This may or may not be a stupid question -- a while ago there was a post on cleaning flat/matte finish cars -- alot of suggestions around -- windex,furniture polish,used oil -- my question has to do with the oil. Years back and older guy in my neighborhood who came to look at my 64 Buick when I was washin it in my driveway told me he used to use trans fluidon a rag wiped over his old car to bring out a sheen in his flat black. I tried and it worked awesome. Did it semi regularly with that car and was always happy with the results. Sold it before I ever attempted to get it painted again though. My 58 is lookin a little faded sometimes and I was wondering if I did this what the negative effects could be if I am plannin on havin the car painted in the future. Could it cause a problem or is it no different from having wax on the paint as long as it is cleaned and degreased before bodywork/paint?
This could be a problem when it is time for a re-paint. Just make sure you wash with a good detergent first, then a good cleaning with wax and grease remover. Maybe a couple of times with the wax and grease remover, and make sure you really get in there in all the nooks and crannies and tight spots before you do any sanding- it may sound like overkill but you will be sorry later if it comes back to haunt you.
When I was in my teens in the 60's well before any Armoral. We used to use this on tires to make them sheen. The problem with that was when the rubber got wet it would turn chalky white. Looked like hell. The only way to remove it would be to reapply it or scrub until your fingers fell off. I would never use it on a painted surface. Bet it will soften and remove the paint in time.
Like prl98 said, get it clean. Even once you put on fresh primer it can effect the top coat later. You may reprime and it looks fine. The top coat activators get into everything you may have fish eyes etc. Get it clean then clean it again changing to fresh rags. I buy a bug and tar remover by the gallon from a local company and it works so much better than just thinner
Yes that would be a nightmare to clean man. Anything that has silicone in it stay away from. There's nothing worse than preping a whole car and then going to spray and the whole damn thing fish-eye'in on you. I've seen a lot of people use WD-40 on their bare metal cars to keep the shine but they'll have fun trying to paint it. Even spraying a little WD-40 or something like it in a body shop isn't a good idea because it can carry in the air and stick on to anything.
What about using Gibbs penetrating oil? They claim you can paint over it with no problems. Anybody ever use this stuff?
My thick coat of DP-90 come's back with a wet sanding/scotchbrite pad. Take's a long time, good workout. Pledge will work too, but chalk's and may cause them whale-eye's.
A quick story I heard from my paint store guys: Paint store guy goes to shop to drop off something and the body guy sez come here and wacth this, it will be real funny. The painter is in the booth spraying a car and the body guy gets a can of wd-40 and sticks the little red nozzle into the intake filter and gives it a quick blast. Seconds later the painter starts screaming as the entire car is now COVERED with fish-eyes. Body guy thought it was the funniest thing ever. I heard this story from the paint store guy that was there.
Is the body guy now deceased? Or could he run faster than the painter? That's one of things that "you wouldn't wish on your worst enemy" (well maybe your worst )
Always use powdered Tide to wash your car for paint prep cleaning. It will do wonders. I have had a couple professional couses and this is what they taught. It has to be powdered and it will remove most everything. Good luck for all that try to do their own work....
i worked in a body shop and got used parts from a junck yard that the parts were covered in trans fluid wash the heck out of it and sanded them they still fisheyed i hate having to repaint stuff.
I would be really hesitent to spray over somehting I knew trans fluid had been applied to. Before I came near painting it I'd at least run a DA over it, if not take it all the way down and reprime before I base. Thats a real sticky situation if you ask me and I don't think I would recommend if I was thinking of painting it later on. Why not just spray a flat clear instead of trans fluid.
Old bristle type automatic carwashes were the best thing I ever found. Would make my satin black look new. The scouring action of the brushes works fabulous to remove the whitish layer. Also a great way to get handprints out of primer.
Ideally I would just like to paint the car -- but finances don't allow for that right now -- so I wouldn't bother paying to have a clear sprayed on it. I should clarify that I am NOT a painter and it is one of those things I think is left better to the pros. I've sprayed flat on my own cars but I wouldnt be up to the paint job I think the Olds deserves. More than anything its a case of it being spring and finally gettin the car out after a long winter and wanting to spruce it up a little. All in all the way it looks right now isn't horrible I just remember how deep and black my 64 looked when I would do the trans fluid.
Understood. Even still I don't know that I would go for the trans fluid thing if you want the paint job to come out quality. No matter how good of a painter someone is, a bad prep yields a bad result.
That's pretty much what I've decided -- better to leave well enough alone so when I shell out the dough for the fancy paint job I want I'll know it will come out right.
Oh man, was it me? I actually did this back in the 70's at a Chevy dealership I was working at. We had this painter that was a major jerk, all the rest of us wanted to run him off so we would do all type of shit to the guy. We even stayed late one night and sprayed 2 gallons of clear lacquer over a freshly primed and guidecoated Impala he was painting complete, he spent 3 days block sanding that barge!
If you like the nice sheen the tranny fluid provides, try doing a light buff on the paint. This will take off the oxided(flat) paint or primer leaving a nice dull shine.Had a 51 Buick in DP90 that would chalk up real nice,when it looked too grey thats when I would hit it with the buffer. It's easier to clean buffing compound than it is to pay your painter twice as much to paint your oily car! I own Web's Kustom Touch Auto Body,I have seen some Weird Crap!
That should work quite well. Just don't use a rough cut. This isn;t a clear coast you're buffing, consider it a base and if you cut it you're screwed. Maybe a glaze or swirl remover will do the trick.
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