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Batwing tech request

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mr57, Sep 30, 2006.

  1. Anyone on here ever build their own??? I was looking at the Starbird Big T replica build in SRM and was wondering if anyone ever did a set up similar. They had the spring mounted suicide style between the radius rod mounts and the lower mount extended out to mount the front shock bottom. What material would be used? thickness? I have access to a couple of very capable machinists, but need a bit of guidance in this. Any help???
     
  2. Check out this site.... www.welderseries.com . They have kits to build your own stuff. Modify brackets or cut new plates and use with their machined bits and make what you want!

    Dan
     
  3. grumper
    Joined: Dec 19, 2004
    Posts: 154

    grumper
    Member

    I would look at the welder series stuff and modify them to suit. I've bought some of their parts, Paul is a great guy to deal with.

    grumper
     
  4. gahi
    Joined: Jun 29, 2005
    Posts: 731

    gahi
    Member
    from Moab, UT

    I made my own, used 3/16 steel. then boxed it in. these are mounted on a '58 ford pickup front axle, and bolt to the existing spring perches. Make some cardboard patterns of what you want , that way you can check for clearence of the tie rod, springs, shocks, drag link, and frame.

    Gary
     

  5. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,254

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    That sounds interesting Gary!
    Thought about doing something like that myself because I have a 56 axle here with spanking NEW kingpins etc! Almost a waste to just use the brakes and toss the rest out...

    My plans are to do a mockup with a set of 46 split wishbones to see if a strong and attractive union can be made, but hairpins could be substituted if the look and connection was better.
    If I don't like the look I'll have to bite the bullet and start buying parts for the car I-beam I have...but unfortunately the list is long.

    Got any pics you can post...I'm wondering how it all looked once mounted into the car?
     
  6. gahi
    Joined: Jun 29, 2005
    Posts: 731

    gahi
    Member
    from Moab, UT

    you cant really see it in this pic but i wraps aroung the bottom of the perch and has a plate so the bolts go through both.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. Hackerbilt
    Joined: Aug 13, 2001
    Posts: 6,254

    Hackerbilt
    Member

    Hmmm...think I know what your describing! Good thinking.
    Doesn't look even slightly out of place either. Nice work that makes my using the full axle even more likely now...;)
    Cool project(s) too BTW!

    I need a shop "stump" like that!!! LoL
    Bet it comes in handy for a dozen reasons...
     
  8. gahi
    Joined: Jun 29, 2005
    Posts: 731

    gahi
    Member
    from Moab, UT

    heres a better pic. I like to use the method of 25% of the tire height to figure the distance between the holes. Also on mine I had to use heims at the ends of the tierod and move it to the top of the arms to get it into a good location. otherwise with the rod ends below the arms it was too low. It wouldn't be too hard to make one that looks like a wishbone. with a similar base you could put the transverse spring anywhere you want
    Gary
     

    Attached Files:

  9. the "eliterate"redneck
    Joined: Jun 26, 2006
    Posts: 341

    the "eliterate"redneck
    BANNED

    so weird i just got dun wit mine. i had a 53 chevy thats in my avatar i drive eur day. and now im puttin it on a s10 frame so i had all the drivetrain+motor(235)going to waist.
    so i cum up with a cunning plan "if i use it on my ford i dont gota fix or buy anything" thats my kinda build. but it was hard im a mustang guy "ford" and i hate to see chevy motors in fords,(i like chevys too)i just dont like to crossbreed.but this motor is cool and will runnoft:D and its paid for.sooooo........i used it all (ford cab on an altered chevy driveline) i feel like a true rodder.this is my setup. Picture 055.jpg

    Photo-0056.jpg
     

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