I have a 54 Chev with a 235 that keeps dying when I come to a stop. I can turn the car on and it will idle, but when I drive away and come to a stop it dies. I have replaced the carb (Carter), plugs, hell everthing in the engine bay has been replaced. Car does putter as if the timing is out but not sure if that is the problem. I have messed with the fuel mixture and nothing. The only way to keep it from dying is to idle the car high. Could the vacuum advance cause this problem? I have been trying to get this car running for months. I have missed all the DuckHuddle events in Austin. Any help on this would be greatly apreciated.
99% sure its fuel pressure or volume related. check your clear filter for clogs (you have one, right?) and put a pressure gauge on it, see whats the weak link. when you stop, the little bit of fuel sloshes away from the venturi, float level could be low.
I have recently replaced the fuel pump. I have also checked the compression whick is around 80 except for #4 which reads around 98 or so. I recently replaced #4 piston and rings. The car will drive with no hesitation for a long period of time. It only dies when I come to a stop.
Have you checked the sphincter valve? Sometimes those things get clogged and restrict flow. Try flushing it out. There is a product that you can get at the local parts store. Just a little at a time because you don't want it to blow out at once. Will really make one hell of a mess!!! No, but seriously guys. This guy has been trying his hardest to get this car on the road and any help would be greatly appreciated. We know it is something simple just don't know what......... Sheep Shaggers baby! Sheep Shaggers!!
How do I check the venturi float level? And is there a way to set the level. This is my first Carter carb. This is a manual choke carb. and I have not seen a vacume connection other than the one coming from the vac. advance.
It sounds like the float is set too high. If the car dies when you come to a fairly quick stop, but will run if you stop easy, then you probably need to lower the float. This will shut off fuel into the carb sooner, and stop the excess fuel from spilling over into the engine and flooding it out when you come to a stop. Unless the fuel bowl is on the OTHER side of the venturi, then 53sled got it nailed. Think of how you adjust the water level in the commode in your bathroom-same deal. Hope this helps.
I have a stock type one barrel carb that came off my old 235 if you guys want to play around with it. Ill let you borrow it. Its even got a fancy little chrome air cleaner on it.
What's up there 54BOMB. Nice ride from Monday night at the Dog & Duck. This is the 54 I told you about that my buddy has. He just bought a new carb over the weekend and still having this problem as before.
It was good to finally meet you , I was expecting the giant hat like in your avatar, haha , and man you got one nice Rivi. I bet its either a vacuum problem or a timing problem, have you put a timing light on it? Does the problem happen everytime or just when hot? Most of my carb problems have ended up being timing and ignition problems.
how do you properly set the float on the carter? I know beaner knows how to use a commode! Fuel pump is new like everything else. You definitely need to put that clear filter back on Martin. If he decides to install a pressure gauge, should it go in the line from the pump b4 the filter ?
I have not put a timing light to it. I think its not set properly and thats why I have a miss. Could bad timing be causing the car to die at a stop?
If we put a guage on the fuel line what should it read? Also, how can you tell if the vacuum advance is good?
Does your dizzy have that little knob on the bottom of it? my old 235 had some kind of advance knob thing you could adjust. I only had that engine for a little bit, and then yanked it out so I dont know too much about it.
Yes, It has a little round knob. What the hell is it and how does it work? Now, this may be a stupid question. What is a dizzy? Is it the cone looking thing (vacume advance)?
When it dies does it start right up again? Does it have to crank and crank and crank or what. lots of black exhaust?
Yes. Not that is your problem, but yes it can do this. My bike will run balls out with the timing off as long as I'm going but die or sputter as soon as I stop. Did you replace the carb after you started having this problem? I hate to point out the obvious but if not, it's not too large or jetted improperly is it?
If it's like all the commodes I've seen, and most carbs, you just bend the arm a little. Most carb kits come with a little paper ruler. Fuel pressure should probably be 3-4 pounds. Won't take much to push gas past the needle. But if you had too much pressure, you would have a problem when ever the engine was running, not just when you come to a stop (and fuel moves around in the carb fuel bowl and is causing it to die).
I had the same problem. A $16 carb rebuild kit fixed it. Truth be told, I probably didn't need the kit. Just tearing down the carb and re-setting the floats would most likely fix it. Sorry, it just registered that you replaced the carb. 2 bad carbs in a row, maybe?
when it idles, look down the carb, does the fuel just drip if so, Try cleaning out the actual venturi tubes, I have a jeep with a 2bl carter that did the same thing, you can even make them a little bigger, can't remember the actual size though, it was'nt much.
i have the same problem..but mine dies when i slow down to turn a corner too..does your do that too? or just when you come to a complete stop? I am driving it with high idle so that it wont turn off too..
You got it skyrodder. My car will die whenever I slow down to take a turn or to make a complete stop. I have a brand new Carb. and really don't want to open it since it's still under warranty. I know it's something very minor that I am over looking but can't figure it out. Are there any good old school machanics in the Austin area that would be willing to look to take a look at it?
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