Older post, but I'm getting tired of waxing the panel every 3-4 months....that thing is big and can't fit into a garage (too tall). I met someone who used Poppy's Patina and it looks ok (he used satin), I would use the gloss if I get it. I'm fighting myself because of the "patina" word and we used Mop and Glow on a friends o/t in the early 90s to see what would happen (looked ok for awhile but was tacky for days). The panel is 99% paint, shines up really well with wax and I need to buy some time until I have a proper place to paint/work on it. Luckily it's overcast this weekend as I waxing it again for LARS. They make a wipe on and a spray on. https://poppyspatina.com/ Let the onslaught begin.......
IMHO, any clear or gloss coat over a rusty/patina'd finish looks like someone waxed over a dirty old kitchen floor. Leave it as is or paint the car. As for the wipe on clear coat, that sounds like a stunt a used car dealer would do to flip a car (like that old tire black coating). Maybe for old car buffs there's a practical use if you were just re clearing/rubbing out a single panel or two such as a hood, but for the entire car, since you have to wet sand prep and mask, I'd say shoot it with a spray gun.
I have no intention of painting my rod but what was left of the paint/primer was dry and chalky looking and I wanted to try something that would seal what finish there is and the surface rust and bare spots. I used "Shine Juice" from Vice Grip Garage, I understand that the Poppy's Patina people make it for them. After giving it a good bath and letting the car dry overnight I applied the "juice", it goes on easy, spreads evenly, doesn't require much effort and it actually dries completely, as advertised. The finish, such as it is, ended up darker and more uniform with kind of a dull sheen, not flat/matte but definitely not shiny. They say it will last for months, not sure how long months is supposed to be but I'll probably put it on again in the spring. It's obviously not clear coat nor meant to be, but I'm very happy with it and will use it on my faded old truck as well. Before applying- While applying- Immediately after coating the whole car- Next day- 5 days after applying-
Hello, Linseed oil is sticky and does nothing to continue protecting anything other than temporary projects. You might as well rub reclaimed thinner oil on your paint and hope for the best… It takes forever to dry if ever, and for outdoor projects, no UV protection as with modern products made for protection in outdoor surfaces. Yes, there is oil for wood protection and it works, but your car is not wood. Even if it is, permanent or semi-permanent protection is the popular application. If a coating is used, lasts only 6 months, before another layer is added, why not use a known wax protection that has been used for outdoor surfaces since the 50s that still is rated the top in protection and long lasting coating. The worse conditions for outdoor use and the “elements” is boating. The boats, sailboats in particular, are always on the water surface. The surfaces are always sprayed with various amounts of salt water while sailing at angles and heeling over with the wind. On rough days with wind and swells, the whole top surface becomes a coat of salt spray and if left on long enough, a salty crust begins to form. So, as soon as one comes back into the dock at the end of a journey or just a day’s sail, fresh water spray is mandatory. Once my wife and I came in to our dock late in the afternoon after full day of sailing in the ocean. The salt had already covered most of the decking on the top of the boat. As we came in and decided to rest for a bit before the clean up process, we had a snack/water and fell asleep. About an hour later, everything that had salt spray on any surfaces was now crusty and needed instant spray to get it off. It did come off with a powerful hose end sprayer and a solution of “salt removal” liquid spray that helped. Jnaki So, what is on the fiberglass and steel products exposed to such an attack of salt moisture, just foggy weather and the general exposure to sitting on liquid all day and night? Colonite Wax. 1957 Back in the late 50s, Colburn Glaze was a product that was developed for metal surfaces and Bill Colburn was in the know. He also happened to be one of the top drag racers in the nation and his long line of Competition Coupes is well known throughout drag racing history. As much as the good product was, at the time, we all were using paste wax called various names, like Simonize, Vista Wax, Turtle Wax, and the king of all wax at the time, Cadillac Blue Coral. (just look at @Moriarity and his historic shelves…) Then came Classic Car Wax and so on to today’s fancy products. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/race-car-transportation.1264428/page-14#post-14678663 But, from experience from all of those wax products, it was an eye opening thing to revert back to the original Carnuba Wax products. They were made as usual and were for the longest lasting protection from elements, including a daily dose of salt air, salt water and anything floating in the surrounding atmosphere. Boating has their own companies that cater to the owners. So, products are advertised, just like car products. It is a mess of products to choose from. Having been an owner of cars since the 50s and sail boats for 20 plus years in the ocean environment, … “what goes around, comes around.” We discovered Carnuba Wax in the form of Collinite again and it has been a wonder of a product. It has lasted longer than 6 months and continues to protect those harsh elements that most hot rods and daily drivers do not see, unless you live on the water’s edge. Salt water mist, fog, wind, salt infused rain/wind daily combination is one expects on a daily basis for the fight against surface corrosion. Let alone sailing on a “heeling angle” with the flying salt water blasting by, covering the hull, as we were enjoying an active sail to our heart’s pounding and delight. Collinite is sold under many company’s logo product brands. The original works the best… No prep work, but these advertise 7 plus months of protection. Note: Since 1936 Our daily driver cars have been coated with the same process and that Colonite Wax detail is lasting forever. Mainly because both cars are always garaged and in shaded parking lots when we have to park. Of course, your choice and method will vary with what you use. Colonite has been around for ages and does not get the big name advertisement as Meguiar’s, Mother’s or other big names. But, it does work and works better than those big time hot rod company products. It almost stays a great looking surface that we tend to forget how long it has lasted. A little bit of polish on a dull surface, even black primer, will give it a semi matte finish, similar to the popular “frozen ice” paints that cost $$$$$. Note 2: Black primer with a nice polish application… Note 3: I inquired about a ceramic process for my wife’s daily driver. It was going to take all day and the guarantee was 6 months to a year of protection. For all that the prep work and application takes, it was just not worth it for us to do that process. The cost was extremely high and for an hour or so work the Carnuba Wax application also gives 6 months of protection for minimal cost. YRMV
Boiled Linseed Oil and Acetone, 50-50 mix on old rusty vehicles. Takes awhile to dry. Try washing with Barkeepers Friend prior to remove haze on old paint. Looks good to me for a couple of months. Dry the application rags outside before tossing. Your results my vary.
He has stated that this is not the same. A regular clear coat from base/clear requires a well-prepped surface and that's why regular clear coat over an old or patina paint surface is generally a recipe for poor adhesion down the road. I don't remember the specifics, but it's formulated to adhere differently (maybe mechanically, if I remember correctly) so that it can adhere to older paint surfaces. Also, everyone talking about linseed oil, the Shine Juice, etc., Oh this thread are talking about something different. The wipe on clear is a completely separate product. I've used the Shine Juice style product from Sweet Patina (Patina Sauce) and it works great!
I looked on the website, saw the Shine Juice, did not see a Wipe On Clear. Maybe you could post a link, make it easier for people to find if you want their comments.
You might have missed it because they call it "wipe-on", but you'll be able to find it at this link in three gloss levels. https://www.vicegripgarage.com/coll...gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&sort_by=best-selling
Thanks, that looks interesting. I've had some old cars that I think I might've tried some of this on.
I used the wipe-on matte clear from Poppy's Patina on my '41 Merc that has old original silver faded to gray with lots of red and black primer showing. I'd used Gibbs oil a couple times but it didn't survive long in KS weather and it's a chore to keep applying. The car would start to show rust stains coming through the old finish when it was damp and was getting worse and I wanted to keep it preserves as-is. I bought the Poppy's...It's a two part clear and hardener and is a true clearcoat paint, not an oil and isn't designed to need to reapply. I washed the car with soapy water and mild scotch brite pads. The directions say applying in temps of 50-70 is best and they aren't kidding. 90F was too hot...the stuff was curing right behind the rag. I put it in the shop and cranked down the a/c and in the morning at 70F it went well. It worked great-absolutely sealed the old surface and looks good...not shiny but a proper weathered finish look. It sheds water and does not rust in any amount of humidity or rain, and cleans up well. I'm pleased.
@jnaki I’ve been using Colinite for 40 yrs. It last a full year. Best stuff ever. Of course, your choice and method will vary with what you use. Colonite has been around for ages and does not get the big name advertisement as Meguiar’s, Mother’s or other big names. But, it does work and works better than those big time hot rod company products. It almost stays a great looking surface that we tend to forget how long it has lasted.
We used Mop and Glo on on the toes and heels of our Jump Boots. Looks really good for Formation, Guard Mount and Military Police Guard Mount.
It's been a year now. It lives most of the time in a 3 sided lean-to but I drive it a lot, rain or shine. Here's a before shot a couple years before the clearcoat. You can see how much more red primer had come through by the time the coating was done.
So, where can I get Collinite? I hesitate to use anything with Silicon in it. That stuff can cause real problems if you ever want to paint it.
I’ve used the paste mostly but also have used the liquid. This wax dries and is very easy to buff off. No dry hard white shit. https://www.google.com/search?q=col...BDExLjaYAQCgAQGwARY&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp
Hello, Collinite is a great wax product. Probably one of the best on the market. Pure Carnuba Wax and lasts what seems like forever. We have been using it for many years and it is sold just about any auto parts store, marine boating supplies stores or of course Amazon for quick deliveries. We have used paste and liquid. The paste lasts longer on any surface, but that is your choice. The process of coating your retro paint or plain black primer paint should be simple and not complicated. Wax on, wax off… if you do not like it, then clean it off and start with something you will like. It is not a permanent solution like a spray coating that hardens. Product come and go and through all of the wax coating products around in our hot rod history, the Classic Car Wax seemed like the best on the market for many years… on an 1962 visit to the L.A. County Fair with a bunch of our teenage friends, we came across the display for a new product, Classic Car Wax. The display was great. The sales person was a good talker and after the amazing display of the product, we all bought a can or two. That was the amazing new product, back then. Not permanent, but a good coating that lasted quite some time with the cruising car maintenance procedures we teenagers used daily. Jnaki Colinite has been around a long time, but recently, with the expansion into other fields, has come back into the limelight again. The only product in my “detail” drawer is Colonite, a bunch of clean, soft cloth cut to fit the hand and other cotton towels to wipe off the product. Everyone has their own way to shine metal surfaces. This is a wax product and can be used in sunlight or in shade. It is the easiest product to apply and seems like nothing is going on the surface. But, when the Collinite is applied, it is almost too easy. The 70+ year old body takes a lot of action to maintain our sailboat and cars. Collinite makes is as if we are 20 somethings again. And, it protects for what seems like forever. On the salt air environment, we kept a log of when we applied the Colonite. It was 6 months at the least and the product was still protecting everything from the salt and we were happy at the results. (Collinite 520 Post Haste Quick Detailer is also a good product to have around to battle the birds... and other flying debris.) With the local foggy, salt air that has inundated So Cal coastal areas for the last several months, the salt is in the air on any drives near the water. But, a simple spray from a water bottle or spray/shine takes off any unwanted “stuff” from flying objects and the daily dose of salt air. It works and my wife is a happy driver when she sees her/our cars sitting clean and shiny. YRMV
Thanks for the before photo! Glad to hear the wipe-on product worked well for you. I currently use Patina Sauce but might want to try something else.
A friend of mine used Sharkhide on his bare metal Austin, they say it can go over paint if you Google it
I’m shocked at how expensive carnauba wax is these days. It been years but I don’t think I paid more that a couple of dollars for a can of it the last time I bought it.
Go ask a pro auto painter that does it everyday what his opinion is of all this "snake oil" stuff these tv guys push. Might want to wear a helmet.
I use furniture oil - on the bottom of my car. Danish Oil - oil blend that dries to hard finish, pretty similar to boiled linseed except its already on my shelf.
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