Hey guys, probably a retarted quesiton, but here's the situation. I needed to replace 3 wheel studs on my 9" and ran into a issue in the process. Its a ' 79 Lincoln big bearing rear, yes with the "non traditional" Disc brakes. TWell since 3 of the studs were bad I bought 10 and plan on replacing all of them. I poped theaxle out after removing the caliper braket/axle retaining stud nuts. well as you can see from the pics the bearings/ bracket are retained on the axle by this fucking metal bushing...the round solid bearing race...etc....HOW do I remove/re install it and any info or advice is greatly appreciated!!!!! The bearings appear to be ok, and I've tried using a BFH (Big F*ing hammer) to beat the bearings/cylinder down off the axle towards the splines but the sucker wont budge.....
It looks to me like you have to have the whole thing pressed off buy using a special fixture under the casting, i.e between the flange and casting.You probally can cut the bearing retainer ring off, then it will come apart easier, but then you will have to get a new retainer to press the whole thing back together. If you have to do that, then you might as well install a new bearing & seal.Good luck.
Yep, thanks man, Deuce Roadster said the same seems to be the answer. Well you learn new stuff on here everyday!! Thanks guys. This throughly sucks, these are 28 spline axle/carrier on a 3.00 open rear. I was planning on upgrading to a Detriot Posi w/ 4.30s, moser/strange 31 spline axles. DAMN and all I wanted to do for now was replace the studs/bearings and seal then upgrade everything later....at this rate I might as well do it all.
That big metal collar after the bearing is what holds it all in place. It is pressed on. Be careful you do not break that casting holding the caliper bracket. Not easy to replace.
You scribe a line across that collar,then take a sharp chisel and that "BFH",hit the chisel and split the collar.Now remove bearing and brake caliper mount.Replace studs,reinstall mount,install new seal,bearing and preferally press on new collar(or hammer on with pipe a in a pinch)DO NOT HIT CASTING with hammer they are brittle and hard to replace!
yep if there is a easier way i would like to know the trick, ive always cut them or cut alil and smacked them with a big chisel. im gonna put some of those brakes on my early bronco and the next time im gonna cut the caliper bracket in half so you dont have to pull the bearings to pull the bracket off
Even if you cut the caliper bracket in half the bracket acts as an outer grease seal correct? and how do you plan to keep both halfs together? I was reading on a Bronco site about using Explorer rear discs/calipers. However I would except i just bought new 79 Lincoln Versalies/F. Granada calipers, rotors and pads.....=(
the bracket bolts backs together with the stock bolts and the 4 that hold it to the axle flange, bearings are sealed
Thats an intresting idea....mabye I'll split the bracket when I put it all back together... another quesiton, in another 9" Ford thread 35-3 window, listed these part numbers for ford Big bearing rears.... Aside from asking the the 17 year old kid at advance/ autozone to lookup whats suppose to be the part number on his computer, do these numbers apply to all Big Bearing rears including Lincoln and Explorer? big bearing rear end bearings are P88128R , wheel seals are 15142 small bearing rear end bearings are PRW207CCRA , wheel seals are 13738 pinion seal for either is 18833
My son and his buddy was running one of these 9"ers in their dirt track car. There was one place on the cast bracket where the studs almost clear. The comon practice at our local track was to take a carbide cutter on a die grinder and clearance that one close location so the studs would clear. Then you just rotated the bracket so each stud was lined up with the "notch". Their rules required 3" long studs. They also made a two piece 1/4" plate for holding the bearing into the axle, seemed the factory plate was to thin to take the punishment of the big, wide sticky tires were putting on the plates through the turns. Um, should anyone be looking for one of these complete unmolested disc brake rear ends, I have one sitting out back I'd be happy to move on for cheap. Its located in the 61032 zip. PM me. Gene
Gene, Thanks a million!!! I spun the bracket and thought the same thing!! LEAVE it up to hot rodders/dirt track boys to get it done! I'll post pics when I finish!! Great info on the plate idea too, they may not be super sticky but my pair of old M/H's Racemasters are gonna punish this rear eventually!
Great info on the plate idea too, they may not be super sticky but my pair of old M/H's Racemasters are gonna punish this rear eventually![/quote] I don't know if I would be concerned about the plates on a street driven car. Those dirt track cars put a huge side load on the axles and bearings. Enough so that the bolts on the left side can and do pull through the factory plates! They even have to tack weld the bearing retainers on the left axle to the axle! The press fit isn't enough to keep the bearings in place! Big side load. The 1/4" plate is a pita to make and to install. Also, you want to be sure to only put one notch in the housing (per side) for your stud clearance, no sence on making anything weaker then it needs to be. Gene
Gene, I just ran out to the garage and spun the plate again, there are two possible locations I can notch it but the one looks like it will be a stronger location. I checked to make sure the new studs and a punch will beable to knock them into the axle. Seems like it should work. the only concern of mine being that the calip. bracket has the recession for the axle plate. shouldnt really matter with the rest of the meat on the bracket, but like you said dont want to hurt it too much. On the same note Speedway sells front brake brackets for use with F-body/80s GM calipers for their front brake kits and they only use two front mounting bolts for those brackets so if all four run through the bracket and retain it to the axle plate it should be fine. This goes back to Slddnmatt's idea of cutting the bracket in half. Once its bolted its solid. Ideas? comments?
On another token, if I were to split the collar who sells replacemnts and any idea of part numbers from NAPA/Advance? Then just heat collar in oven at 400* for 2 hrs, drive on with pipe...lol dont have a press..... thats how long it took for the inner race adapters for my 40 Ford spindle disc kit to expand enough to be driven on "carefully"
IIRC, that collar comes with the bearing assembly. When I worked at the machine shop in high school, I must have changed a hundred of those. Usually I would do what someone else posted - just split it with a sharp chisel and a BFH. That sumbich has to come off before the old bearing can be pressed off anyway, then it gets pressed on after a new bearing is reinstalled.
I think I would just put one notch at the most beefy place and only remove enough material to get the stud out and back in. That bracket is cast, I believe, but should have enough meat left that the notch shouldn't casue a problem. I would be pretty nervious about cutting the bracket in two pieces, most aftermarket caliper brackets are cut from 3/8" steel plate, which is likely stronger then your cast bracket. Also, the only way I have seen the bearing retaining ring available new was with the bearing. If you cut the bearing retaining ring off, you might as well remove the bearing and install 5 new studs, a new seal, the bearing and retaining ring and be done with it. The bearing is also pressed onto the shaft, so you will have to cut it off or have it pressed off also, then both need to be pressed (or both heated and pounded) back on. Gene
price out the lincoln brake replacement pieces. a friend of mine just finished one of those rears and was shocked by the prices on calipers etc. He decided he would have been $ ahead to swap to a different brake on the rear after he was done with the whole thing.
Check with your local parts house NAPA here would change bearings bought from them for 10$a side or it can be done in a home press with a bearing plate I was taught to split bearing races and retainers like told here.It does work well right up until the day you have to go and get a piece of bearing retainer pried out of your wrist bone at the ER!just once teaches you to do things differently.
The Jalopy Journal
