Technical Marching forward 1-2-4-3, Banger time...

I‘m going to install a Stromberg 97 on my Model B. The truck is 100% stock at this moment. I’m not sure of everything I may need for the linkage and cable actuated choke. Any help pointing me in the right direction for what I need would be greatly appreciated.

 

Your intake should come with a bar to connect the pedal linkage to the carb linkage. The link between the red bar and the carb came from the updraft I think. Don't have the choke anymore.
Warren

 

Bad news on the HAL front.... unfortunately looks like this engine will need to be completely gone through. I noticed some odd lash in the upper part of the gear tower. Seems the cam blocks weren't fit correctly to the head and the idler gears are shot. The exhaust cam was so loose you could turn the crank almost 10 degrees before the cam moved. intake cam so tight that the tips of the teeth dug into the base of the idler. Looks like those 4 upper gears will need replaced and in the process of this happening there is metal shavings from the gears throughout the engine... with some help it looks like I found some ready made gears that can be modified to work. thankfully the rest of the gears seem pretty darn nice still. Pulled the pan and looks like a cast crank, not billet. It does have the nice tubular rods like an Offy though. Appears they hit the aluminum pan rail adapter a bit... At this point I don't trust any of the work with signs of shoddy craftsmanship all over.... so starting at square one I guess..... Overall its still a good engine to start with and not easy to go find another., just going to need a good bit of going through and more money invested before its ready to run.

here's some photos if you've never seen inside one of these.

ya win some, ya lose some....

 

UGH, it was delivered here as a "rebuilt, ready to run" motor for my Buddy.
He took off to NZ and it sat thru Covid in the trailer.
It looks like we dodged a bullet here, sorry to pass along to you.
Those gears look to have been run for a while like that and should have been howling pretty good.
Hope the cams are not too beat up, everything else can be easily fixed, cams take a little finesse.

I was just looking thru some documentation, all A/B motor DOHC and cams are chain driven.
Hope you get this running, John

 

Thanks John,
Almost looks like it was assembled knowing it had the bad idlers and the rest pretty good but then the incorrect shimming at the cams caused it to eat those gears a bit too when fired for likely just a short time....probably because of the noise I assume. Luckily it was loose enough to not hurt the big center idler. Stripped holes and other work just seems it wasnt done by a very tedious person so I'm going to check everything out. A good excuse to learn more about them rather then just run it ....

The actual cams are still real nice, just the cam gears too the hit.

 

Is this what is referred to as boxing the rod? Could someone explain what was done with these?
Thanks

 

Here are a few pics of the steps to shorten, lighten, and box the rod

 

So hit Chickasha prewar swap meet, man tons of T stuff, not much A, but I bought what I could. On the way up we stopped by Piranios Antique Auto, picked up some parts, got a shop tour of what was left after Dennis passed on and got to geek out on the salt flat car.



So no real pics of the swap meet, cold, windy, but some decent deals to be had. Truth be told, almost all the stuff I bought is already sold. Kept a few things for myself...Highlight photo.



So I decided to do the adapter to the 34 trans I have. So I have a clings adapter on its way.

So while the motor is out, I can do the thrust washers easier this way... Here is the thrust washer damage. I think due to no oil grooves that it just basically starved for oil and wore down. Micrometer shows .040 wear so My calculations of crank play were correct. Test fitting to see what Intake I liked more. Decided to go with the Zepher cause someone in germany wants the burns.

 

Thanks for the pictures and explanations. Did you shorten them to increase stroke?

 

These rods are A big end with T small end for an A crank in a T motor. The A rods are 1/2” longer than a T, plus the crank is an extra 1/4” stroke. Final length for this set is 6.875”

 

Picked up another batch of polished parts today… and have most of the speedster engine stripped down. Will be pulling the head off and cam out this weekend and heading to San Jose to have it ground early next week! Next step is to get all that shiny stuff under the hood…

 

Wow!

 

Hi All - Does anyone know if there is going to be a hill climb/time trial event in Auburn, CA this spring?

 

Regarding the Jenkins head:

If you still need help with your rockers try these guys- they have done 4 banger stuff in the past
http://rockerarms.com/index.html

Or try Smith Brothers for pushrods.

 

Thank you Dan!

 

I took the engine out of our 30’s Flat Tail Race Car to freshen it up, and thought some may find the parts interesting. Pictures attached.

1. Race Car, B Engine McDowell OHV.
2. Front Drive Oil Pump driven off Cam Gear. Pick-up tube in Pan covered by a screen, Output to Regulator, then Oil Galley beneath Side Cover. Oil Passageways to Mains enlarged.
3. Side Drive Magneto. Don’t know brand.
4. Piston Dome at TDC. JE Piston Number is X99, 4” Diameter.
5. Head Combustion Chamber. Valves are 1.75 in.
6. Strengthened Front & Center Main Caps.

This engine is much different for me. Progress is slow, trying to not make any mistakes. Going to check Pistons-Head-Valve Clearances this week.

-

 

Close

 

Slightly off topic but I have been working on this banger for my GPW/Willys MB. Hopefully I can fire it in a couple weeks!

 

That's fascinating! Do you mind posting more photos of the cam gear / tang, and the back of the timing cover?

 

The Timing Gear Cover is special made aluminum with machines mounting location for the pump. The interface to the timing gear is just a slotted shaft, the fixture on the gear bolts to the timing gear.

 

Retson asked me for pics of my marine conversion front cover, so I might as well post them for all to see. I have the rest of the kit as well, but I build hot rods, not boats, and I think this is the only part that’s useful to me. The accessory drive has a gear the same size as the crank gear, so it will spin at crank speed.

 

The Rutherford sounds great!

 

Crazydaddyo, what brand is that electric water pump setup?

 

DAMMMMMM

 

This.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all31120

 

Does anyone recognize this car?

 

I’ve seen pictures of it, but don’t remember where. Maybe a more modern Hop Up Magazine? Maybe on the HAMB?

 

Dropped off a cam core at RedLine Cams in San Jose today… now I just have to wait! Until then, I’ll be building the exhaust, oil lines, and throttle linkage