Technical Can we have a thread all about tig welding early ford sheet metal

Any Tig with high frequency. Old millers or Lincolns with hi freq are great if you have the space. I like er70-s2 1/16” rod. Some people like silicone bronze rod because of the low heat required. In the old days when I brazed often I had trouble with Bondo sticking to brass so I’ve stayed away from bronze tig rod. #4 cup and 1/16” tungsten. Easy to see around a #4 cup. I move around the panel I’m welding after tacking the panel. 1/2” to 3/4” long welds. I keep an air gun close by and cool off the panel after each weld.

 

wp-9 left wp-17 right
wp=9 torch body on the right.

about 40 amps,
DC electrode negative,
flowing 15 cfh of pure argon
. I did not use pulsing for this job.
The torch is fitted with a gas lens and a #8 cup, 1/2'' bore = 13mm
and I’m using a 3/32-inch diameter, 2% Lanthanated tungsten electrode,( 2.4mm red)
sharpened to a fine point at a 50-degree included angle (seems blunt ?)
. The tungsten stickout is 1/8 inch, - (3.2mm)
and the filler wire is 0.035-inch diameter ER 70 S-6 ( .08mm mig wire)

https://www.millerwelds.com/-/media...lding/auto_body_welding_010_500x313.jpg?la=en

 

There are a lot of good thoughts on here, but when it comes down to it, TIG requires practice and muscle memory. A skilled operator can work wonders with a lousy machine. But if you're learning or are not a professional, it helps to have some basic features.

I would not buy a machine without HF start. Having the ability to pre and post flow is also helpful. A pulse setting is not necessary, especially for sheetmetal, but comes in handy when you're making longer welds on thicker material. A liquid cooled torch is a real luxury but also is not necessary. I wouldn't get a machine with less than 200A, especially if it's 220v. If you're limited to 110v input, you're going to have to make due but it won't preclude you from getting a capable welder.

Try not to get bogged down in the minutiae. 2% Thoriated (red tip) is an industry standard and will work well for any steel you do, but I don't like to use them because it is a low level radiation hazard. I'm sure it's just me being overly cautious, but when you're sharpening these things over and over, I figure it has to have a cumulative effect and we all breathe enough shit that's terrible for us. 2% Ceriated (grey tip) might be a good option for you since it's not radioactive, and takes less amperage to start. For sheet metal, that's a bonus. I've also had no issues with Lanthanated tungsten (gold tip).

I know people will dump on them, but I've welded with some of the Vulcan machines from Harbor Freight, and they do just fine. I still prefer my HTP, but the Vulcan machines are easily as good or better than the Eastwood TIG200.

Good luck!

 

Nurse!

 

Tried the 1mm,
Too difficult. Couldn't hold the Tungstens in the drill,
Switched to 1.6 and the 6 rod
Scrap steel
60amps

 

@Hellbentrodder @31Vicky with a hemi

Can someone answer a simple question for me?

I have the regulator with the floating ball in it and I know this may sound stupid but is the ball supposed to be floating all the time? Or only when the the pedal is pushed ?

I noticed that if I'm welding it floats, as soon as I let off the pedal the gas ball drops.

Is this normal or do I have a leaking valve?

I'm too damn old to hear any leaks so I thought I'd ask. I swore they floated as long as the bottle was open, machine running or not.

Thanks !!

 

Only when you are welding.

 

There's a common misconception associated with brass and bronze. That misconception comes from the use of flux while brazing. The failure of filler to stick to surfaces that have been braised is not due to brass or bronze. It is due to the applicant of the brass and bronze not properly cleaning off the flux from the substrate before applying filler or paint.

Brass and bronze have earned a bad reputation because of this, when it is operator error.

 

You should have a post flow timer, that allows the flow of argon for a determined time after you let up on the pedal, most are adjustable, for the size of tungsten used. The reason is, the flow of argon will shield the weld, while it is red. Also, if the argon flow stops when you let up on the pedal, your tungsten will be contaminated.

 

@Pete1 thank you !!

@Marty Strode yes sir I knew about that I have it set for about 3 seconds post flow.

.

 

-never knew that-thanks!--so just blasting a brazed area,you will be successful welding it?

 

For about the last 7-years most of the exterior panel replacement that I have done was tacked using MIG, and welded out using TIG, both using Silicon bronze, shielded by Argon.

No flux, no problems.