Technical Chevy 327 parts fit on a 305 engine

Have a 327 engine with all NEW parts--intake--Carb--Fuel Pump --water pump---plugs-- will these items fit on a 305 LONG block Create engine-- which has oil pan and timing cover installed-- I am looking at it to replace my 327 engine----- Thanks

 

Couple of things to check, bolt pattern for the intake; late 305's had the center 4? bolts at a slightly different angle. If later 305, the flywheel/flexplate is different than the 327. Also, ensure that 305 block has the fuel pump passage in it. Some are cast for it, but not drilled.

 

Yes, the different intake bolt angle began in '87. Also, 327 spark plugs aren't going to work in 305 cylinder heads.

 

dipsticks should be on opposite sides

 

If using factory manifolds check the bolt pattern, I swapped an early sbc in place of a 305, the manifolds did not bolt up on 2 ports = heads had different bolt spacing for exhaust flange.
That was 1993, the details are fuzzy, just remember fighting it, having to change manifolds and get exhaust redone.

 

Also figure out the crankcase ventilation system differences....327 used the old style with the hole in the back of the block and the vapor separator can in the valley, and a fill tube on the intake manifold. The 305 uses the newer style with the holes in the valve covers. You didn't mention if you want to put the 327 valve covers on the 305, but if you do, it's not straightforward.

On the exhaust manifolds, you can't use some 305 exhaust manifolds on 327 heads, because they're missing the extra hole that was added in the late 70s.. But you can use 327 manifolds on 305 heads.

 

What's wrong with the 327?

.bjb

 

NO NO NO!!!

 

Lol

 

About the only thing of even tangential merit that the 305 has, if it is 1987 or newer, is a roller cam.

Not enough reason to use any of it.

I use late 305's in light cars, that will just be used for cruising, and because I can get them for free.

 

YES YES YES

A perfect swap if the end goal is good manners. [and no oil leaks]
Throw some small port 265 heads and a matching 265 intake on it , and it will be a "high velocity fuel feeder" that is torquey down low.

Staggered rocker covers, short water pump , hidden manifold PCV , front oil filler would make the engine look "period"

 

I have found that the 305 often has a 700 r4 that can be bought cheap.

 

Very true. I have acquired several, for $0-300.

The combination of the trash talk about this engine, and everyone moving on to the LS series, these are out there, at, or near scrap price, in working order.

 

You will be unbelievably disappointed with the performance of a 305 crate motor. A well tuned half wore out 327 would run circles around it. Unless you just happen to have one and want to get it driving quick don’t waste your money.

the 88 to 92 LB9 305 was rated at 220 to 230 horse depending on year. But those were tunes port injection. All other 305s were rated between 160 to 190 horse and that’s less than inspiring. Plus it will hog gas down unless you really have some stellar carb and ignition tuning skills to super dial it in. A 305 is not a great motor. It can definitely be made great but the cost would be the same as doing a 350 or in Your case a 327. With the cost of crate motors I get it. But you will be much happy and spend less at the pump with a stock 250 horse 327 rebuild. Plus. You never have to say the awful phrase “it’s got a 305”.

 

absolutely. Every 305 that I have bought was specifically to get the 700r trans. Pull the trans and sell the motor for 200 bucks. Someone got a cheap motor and I got the trans I needed.

 

Or,"it's a crate motor", a buzzword in many circles, many times used by those that don't have a clue what is inside their engine, maybe the stereo and Naugahyde is more important.
Whatever blows your dress up!

 

I recently put a roller 305, with a better cam, HEI, and an Edelbrock 500 in a dedicated off-road rig that a friend owns.

It is geared so low that I could have probably put in a 16hp Briggs and Stratton on an adapter to a TH350, and it would have been fine.

It all depends on what you want to do.

Now I just need to convince him to put his spare 350 in his bus/camper, and sell off the 327 that is in it, while they still are holding value.

 

And another round of guys expecting a gent to spend 4+ K having a worn out engine rebuilt and then updated so it can live on what serves as gas today rather than installing a 1200 out of the box new long block in the car and driving it for 100 K without an issue.
I love 327 engines but both of the ones I had drank gas like a barfly drinks pitchers when you are buying. More than that I love being able to actually drive my ride rather than spending another year trying to get the cash together to rebuild a worn out engine that may or may not handle modern gas.
Or you brow beaters could start a Go fund me For him to rebuild that 327.

In answer to the original question. As others said, one issue may be the intake bolt pattern, Later heads have a different bolt setup for intakes than older (327) engines. Fuel pump may depend on the 305 being set up for a mechanical fuel pump at all. Including does the cam have a lobe for a Mechanical pump? The last issue is the location of the timing mark on the vibration damper. A lot of newer long water pump small blocks had the timing mark at 12 O'clock on the damper when the engine is on TDC on #1 and if you are using a bolt on tab over at about 2 oclock you can't set the timing. Been there done that.
Other than that it is just a small block Chebby engine.

 

You can slot the inner 4 intake holes if it’s a newer style 305 heads, ACCEL used to have the washers to use, I think it’s Mr Gasket now? that has them.

 

Since the OP asked a couple rather simple basic questions I'm amused that so many felt it necessary to question the choice of engine size. A bone-stock 305 has always been able to propel about any "regular-sized" car or truck around at legal+ speed all day. I don't see the need for all the extra, un-used HP to be under the hood for so many people and their cars. Penis measuring contest perhaps?

As always though.....To each their own.

Lynn

 

I had an 85 305 once. I bought it for 50 dollars because no one wanted it, and frankensteined it with 69 Camaro 4 barrell intake, and the rest, exhaust manifolds accessories, as you are asking, and threw it into my 400 dollar truck to get by. It was a sweet running little engine, and got great fuel economy, but was severely lacking in power, as I I was Only able to top Donner Summit pulling a 7,000 pound load at 5 mph. Gears would have helped, as the old Chevy had 3.08s, but not by a whole lot. Not my go to engine, but good for what it was intended for and I have no complaints. My next truck had a 440 Magnum and 4.10s, which may have been influenced by the lack of low end a little.

 

Aren't you the one that's always critiquing posts about something being off topic and not HAMB friendly, last time I checked 305's with vortec heads and 700R4's are all off topic, you're missing your chance man !

 

Thanks-- I went with a Chevy 1967- 1977--350 CI-5.7---INSTEAD of the 305--

 

None of the ones that I have had apart have had the lobe. The early ones all have the pump boss, and are drilled for the pushrod. Later ones lost the pushrod hole.

The roller cams in these are nothing to write home about. Any replacement one will make a ton more power, and have the lobe.

There are many cams out there that will work just fine with the stock valve springs, too.

 

There is no Vortec 305 with a 700R4.

The first year of the Vortec 305 was 1996, and the last year of the 700R4 was 1993.

You might be thinking of centerbolt heads (center 4 intake bolts vertical), which were a 1986 to 1995-1996 (Vortec had a fuzzy introduction). These are NOT Vortec heads (all intake bolts vertical).

Vortec describes a very specific shape of the combustion chamber, which was introduced many years before in the Vortec 4300 V6.

 

In the roller-cam era, there were 230hp ones, so even the factory did that, without a radical cam.

Put a better than that cam in there, with some cheap headers, and you could put a substantial bump on that number.

More than enough to motor around on cruise night.

Remember, there will always be people here that say if you don't have the biggest baddest engine, you're nobody (and also, paradoxically, think that drum brakes on all corners are fine).

They are the same ones that despise that my Falcon has a mildly hopped up 6-cylinder (and disc brakes on all four corners).

 

When I built my '36 Ford pickup, I put in a fresh 327 and it ran pretty good. I got my Henry J and decided the 327 was best for it and bought a $200 Craigslist 305 for the truck. I put in a mild Summit branded cam and timing set just because everyone around here said 305s had soft cams that went flat. The truck still runs pretty good, doesn't use oil and gets good mileage. It has an Edelbrock C3BX intake with a small Holley and modern, finned valve covers with PCV and breather holes. Nobody ever asked what engine I had when the 327 was in there but now people ask all the time. Sad.

Gary

 

My only experience with a 305 was in an OT '85 Caprice station wagon that my kids referred to as "the hearse." The 305 would have probably been OK in a smaller/lighter car, but the 305 in the hearse was underpowered. I have no doubt that the hearse would have gotten better mileage with a 350.

 

man let me know where you are finding these 1200 dollar long blocks at! Gone are the days of getting the 290 horse 350 for 1200 bucks. Last one I priced was 2400 plus 200 to ship it to a depot for pick up. I built my last 283 with carefully selected quality rebuilder parts with all machine work done on good cores that did t need a ton of work to be good and had 1800 bucks in the long block plus it sounds like an old vette with the 097 cam and runs it’s but off. I did assemble it myself and not everyone can do that. But for the price comparative to a 350 190 horse crate motor, I know it’s not a 305, it would cost about the same for the machine shop to assemble it.