ANYONE !!! On the slow and tedious job of stripping the paint on my truck is there a temporary rust inhibitor I can use to keep the EVIL away. I want to shoot a 2 part epoxy primer but need a couple of weekends to knock the last of the dents out and scrape the last bits of paint. I WISH I HAD A GARAGE !!!!!!!!
I thought about and have some metal prep but wouldn't that just etch the surface and create more surface area for RUST to form ????? I was planning on using metal prep to clean any inhibitor from the metal before I shoot it, along with its etching and rust converting !!!!
My understanding is Phosphoric Acid coverts rust to an inert form. It doesn't eat bare metal. More aggressive acids,like Muriatic Acid,will eat rust and bare metal.
ONE MORE SHOT !!!! There has to be a protectant I can use --- WD40 rubbed on lightly or Penetrol might work. I just am not sure what issues may arise down the road. Has anyone made any mistakes or miracle findings !!!!
I would be cautious bout using anything oil based unless you have the means to clean it really well after. The phosphoris acid rust removers are good because they convert the rust to iron phosphate - but I always find some surface rusting forming soon after using them. Unless you are close to the sea or something, maybe do all your prep, keep things dry and covered with plastic (seems to slow down the rust forming even indoors) and then do a final cleanup before primer. I have heard that putting on primer in sections, with a time interval may also cause problems at the overlap. Good luck - what truck is it? Barry
??????? ???? Don't you realize that the first thing you do before you do bodywork on fresh steel is SPRAY IT WITH EPOXY PRIMER Spray all freshly blasted and/or stripped metal first, then start your body work over/under/around/thru the epoxy primer. and don't be scared to sand or clean away the primer as you ding or weld patches in. In fact, having a colored suface on your sheetmetal helps so much when you are trying to bring metal back to a nice flat plane. Here's what you do with a dent... Get some 80 grit on your trusty flat rubber block use the block to sand across the dent which reveals that the dent is low ding the back side to bring it up closer to grade briefly resand the front to see how much closer you are ding the backside repeat process until you can sand all the epoxy primer out of the dented area using your block. Dented area is now up to grade and is perfectly flat/flush with surrounding metal. This metal bumping would not be %100 possible without a colored surface to guide you as you ding the backside. In the meantime, the other 99% of your body is safe with the epoxy primer that you will never sand off. Continue patching and dinging as necesarry. Eventually you'll end up with a repaired body that is still covered in 80% epoxy primer once all body work is done, respray the thing with your choice of primers over top the epoxy and repaired areas. You would do well to watch how a professional tackles a dent in a panel using anything as a guide coat. Since the metal must be primed before paint can properly adhere, The natural choice is to spray the whole thing and ding and repair the areas as need be using your first coat of primer as your guide coat. bodywork 101
""""On the slow and tedious job of stripping the paint on my truck """" btw, stripping old paint and body work shouldn't take that long, Sounds like you are doing this on your lonesome (not at a body shop) Use mar-hyde or similiar paint stripper available at your local body shop supply. Don't get the crappy spray on stuff, Buy a gallon jug of the brush on stuff. Brush it on as thin as possible, no need to waste it. The paint softens and peels of along with any old bondo or bodywork. Use a scrapper or putty knife to seperate the loose/softened film. Do one panel at a time and use newspapers to carch the stuff as it falls on the floor. Fast, simple and fair inexpensive -the Real mar-hyde works excellent. beats the hell out of running the compresser for days while you airgrind the paint off http://www.bondo.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=235 ..
Dude i was doin the same thing with my caddy..i have already stripped the front fenders, hood and trunk lid..used Aircraft Paint Remover..that shit is strong! but i sitll had to grind and sand..i did one peice at a time..and threw Spectra Prime on it (epoxy primer)..then i realized that i wasnt gettin it all..so i contacted a local powdercoating place here and they do media blasting..so ima take the fenders, hood and truck lid to them. Have them blast the peices in and out..and powdercoat them..since the metal is magnatized the pwder will get into all the crevices to cover it and allow for ultimate rust protection..ill sand down the parts that need work and epoxy primer them black..THIS IS THE WASY TO GO..its a littel more expensive but last much longer..
I protected my bare metal body for months with a light coat of Gibbs.Check it out at www.roadsters.com
NAPA/Permatex makes a rattle can rust inhibitor spray that works really well..Have it sitting on the cowl/windshield,firewall,dash poertion of the '29 and no rust issues..You can by it at any NAPA auto parts store..
I been workin on my 32 roadster frame all weekend .. I had some Kroil and i wiped that on with a towel and ill clean the shit outta it with laquer thinner before paint. Its gonna sit about 3 weeks and i sure dont wanna sand any more rust. Dave
aerosol etch primers work very well if you want temporary covering till you are ready to do the fill priming. It will etch the metal and provide a good bond between metal and the epoxy primer-surfacer that you will be block sanding after the body work. I did that with my convert...no problems after 5 years.
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