We've heard about EvapoRust, mollasses, vinegar, and electrolysis... all great for derusting metal... but what about chrome. How about Oxalic Acid? It's been mentioned on here before, but here's proof. Check it out. Wow. http://www.vintagebmx.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=004702
All right - I resd the whole article - VERY COOL! You wouldn't happen to know the best ratio for mixing the wood bleach/Oxalic Acid to would you?
I use wheel acid from our detail shop. We buy it in 5 galllon containers. Works awesome. Any detail supply house has it, pretty inexpensive too. Just don't get it on your clothes, skin or in your eyes!! Tim
not all chrome is created equal// theres a huge differance between schwinn chrome and most other chrome// so i wouldn't expect that to have anywhere near the results on ford or chevy stuff
The acid has merely removed the rust from the surface, it will be back. The pits and chinks are evidence that the chrome is broken. The worst problem with acids is that they generally remove the chrome and expose the nickel underneath. As regards wheel brightener, I consider any shop that uses that stuff should close its doors. It destroys aluminum and should be illega I've seen more cracks between lug holes on semi's where that stuff has been used than I can count. Having said all of that, if it helps you avoid a rechrome job for a year or two, good deal. Chrome doesn't come cheap these days.
I have a coupla schwinns that aren't valuable enough to justify a rechrome, this might make them presentable. I would imagine waxing the bageezus out of the parts afterwards would help with the inevitable.
S.T.- Please tell me you are not on the clock, playin on Tom's dime. (Just Kiddin). Got the spindle stops yesterday. Thanks D.W.
Something you want to do if your thinking about using Oxalic Acid. Keep the shit out of the garage and sealed up!!! It will remove rust when soaked or wiped on but will RUST EVERYTHING IN SITE if you have a container open in a closed garage in no time!!!! Use it outside and seal up when not using. I know of a buddy that had a model A just came beck from the stripper sitting in bare metal along with his fully built chassie (bare metal) Well he forgot to send a a part to the stripper so he'll do it in the shop with some "Oxalic Acid" bath. Work great.. Came in the next morning and there wasn't a bare chunk of metal around. It rusted up in less then 15 hours!!!! No shit!!! and it was everything!!
Chrome does come cheap these day, just not here in the U.S. A company down the street sends parts overseas and back cheaper then he can have it done here, unbeliveable!!! Oh yea they do secondary operations on parts from overseas!!! so parts are ship 3 times!!
Chrome is a flash coating less than 0.001" thick and is purely decorative. Triple chrome has a copper base, followed by nickel which is where the rust resistance comes from and also the main expense besides the metal-prep labor. I quit buying Sears Craftsman when I figured out they stopped doing the copper, nickel, chrome process on their hand tools unless you step up to what they now call the pro series tools. Anyone want some unused rusty Craftsman sockets?(JK)
Never ever use steel wool on chrome. You'll push steel into the pores and the rust will come back three times as bad, splits the chrome fast. Use copper, or a brass wool if it's really bad. At the end of the day a good polish will do the job perfectly well. It just takes more time but it's worth the investment if you want your chrome to last.
Actually works well, the magic ingredient in Coke, or pepsie for that matter is phosphoric acid. Same as in Naval jelly.
Coke works good for freeing up seized motors too. Just pour a little through the sparkplug holes and let it sit a day or two.....
polisher; what causes certain chrome(d) items to rust and pit? Sometimes I see 50 year old bumpers that have been exposed to the elements most of their life, that come "back to life" with nothing more than some soap, water and polish; then right beside it, a 20 year old bumper with the chrome pealing off. Have present day chrome plating methods changed? Or are they "cutting steps" to save money? What do you recommend for cleaning and polishing chrome?? (that isn't showing signs of rust)
Once there's rust on the surface of the chrome you cannot get rid of it. Chrome itself is porous - that's why good chrome jobs are first copper plated then nickel plated and then chrome plated. Hence the phrase "Triple plated" Cheap jobs miss out the copper and nickel layers. It's then just a matter of time until the rust sets in.
Thanks polisher; time to throw out all the "Super chrome polishes!" (that aren't from you! ) BTW - your web site is a real "gold mine" of information!
I was searching Google for a rust remover & Oxalic acid and it got me to this old Hamb thread SinisterCustom's post # 13 ketchup & aluminum foil balled up to remove rust Try a TEST PIECE FIRST on chrome it can scratch but the rust comes off, squirted ketchup on the part & rubbed with the foil, kept rotating the balled up foil and washing the black mess off with water now and then, it worked pretty good on rusted bare metal & a rusty peeling chrome bumper easy on the hands & easy clean up some photos before on another car after 5 to 10 minutes spent 5 minutes on the bumper guard not to bad for the time spent