Seems obvious but mine aren't budging. I bought a puller kit from the cheap tool store, put a bunch of load on the wrench, even hit it with the propane torch... it's stuck. The shoes aren't dragging... Any advice on a "good way" to remove the rear drum (wide five) from about a '37 rear end??? Thanks (ps- search came up empty)
There is a guy that sells a good looking tool on the bay. About $60. It is necessary to pull them off at the groove on the hub rather than the wheel studs. Hitting the axle in does no good and will bend the threads. The axles are very soft and distort easily. I am planning to try the Harbour Freight bearing seperator and using a bar puller on that. Might work or might bend the HF stuff. It is easier to pull the hubs off than push them. That is why getting the load on the end of the hub is important. Pushing kind of bunches the metal up and does not slide well. We need a HAMB loner tool for this. Pay a deposit and get the tool. send it back and get a refund. Deposite is twice the buying price. Might work.
a bfh won't fix it but if you hit it hard enough you can bust it off and then replace the drum t bone
If you do a search you should find some more info. There was just a post on the same subject. good luck Me-oh
Thanks for the quick replies... I bought the HF bearing seperator, it's sitting in the groove, using the 'H' shaped piece to pull on the seperator... nada... I'm tearing it apart, was a farm find, hoping to reuse (or sell) the parts if they're any good... I guess I'm not using the right words when I searched it, 'cuz they come up empty.
Yeah they can be a bastard to get off, Once I got the puller as tight as I could get it I had to hit on the end of the puller till it brok lose. Me-oh
http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151424 There's the link to the old post. May be to late. Hope it helped. Me-oh
I had the same problem last week..I have a good puller however the shoes were froze to the drums..I unbolted the wheel cylinder and the lower two adjusting bolts..( I was lucky as mine have the outside nuts on them) then everything came off together...I was sooo easy..Hope this helps.
The correct way to do it without screwin anything up; Winfield Tool Works 437 West Broadway, Port Jefferson, NY 11777 They make the repro KR Wilson puller Worth the investment!!!
My cheapo bearing splitter/puller from HF did the trick last night...just used a longer wrench and a little more umph... Don't know yet if it was worth the trouble though, both axles have some scoring on the taper, and one had been shimmed...I guess they ran them loose for a while...it was found under an old trailer... I suppose the inside taper on the drum could be hosed too... I'll clean them up and see if there's any salvagable bits
Fe25 is right on. I use a bearing splitter with a puller. The splitter will grab the hub end of the drum. Pull hard on it, whack the end of the puller a couple of times. If no luck, apply heat to the hub. Careful, not too much and give another whack. If nothing happens, let it cool and repeat. Like Fe25 says, a few of those cycles and it'll bust loose. Leave constant pressure on the hub, don't ever loosen it up. I fussed with one in the evening that wouldn't come no matter what I did. I left the puller on overnight and went out the next day an was working in another part of the shop and "bang!" the bitch broke loose all by itself. Scared the shit out of me. I thought the car had fallen off the jackstands or something. Just be patient, keep pressure on it, do the heat cool thing and it'll come.
I have one of the drum pullers you are looking for it will work on fords, chryslers, studie, willie, and any other rear drums that are held on with the center nut. and i think i left a check mark on email me when i joined up. if not I'll check back on this page in 2 days or so.
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