Engine test stand--anybody build one?

Thinkin' about building an engine test stand(run-in).Has any body built one?Got pix to post? Let's see.

Fuzz

 

built this one last year, saved a shitload of trouble shooting problems. any questions feel free to PM me

 

How about a detailed article on how you built this? I'm sure a lot of us would like to build one of these.

 

I'll prob. be building one in the next couple of months.
The 'problem' with Mopar-engines is that the starter-ringgear is on the convertor. So in order to be able to start the engine, you'll either have to mount a manual flywheel on the crankshaft, or a stallconvertor (with complete transmission) behind it.

 

Guy posted a video the other day with his RUNNING fathead sitting on a furniture dolly - probably not quite what you had in mind...

 

I have built one before. I am a mopar guy so I kept a few bellhousings handy so I can mount the starter, and a neutral balance 6 bolt flywheel. For cast crank engines I just bolted a B&M flexplate behind the flywheel.

Other than that you just need a power source (I used a battery with a charger on it), some guages to monitor, a radiator to cool, and a stand. I used a big box fan that I mounted in front of the rad to pull air through the rad and away from the engine so that it was easier to work on.

 

Was that the one that DIDN'T have the water pumps hooked up??
Not sure I would want to "fire up" a flathead DRY!

It sure did sound "tough!!"

 

I built one for latheads out of an old 40 frame that the back was really rotted. Used the trans crossmember forward, that way you can mount the engine, tranny, radiator, even pedals. Makes it nice, you can run the engine, then push the clutch in and check the tranny. Add some casters on the bottom, and your done.

 

I did one where the radiator(with fan), battery, Ignition system, fuel system, and gauges were mounted on a steel tool cart. The engine and trans on a seperate stand. The engine mounted low to the ground, and ran headers with mufflers. Worked great, break in cams, hot valve adjustment, check for leaks, etc.
BTW the carts don't roll around when the engine is running, for those that are wondering

Craig

 

Do you really need a test stand? Take a look at this.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v465/barnman/?action=view&current=MVI_0898.flv

 

Yeah,I think I want one.Don't want to go the route of that running flathead.I just got a FREE steel table/cart from work that I can use as the foundation to start with.Though this is on back burner for a while,I'll post pix when done.Got to get back to replacing floor,and rockers on Coronet.I've got to finish that so body can go back on frame for top chop.Thanks for info----HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

Fuzz

 

Here's one.....

 

That looks like a well built test-stand.

 

Mr. Mike Zenor has (or at least has access to) a pretty cool one. I know, 'cuz I seen it on the Internets in a full color moving picture show. Maybe he'll share?

 

I built mine using a 2"X3" base and heavy duty casters. It's for Chevy engines but after measuring I can build some adaptors for other engines. 4 uprights, 2 to locate the engine side mounts, 2 to locate the back of the engine. I used circle track solid angle mounts which come out flat from the sides and rest on the two uprights (uprights have a 1" solid block inserted and welded in them drilled and tapped for a 1/2" NC bolt. The 1/2" bolts go through the mount and thread into the block in the upright.
The rear mounts are circle track mounts which are sandwiched between the block and bellhousing with a flat pad for mounting.(same hardware as the front mounts). This gives you a 4 mount system, solid mounted.
At the back of the platform is a metal battery box which has a H.D. deep cycle truck battery that does not need recharging even when multiple starts are performed and has the reserve for any ignition system you want to use. I've made a generic wiring harness to hook up the engine to the control panel
For cooling I don't use a radiator. Instead, I plumb a garden hose into the inlet of the water pump and fabricate a plate for the water outlet on the intake with a valve and fitting for another garden hose.
You turn on the water and open the valve on the intake. when water runs out of the outlet hose you close the valve but leave the supply hose turned on.
At the back of the platform is a 2x2 upright with a 1/8" plate mounted at a 45 degree angle which has a on/off switch, starter button, oil pressure gauge, water temp gauge and a tach. I've got locations for other gauging but haven't used any other than these so far. The oil pressure is a direct pressure read unit (not electric) plumbed with -4 AN hardware so any fluctuation in oil pressure is instantly reflected in the reading.. On the side of the panel there is a throttle lever with friction pivot so you can leave the engine running at a predetermined RPM hands off. The rod going to the carb is 1/4" cr w/ heim joints on each end. At the front of the stand I've mounted an old Moon tank and have braded fuel line to run to the fuel pump.
I have everything set so the instant the engine fires it keeps running (timing preset, carb full of gas, lifters preadjusted) so you aren't fooling around starting a fresh engine mutiple times without oil being splashed on new cam components. upon firing I set the idle at 2,000 and don't shut it off for about 20 minutes. I'll occasionally wing the throttle just to give the components a different speed exposure and to better seat the rings.
After the temp gauge starts to move up I watch closely and start to open the outlet valve to prevent over heating. After temp stabilizes you can fine tune your operating temperature with the outlet water valve.
This way you don't have to rely on a radiator that might not be adequate or have an external fan running for airflow through the radiator, there is always a fresh supply of cold water for cooling. also one less thing to have in your way while your trying to listen for odd noises in a fresh engine.
Ive got about 4 sets of headers for various engines that I use and I ALWAYS put some fairly quiet , free flowing mufflers on them so I can hear what's going on. Always time to make noise after the engine (and especially the cam) is broken in.
There's more but I'm sick of typing. This gives you a general idea.

Frank

 

hey when you put the hose in the water pump and close the vaulve on the manifold side does the overflow come out on the ground back out waterpump. thanks in advance Rob

 

My buddy built a nice one just using add ons to a heavy duty engine stand. Works great for Chebby power, but not so good for MOPAR stuff for the reasons mentioned already here. My SBC will be on it in the next few weeks -- I'll try to get some photos of it when it is.

For Mopar guys -- I've got a little bit of history stored away -- it's an old engine stand that Tom Hoover (i.e. Mr Hemi) gave me from the the Ramchargers It was originally used for the Chysler Turbine program. It's a brute of a stand that I can bolt a bell housing to. I can use the stick flywheel and voila. I've bolted a lot of engines to it, but haven't fired one up on it yet. But it will work slicker than snot for this. Someday I hope to get it done! But right now the cars are more important.

 

We used the same type set-up in high school auto shop but we gutted an automatic trans to cover the fly wheel.(saftey) When I was a kid my brothers buddie built one ran the exuast out through the wall and used it to heat his garage in the winter. Nothin like a 350 Chevy heater. It was toasty!!!!!

 

No, the water is then trapped in the engine as a closed system. I failed to mention that you also have to block off the heater supply outlets also. Then the only way out for the water is through the thermostat outlet which is blocked off by the plate with the valve. Doing it this way the water circulates through the engine just like it would if there was a radiator hooked up and the engine was running. After you open the valve (when the engine reaches operation temperature the hot water just runs out on the ground through the second garden hose hooked to the valve and is replaced by the first hose connected to the water supply.. It normally would be returned to the top of the radiator to be cooled. I usually run the end of the outlet hose out to the street so there is no water mess where you are running the engine.
I haven't used this setup for a long time as I 've spent quite a while in the hospital the last few years and my engine building has been on hold. I'll try to dig the adaptors out and post some pictures. It's self explanitory when you see them.

Frank

 

Great info here.I'm going to set mine up for small block Mopar.But like Mike said,I've got a lot of work to do on the car.I get a whole bunch of shit from the buddies when I work on anything but the Coronet.I've started building a fixture to lift bodies on or off the frame,but they put it on the back burner too.There's just not enough hours in the day.

Fuzz

 

i built one back in high school welding class.

when i was building it i planned on making it so i could put anything on it, but i ended up making it just for chevys.

i have broke in 3 engines on it though. and i have a trick set of big tube headers that i use with it.

heres some pics...

 

http://www.directimagehost.com/pf.php?fid=8197

 

Flathead Merc on my home made stand (dust included)

 

I built one starting with a grocery cart. The wheels and the bottom frame are the start point, use tubing to lengthen it about a foot. Build a frame on the rear with holes to bolt to a bell housing, several holes fror several bolt patterns. I have run SBC, 302 and Y blocks, nailheads, all on the same roll around stand. I let the radiator sit on the floor supported by the hoses, and use a 20 inch box fan to cool. Its dirt cheap and works great, when not in use it will stand up on its back side to save space.

 

We built two last year, sold one at the Charlotte Auto Fair to cover our cost. Our sytle varied from the norm a little. If you look at where the bellhousing bolts to the frame, you'll notice it goes to an inverted u shaped square tubing. Remove the front motor mounts and adjust the rear up to a normal working height and you have a build-up stand. Once the engine is built the front motor mount are added. Front mounts are adjustable 3 ways, up-down, in-out, and front-back. Front mounts will adapt to ant type motor. Next add the radiator bracket, hook up the wiring and fire her up. On the control panel is a tach, oil press, water temp, fan switch, on-off switch and starter button. When not in use the entire package will store flat on the bottom frame. We spent about two days on the machine work for the rotating head assembly and another two days on cutting and welding. I've got complete materials list, drawings and assembly notes. When time permits I'll organize these and had plans on prresenting them on CD for about $25 (less to HAMBers), but I'm not ready to do that yet. You can't beat these for running an engine or cam after rebuild. So easy to get anywhere to fix leaks or make adjustments without bending over into an engine compartment.

 

I just saw this one on E-gay. I guess it works.

 

This is the one I think you're talking about, Screwthe - the owner/builder of the stand is Gordy Cushman in Rockford IL, who rebuilt the Poncho in my A coupe. It's a very slick setup with an ignition / instrument panel that has tach, temp and pressure gauges...

 

Very nice!

Fuzz

 

I finally got around to getting some pics the other day. Here they are. Better late than never, hey???

 

Another Shot....