Technical SBC 283 "Drop in" Piston Ring Set Question

Hello,

I have a couple builds going, just budget backyard rebuilds.

I have a standard bore block that is perfect, honed and ready to go. I have two sets of pistons, both standard bore.

One set takes 1/16, 1/16, 3/16 piston rings. I have a NOS box of Total Seal Rings part number 239
but am not sure if these are drop in or file fit, unsure how to tell (I have email off to them).

I don't want to spend the time on file fit rings, does anyone make a drop in set of these?

I have emails off to a couple manufacturers but thought I would ask here.

Thanks, Tim

 

Let me get this straight. You don't want to waste time file fitting the new rings to the pistons, right? Are you absolutely certain that each cylinder is bored exactly the same as the others? If they are not, you're going to have a difference in end gap on every ring you install. Take the additional time, check the end gap on each ring that is going into a particular cylinder and fit as required. Come on, for Pete's sake, you know better than that. This isn't the time to be doing stuff half-assed.

 

How are you prepping the bores ? Should at least be running a dingle ball thru them as an absolute minimum. A 3 or 4 stone hone would be a step up.

Regardless of "ready to run" or file to fit. You should be installing the rings in the bores and checking end gap. Even on a fresh bored block from the machine shop this should be a required check.
Especially important on a backyard rebuild with unknown wear per cylinder.

 

No size designation on the package?

 

I thought even total seals were file fit too. Expansion rate plays. Pot of coffee, quiet shop, done before you know it.

 

post a picture of the label on the box.

The TS rings that are file fit usually say .005 don't they?

 

If you value your engine you will follow the procedure for checking ring gap and piston fitting. That includes filing the rings where necessary. I never heard of a "drop in set of rings". Because it has been honed you may not need to do much filing, if any. Why waste your time and money to end up with scuffed cylinder walls, broken ring lands, etc. Do it right.

 

Block was cleaned, honed etc rings came with pistons but not sure if drop ins or file fit, rings are standard bore ie not .30 or anything. I will be checking end gaps etc.

 

If you have the block there, see if a ring fits. You'll know pretty quickly if you need to file them.

Don't worry about the "you gotta fit your rings" crowd....I gave up on that years ago, and my cars seem to do just fine.

 

I have done it many times, I have a few different filers on hand....going to work on it tonight

 

I thought all rings should be fitted and filed if necessary. I check them all. But I don’t know.

 

Maybe I have it wrong, but if you take one ring and set it in each bore, the gap tells the accuracy of the machine shop. I do that 8 time to confirm their work. Then I try the same ring from a different pack and if the gap doesn't change I assume accuracy from the ring manufacture. Been lucky so far.

 

"Block was cleaned, ...."

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/quick-tips-cleaning-cylinder-bores-better-ring-seal-power/

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-with-jeff-smith-cleaning-cylinder-walls/

Until an oily paper towel stays clean I consider every cylinder not clean enough for assembly.

 

Total Seal rings should be file to fit. Easy to tell stick a ring in the bore and straighten it. File to fit will be evident.

 

Yeah, they should be checked....but the modern trend for performance engines is to buy rings that are 5 thou over, and file all of them (top and 2nd grooves) to fit. Lots of work, for an undetectable improvement in most cases.

Blown/turbo/nitrous motors need more gap, usually, which you can get just fine with standard size rings.

 

The stuff I do only requires that I check to see that each ring fit’s with out one being tight as compared to the others in the set and cause a ring to break.

 

I would assume that any new ring set was "file to fit" until I measured the end gaps and found out otherwise.

 

The rings I have are not file to fit, they are cast and stepped with a two piece ring for the top groove. I was able to speak with tech at Total Seal, guy I spoke with has been there 23 years and never has seen these as they were befor him. He said check gaps and run them, just checked one and it is great. I will check the rest later.

 

@patmanta

 

I love NOS rings! nice score

 

That is the point on this build, see what I can do with what I have. I have built stuff from one extreme to the other, success with both methods.

 

From my '65 Motors Manual. There's probably a reason they specified those gaps.

 

Yeah gaps look inline with what Total Seal said to have, close to your chart, thanks for posting

 

Never filed any.
Take one out of the box, check it in the bore and party on

 

@BOSTONCAMARO nice build you have going. When you said backyard budget build I assumed a quick & dirty ring, bearing, gasket build. My apologies.

I've done those rebuilds, hone with a drill. They're not great. That's where file to fit rings help - every bore is a little different and none of them are true.

 

yeah, but the new rings seal so much better than the old worn out ones...even if they have a bit too much gap....you'll never notice the difference.

 

I’m with @squirrel on this one, I check the rings right before I put them on the piston and slam them in, can’t remember the last time I filed one. For the majority of engines close enough will run for more miles than most guys will put on their old car…

 

Most of the motors my dad and I built were NASA science projects, this one is more of ok let me see what I can do on a small budget. I built a motor once that was under the bench, rusted, 350 block. I wetsanded the cylinders, got an Autozone hone, cleaned it, assembled with detail ring end gaps, clearances, went 12.50's in a Camaro, street raced it like mad when young and stupid. I later sold the car to a person who beat it and gave it no love, car rotted out in a drivewy until I bought it back 5 years later got it running and motor is now in my Corvette running.

 

I made up a wooden plug years ago that puts the ring into the bore, 1" below the deck. That is a reasonable depth I use for checking gaps. I forget if my Speed Pro pistons came with rings, the shop I used assembled the short block.

 

Why not just use a piston ?