There are a billion threads on welders here. I'm like everyone else here who wants a weld shop at home but on a reasonable budget. I would LOVE a nice TIG, and I could use the stick for angle iron to build tables/racks, etc. but the price is a killer, and I would have to buy a thumb control for a lot of the on-car shit I'd need it for. So, I'm settling for a mig that will do single pass welds to 3/16" and bodywork spot welding, maybe use flux core for the nastier shit, and an oxy/acetylene torch for the rest. I'm thinking of either a Millermatic 180 or Lincoln 180c. What do you guys think of these welders? The Lincoln has a spool gun for aluminum for only $200 vs. Miller's spoolmate for $550. Lincoln's got a cool spot timer for this kit for pretty cheap too. I've done a lot of looking around, online websites, etc. Here's what I think is a great way to go for new welders: I took a welding class at a local community college, and there are local welder dealers who support it by offering discounts. Class cost me about 180 bucks and I learned shielded, stick, torch, flux-core, plasma and some OA. With the school discount, the local suppliers will sell me these welders for cheaper than any online store!! Example is the Millermatic 180 for under $700! And a 10% discount on any and all supplies. And they're local. I'm gonna price the Lincoln today. A Miller Syncrowave 200 with running gear comes in under 2k at the local stores with the school discount. I think with the MIG, the OA torch, tanks, cart, and misc. tools, running 220 to my garage, I can easily put a good setup together for under 2k. So, take a class and see if they're supported with discounts by local welding stores. It's worth it!
i have a miller econoTIG and i weld anything and everything with it you can find them for around 1000 or less used alot of times i have never had a need for a thumb control...just be creative with where you put the foot pedal and remember you dont always need it under your foot elbow, leg, arm, head...anything works! i am a strong supporter of using a TIG...its the most versatile and most controlled way of welding at home. i have a miller MIG but other then testing it out when we bought it...i have never touched it all im saying is...dont write off the TIG good luck on your search Zach
Good advice on the student discount. I'm taking a class on mig/tig right now and it qualifies me for 10% off supplies. I don't think that officially applies to buying a machine, but I think with a little negotiating I could probably talk them into it. On a side note, the instructor showed us air carbon arc gouging last night. He put a nice quarter inch deep gouge in a half inch plate in one pass. It was pretty impressive.
I've tig'd a little but I don't know hardly anything about the different machines. What's better about water cooled unit? Sorry to high jack -zipp
I have a Lincoln SP-175 mig unit. Its about 4 years old now and still works very well. The same model goes for around $1k nowadays. I also have a Lincoln TIG/stick combo unit, the model number escapes me right now and I cant check it as I'm currently at work. But it was right around $1800 two years ago. Now sure what they go for now, but unless you have a definitive use for a TIG/stick unit, go with the MIG. Miller, Lincoln, Hobart all are good machines, just find the one within your price range and enjoy!
Check out www.millerwelds.com. Lot of good educational stuff there about the different processes and welders.
Zach, how is the econotig on sheetmetal? My welding shop told me that the econoTig wont go low enough on amperage to weld sheetmetal without burning through, and suggested I purchase a model that ran around $3500, which cant happen for a long time.
IF you really think you will be welding & building cool stuff for a long time - bite the bullet & buy a syncro 200....Put in the time TO LEARN how to use this machine....The money you will MAKE with this machine will alow you to buy a small MIG & an 0&A set up down the road....I bought my 200 when they were still called ( DIALARC ) & ITS been workin for me for 25 years. JMO Rich Pauza
the econo tig doesnt go super low...but theres ways around it... i have welded rezor blades with it and less then .035 aluminum the key to doing the thin stuff is a soft feel with the pedal...really learn how to get back off it when you see the puddle getting a bit overboard i always use really thin tungstun and put a longer point on it. i use MIG wire for filler and sort of melt the filler and it it work into the base metal....rather then dipping it into the puddle all of these measures are really for SUPER thin stuff though for sheetmetal on a car i have fusion welded ALOT and had no problem...just set the dial on the machine to zero and stay light on the pedal the other problem with the econotig is that it doesnt go super high...but if you bevel your joints and build up the weld in multiple passes you can weld anything...I've done spindles and pitman arms just fine it does get a bit hot after a while on heavy stuff seeing as it doesnt have a water cooled torch but its just a matter of taking a break now and then i think for the money you cant beat it also remember....with a TIG you only need pure argon for steel or aluminum...with a MIG you need to buy a bottle or pure for aluminum and a mix for steel... Zach
Thanks a ton Zach. Im going to keep my eye out for a used one now. Ive wanted to learn to TIG for quite a while now, so this should work out great.
I am an old-time welder and car buff--for home and restoration you will better served with the versatility of a TIG. I have acquired 1 of each over the last 40 years. I only use the MIG for Heavy stuff and seldom use the stick, except for rusty heavy metal. Hold out for the TIG until you can pickup one for a bargain. 53poor
A friend works for a local school board bus repair garage and goes to tool auctions for the board. On the side ,he'll by stuff to re-sale himself. Last time he scored a skid full of factory recon'ed Clark migs. My end for a 180 gas was $230.00. I know it's a Clark, but it will work good enough for the girls I go out with!
Wait a second... Did you just trip on the stoop and fall in here with your mouth open...? Its called an INTRO... you really should look into it... I'll agree with the verstility part, but we're talking about guys that are just starting out. It takes two hands to TIG weld, where with a wire-drive you can hold your work with one hand and tack with the other. More guys than not will fry the edges back on thin material before it will fuse. I've even seen noobs plunge their tungsten in a panic just to make a tack. For ease of use and out of position welding (off the bench) get a MIG... A bottle of Argon is 3-times more $$$ than CO2, also.... TIG welding is much more specialized, and I think it doesn't fit the bill for most guys just starting out in the craft. I'm a very staunch advocate of learning to weld from a qualified welding instructor, and if you can get a discount on machines and consumables, that's a great plus...! Thanks for the post EXTREMIST... good info for new guys to look into.... JOE
I have a Miller 180 MIG....great machine for the money. I also have a Lincoln 235 Precision Tig. My only complaint with this machine was the torch getting too hot. I figured out that the torch that comes with the machine is rated to like 120 amps, which is why I was roasting my hand. I picked up a bigger torch for higher amp applications and no more hot hand. The only bitch is switching them back and forth .
Welder buying law: Try to hold out/save up to buy the next bigger machine than you think you need, you'll end up wanting to do more and more and start wishing you had. I love my MM251, but hardly use it any more, 99% of the time I use the Syncro180. Lots to read here. Good luck... http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3 .
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