no garage so.... and the paint is so messed up now that it cant get any worse really Doing the test panel right now using topside boat paint. It took me a while to translate the chemical names to my language and figure out what would be a "europe" kind of Termaclad. Its Hempel boat paint, for you european guys.
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