ALright, the biggest problem with the body of the 56 Bel Air I picked up is the surface rust, It's cleaning up "ok" with teh DA, but I know I'm not going to be able to get it completely back to clean metal without blasting it and I plan to blast some of the car. The roof however is an area I do not want to have to sandblast. Trying to smooth out warpage on a roof is my LEAST favorite thing to do bodywork wise so i want to avoid it if possible. So would Zero Rust or Rust Bullet work for the stuff that left over after sanding and wire wheeling? Heres some pics to show you the "black areas" and pitted stuff I'm talking about. ^this is a spot I sanded on the roof just to see the condition of the metal under the paint. ^the worst of the pitted areas look like this. ^ The dark areas on the trunk are "blackened" where the surface rust was, and have some slight pitting. I've read lots of threads about this stuff, but I've never seen anyone talk about how the "rust paint" laster over time, or the condition of the metal it was used on. I want some testimonials damnit! With picture proof! The roof will be getting flake & candy most likely, so you can see where I'd be concerned about the shit coming back through.
any type of a nice paint needs a good surface to start with. that whole car needs to be media blasted. glass bead,, something like that. find a professional blaster who does car bodies. anything less is an invitation to eventual paint failure.
I knew the first response was gonna be that! If I have to, I'll blast it myself at the lowest pressure I can get away with. I'm just checking out all my options....I've been reading about these products alot, but haven't read much on how it holds up on cars over time.
i was wondering the same about rust bullet or por 15. zero rust didn't work on my rims, go a little rust bleed through. my girls car i used metal prep, then self etching primer and the dp40 (sealer primer).....so far no bleed through but it's covered. the eastwood crap dies in sunlight (over time), the por 15 kit i used in my panel a few years ago and it's still holding up (the floor and it was rusty). never used the rust bullet and was wondering if it worked.
Instead of blasting to remove or chemicals to convert, what about chemically removing the rust? I bought a squirt bottle of OxiSolv and just goofing around with some scrap, it seemed to work pretty well. But I haven't had the opportunity to really test it.
Did you order that stuff direct, or buy it at a store? How is it applied? Can you get any before/after pics of the stuff you tried it on?
you got to ask yourself what would a high end painter do? squirt some chemical on it? neutralize it somehow? cover it? fuck no. thier reputation lies on the quality of the job. along with how long it lasts. a quality paint job needs to start on a good surface. either a previous paint job with no paint failures or clean bare metal.
My only response is this... I have the SAME problem w/ my 58 chevy hood. I am subsribing to this thread like a leach. I sanded it as much as I wanted to w/ a DA, but the pits were BAD! The metal is still good (solid, but has small pits) underneath (and has the black colored factory (was it primer back then?) "undercoating". I was thinking acid-dip because it is my extra hood, but what to do w/ the hood after? Plastic, lead...? 49ratfink...what if you can't get to clean bare metal? I lnow quality is job one, but what kinda "cleaning agent" or filler would make it work if you CAN'T get a clean/non-pitted surface? I think that is where Switchblade and myself are at (sorry for the hijack SWBL327). Thanks anyone, Tito
I tacked it on to an Eastwood order, and I don't have any pics. BUT I did just so happen to see this link that does a comparison (with photos) of POR, MasterSeriesCT, Rust Bullet, and Rustoleum. I found the link while lurking over at Volksrods.
I use the common rust stops ( POR-15, Master Series, etc) a lot...on floors, trunks, and backsides of panels. I don't use it on anything I put nice paint on top of. Dont' trust it enough! Blast it, or acid wash it till it's clean "white metal".
The Jalopy Journal
