IM GONNA FLAKE MY ROOF ON MY WAGON TOMARROW. I HAVE A DRY FLAKE SYSTEM FROM OL SKOOL FLAKE .WHERE YOU SPRAY A CLEAR WITH A SLOW REDUCER TO TO SLOW THE DRY TIME. THEN BLOW DRY FLAKE BUT IT WASTE ALOT OF FLAKE . MY QUESTION IS SHOULD I USE THIS SYSTEM ? I WAS TOLD I COULD USE MY DEVILBISS HVLP PAINT GUN WITH A 1.5 TIP AS LONG AS I MIXED THE FLAKE AND CLEAR GOOD .THEN SPRAYED FRONT TO BACK SIDE TO SIDE PATERNS ANY SUGGESTIONS?
thanks for the computer lesson next time maybe you can tell me if i misspelled anythig this is a hot rod fourm whats the deal with you i asked for paint advice not typing fucking computer geek
It's simply really hard to read all caps. Simple eitiquette. Now I have no idea about your question but I'm a sucker for flake. Post pics when you are done.
I sprayed flake recently, I used clear basecoat as the medium. I just put a bunch of flake in the clear basecoat and started putting on some coats, and it took alot of coats. But I finally got it to look good, then I cleared it, sanded it, cleared it some more, and cut and buffed. I guess putting it in the clear is common too, but I cant imagine how thick it would be by the time you got enough flake on there to look covered, even over the same colored basecoat.
I really don't see why people get pissed off about caps.. I think it's stupid, who cares!!!!! Anyways try and do a search first, people here have discussed it before, don't quote me, but it might have been bad stuff...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44073&highlight=dry+flake+spray+gun Try the search option, found this, hope it helps...
Trampking... this is our forum, you're a new guy. Hell, I'm still a new guy at less than 1000 posts. If someone says turn off the capslock, you'd be wise to do it, otherwise your arse will get busted outa here in no time.
Really i think its personal preference over anything here. If you are used to sprayin it by mixing into the clear then do it that way, but you end up building up a lot more clear that way tryin to get your coverage of flake how you want it to look where as when you use the Dry Spray method the only clear build up in mill thickness you get is just in covering the flake in the end. I have been a dealer up here for Old School Flake for a couple years now and any one that has tried the gun has liked it. My painter just did a dunebuggy completely in flake and he said it used way less clear and less flake then he would have if he had mixed it in the clear in order to get that same coverage. He loves that flakebuster system. If you have the gun dialed in properly it isnt blasting the flake everywhere, it is only giving a snowfall effect and droppin the flake exactly where you want it to go. Thats just my two cents tho, i am only goin by what my customers have told me as i know they have liked the way it works.
Tru-Dat. http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/howto/135_0308_flake/ But if you're set on using the Flakebuster gun, do your homework. I think OSF sells a "How-to" DVD for the Flakebuster. Here's a thread for reference. I've heard lots of people say it sucks. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75778
I've used the flake buster gun many times, and it works out much better than the convensional way. Definitly uses less flake, super coverage, and less clear to bury the flake. The one thing that I do though is after applying the flake dry, I put some in a clear and spray a couple coats on the conventional way. This seems to even the flake out better. Than I proceed with the final clearcoats. I've had great results using this meathod. Jerry
I mix my flake in a sealing clear PPG DBU 500 since it has a fast dry time like paint and doesn't sag like clear coat will. They say 3oz of flake per quart of paint. The first time I sprayed it it my clear coat and the edges of my roof have a little heavier flake from where it sagged down the roof towards the rain gutter. When I started spraying it in the sealing clear it looked better and more even. Two to Three good coats with flake and covered with 3-4 coats of clear. Kevin
I have done it both ways, dry and mixed in with the clear. My devilbiss 1.6 tip really couldn't handle it. The dry way worked better. I shot the slow clear then hit it with the dry flake, then slow clear agian and flake again and then more clear. I then let it dry and sand it smooth, then apply more clear to totally bury it and then wetsand and buff that final clear.
What color flake are you using? The tangerine flake I got from Ol' Skool Flake on my roof has faded a LOT....I wouldn't use their flake again.
I am curious here so don't take offense but when did people start flaking the roofs of cars? next , why just the roof? not enough bucks to do the whole car? I am an old guy and this is an old car place , and I dont recall ever seeing this in the day so help me out here......thanks and good luck ...
Well actually a lot of 60s type mild kustoms ran with a flaked roof. I had seen it on a couple of the Watson cars in the good old digest magazines of the day and is where i had gotten the idea to flake the roof on my 53. I did it as a different 2 tone, dark purple flake roof with a light purple suede body to be different. Trampking, in answer to your question as to what pressure to set the flakebuster at, its between 3 and 7psi, the lower the better. the best way to judge if you have it set right is just to observe how the flake comes out of the gun, it should look just like a gentle snow fall.... NOT blastin it everywhere. With the gentle snowfall effect it can be directed where you want it rather then every orfice in your shop if you have the pressure set up higher... keep psi low... You can get a DVD from old School Flake on how to use the gun properly and it shows you some trix for gettin the flake to lay nice as well. Or feel free to call them as Rikk is a great guy and can answer questions as well as he is the big dog there thats been doin it for years.
After playing with a bunch of flake from other people and it not laying or blingin' as good as with OSF & the flakebuster dry system We ( I do the bitch work, not the real-deal painting) only shoot it dry. You can shoot the OSF wet, but we have gotten much better resullts dry more than throwing it into the clear. as far as the PSI, I cant remember what we have shot it at in the past. give them a call and ask for Rick. he's the man over there as far as "what they did in the day" with flake, who cares... traditional hot rods are one thing, kustoms are another... there were more ugly-ass kustoms that should never be duplicated than nice ones.
I see flake used as an accent now. Used next to some stage one paint you can get some matching color or some great contrast in both color and finish. But I don't know if this was ever done next to primers of the day
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