History How did they or do you mount a club plaque without drilling a hole in the face?

How about drilling into the top surface and installing a eye hook

 

I modified a repop license plate bracket .. worked slick

 

how did you attach plaque?

 

Drill and tap smallish blind holes from the back…might want to do several holes for strength with the smallish hardware. Obviously place the holes in the thicker parts of the plate.

 

WARNING: do not go to google images and search "hole in your face"

 

I just did. I should have listened to you.

 

Body panel seam sealer. Just don't ever expect to remove it later down the road.

 

what's the big deal about a couple holes in a club plaque?...in the old days that's how it was done.

 

There was a tech thread here years ago. I dont know how to link it but here's a screenshot.

 

Kind of leaning this way after all. Interesting read. If it helps, I'm making the bracket out an old street sign. LOL!

 

Dammit! I fell for it too! It's like telling someone DO NOT PUSH THE BUTTON!

 

If you do end up going this route (I'm assuming you'll drill them in the background) slightly countersink them and use flat head slotted bolts. Painted the same background color, they'll be hard to spot.

 

I guess I just didn't give this much thought, I just bolted it on.

 

I was trying to find what bracket(front) I purchased ( Dennis Carpenter ) . I removed the passenger tail light assy..screwed the bracket between the chrome tail light assy and the rear fender extension... reinforced the bottom with a thin straight metal plate on the on the back side painted black... stainless steels screws and lock nuts , then a cap nut to finish it off...

 

Wow alot of good info even x2 on some, if you didn't get it the first time.
Ya..banjorear they do look good all polished up with a nicely painted back ground ....but beware ..sometimes to much polishing can be damaging, I used to polish ,or rub, this one all the time till I discovered it had dropped 2 cup sizes .
She still keeps ol Lone Wolf drooling though.

 

Rudestude:

HAHAHAHHAHAHAHHA. Made my morning.

 

I'm gonna have to find me one o' them Stackers car club plaques!

 

Yup.

When I was at GM, we had to make fixtures to make sure that parts were aligned when they touched down on it.

Get it wrong, and you may not get it apart. Wait 24-hours to find out that you got it wrong, and you won't get it apart.

 

Traditional mounting method

 

or simply use the snipping tool that is part of the Windows system.
This allows you to partially post a pic if there is something innapropriate in the background

here's an example of a partially snipped and pasted pic

Use the Bostik ISR 70-03 that Mimi suggested
The downside compared to VHB is an overnight cure time, BUT it is superior in every other way

I've used it to glue my flip-flops together AND also the aluminium deck to steel frame on my trailer, as well as the trailer fenders.[ I stand on the fenders] And the hitch coupler.


It has a 260 psi shear load, and slightly less for tensile load [yet it remains rubbery and flexible]

 

^^ You're BSing us right? If not you're braver than I am if you really used a glue for the coupler^^

 

Absolute true story!
When I towed it down to our local inspection centre for a roadworthy. The inspection "experts" nearly had a coronary because there was no welds or mechanical fastening.
There is 48 sq in of glue surface in the coupler = 12480 lbs of shear load. Which I explained to them, so they wanted me to supply an engineers report [which wasn't a legal requirement ,but these idiots just make up rules as they go along]
So it was cheaper for me go away and drill and put bolts into the coupler.. Ruining the aesthetics of my beautiful trailer.
[they wouln't pass it with glue , but piss weak 3/8" self tap, button head cap screws were OK]

I do test it to destruction before I do something stupid.
Here is some powdercoated steel winch bracket offcuts I glued together.
After a week I used a crowbar to rip it apart ,and as you can see it pulled the powdercoating off the steel.


I also tested this glue on "hot dipped" galvanised steel and it was similar . The glue literally delaminated the galv off the steel.
Electroplated galv and bare steel were the best.

I also used it to glue together the monocoque frame in the car on my Avatar, so a club plaque should be a simple task.

 

Seeing your test pieces I still wouldn't use it for a coupler. But then again maybe your trailer is just a small light weight utility trailer. I have something bigger than that. The pictured load was hauled about 1900 mi home

 

I thought that this was a silly post since I just drilled holes in my plaque but then realized that this is the information I need for a different application. I built an aluminum hood for my T and the sides split into two pieces so that they can go around the headers and where the split is, the lower piece has a jog that the upper one overlaps with a dzus fastener holding them together. The problem is in the reinforcing plate under the dzus fastener. It has holes to mount it but there is no way to screw it on and have it clear the panel underneath. So far I have used epoxy but it doesn't seem to hold up and before I get to the paint stage, I need a good solution. VHB tape?

 

Stay lone wolf and enjoy it and you will have no need to mount that plate. Otherwise if you like arguing over silly things like how to mount your club plaque, join a group. I would just sell the unmolested club plaque on ebay and reap the rewards of it.

 

I asked my wife where I should mount my PHAROAHS plaque on my F100.
She just gave me the look. You know... 'The LOOK'?

How many in the 'No Club Lone Wolf' club?

 

those ae called elevator bolts. try McMaster Car I bought some