Projects " Peel and Seal" for sound deadening questions ?

I've got my interior out of my Plymouth, and want to get rid of some road noise. What's your views on using "peel and Seal" roofing material frome Lowes 6"x25' $19.58 . I live in N.E Ohio so summers can get in the hight upper 90's. Would this product be a poor choice ? The wagon has a lot of surface area, so thing like Dynamat are out of the buget. Also Since Peel and Seal is a Rubberized Asphalt product, will it have a bad oder ? I'm sure some of you may have used this...give me your opinon. Thanks

 

I use it all the time , I use a heat gun on the tar side to get hot it will stick a lot better than just peeling of the paper , then use the paper for a pattern for the next panel.

 

Poor man’s dynamat

 

Used it a lot, always good for me.

 

These types of products are not sound deadeners by themselves... the materials used are not dense enough to absorb sound waves. They do reduce sound by adding mass to the panel they are adhered to, thereby changing the frequency at which that particular panel will act like the cone in a speaker. The repair tapes are quite effective from that standpoint, and a lot more economical than the "other" products on the market.

 

There is Amazon blue sound deadener. I got two packs for the 57. But did it with about 1.
I only did the floor so far. Don't forget that these butyl type deadener need seam tape along the edges.

 

I'm thinking it all depends on how much you want to spend and how much effort you want to put into research for the best sound and heat dead control materials out there. The guys on the car audio pages usually stay on top of the sound thing both for taking care of sound they don't want to taking care of panels wanting to vibrate because of the sound they do want.

 

You don't want the asphalt based peal & stick stuff. If the temps get near 100 in the summer sun, they begin to break down and can make a huge mess.
The stuff made with butyl peal & stick stuff stands up to higher temps and doesn't seem to break down as bad.

You might want to look into "Kil-mat". I used stuff called "NOICO .080" (doesn't have the company name printed on it) on several vehicles, but it was made in Russia, so it might not be available these days. Both were available @ Amazon and are insolation/sound deadener and both are rolled in after the peal & stick. The "sound deadener" part reduces vibration and eliminates most of the "tinny" sound inside of the car. I used (2) 36 square feet boxes of material to cover the entire inside of the coupe (except inside of the doors). It alone dropped the inside temp a noticeable amount when the car sat in the hot summer sun.

 

I agree don’t use asphalt base. The heat will make a mess. I’ve used this for years. Apply it with Dap Brush on Adhesive
Not the spray on crap. It doesn’t hold.

 

Works for me.I have it in three cars and live in south florida.

 

Yeah, i've used this bubble type stuff for 3 cars and been happy with it. Cuts easy with scissors and easily formed to just about anything. No smell, etc. I use it all over, door panels, roof, firewall help, etc. I use the 3M 77 spray glue, goes on easy and comes off easy, not tearing the insulation. Never problems with not holding. Think i got mine at Lowe's or Home Depot, cheap.

 

Several years ago I priced out the tar based "peal and seal" vs the off brand butyl rubber sound deadening products from Amazon- Noico, Killmat, Siless, Amazon blue and found that they were cheaper per square foot than the tar based products.
I have done 2 vehicles now, and continue to buy Noico or Siless, depending only on which I can find for the best price.
For some reason the Amazon Blue was way more $$ per ft, and I felt the listings were misleading with quantity per pack.
You will see several thicknesses. I use the thin stuff for places I want to cover 100%, like the floor, then use the thicker inside doors and roof where I can't or don't want 100% coverage.

I have done a truck cab and my Plymouth's floors and doors. Best I can tell, there is no fast way to do it, but on both I had good results,
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1948-plymouth-coupe.1251889/page-2#post-14487812
Down a little ways are the pictures I took while doing my Plymouth.

According to car audio guys, you need something like 3 layers:
Deadening, absorbing/isolating and blocking.
The butyl deadens, and blocks a little.
Stuff like carpet pad or Jute, carpets and upholstery absorb, and serves to isolate the inside of the vehicle from outside noise and vibration.
They will use Mass Loaded Vinyl over the isolation layer to block out anything else that gets through. I skip this step. You get to the point where more sound is coming through your windlacing and windows than though the rest of the car.

I use the mylar/bubble wrap insulation too, but as a heat barrier. I dont think it does much for sound. A rectangle or two of butyl for the roof, then a full length sheet of the bubble stuff is great for heat and noise.

 

I’ve used the Lowes stuff on a couple of cars, no problems. It might have a little smell for a couple of days, but anything new will have. We regularly get 90*+ days here in the summer, never had a melting problem or increased smell when it was hot. Your experience might be different….

 

I have used the peel and seal asphalt based stuff on a few projects. I would not advise you to use it over head. When I apply it, I make sure that the surface is cleaned well, I them peel and stick it in the desired area. When I get done with all of the application, I use a butane/ propane torch to heat it and I roll it with a small wall paper roller. This extra step seems to really help it stick. It also helps the seams lay flatter.

 

Thanks, Guys. I'm just looking to reduce road noise. I rarely turn on my radio. But also don't want a smelly, sicky mess either.

 

I used the type from Lowe's & Home Depot in the past and it seemed to help with the heat but sound proofing was minimal.





A few years ago I finally installed a real interior and did a little homework and decided I would spend the extra money and use a well rated insulation and installed the KilMat, floor, firewall, doors, roof, etc.
yeah it cost more but I was only going to do it one time, after the interior was installed the car is a lot quieter and the noise is greatly diminished. HRP

 

I have Fat-Mat in a couple of mine & seems to work very well.

It is about the same as Dyna-Mat, but is a little cheaper.

God bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

"Losers make promises they often break. Winners make commitments they always keep." – Denis Waitley

 

I've used the Lowes stuff under the carpeting in a bunch of my cars and I feel like it does a great job for the price and never had an issue with a smell or "melting", although I live in cold-ass Wisconsin so my test case might not be the best comparison. It's pretty thin but it's cheap enough to double up in areas that might need to be doubled up.

I never tried it under a headliner though (above a headliner, technically, I guess) because I think it'd be too heavy and sag. That's where maybe that bubble wrap type stuff might be better. But on the floor I think the Lowes stuff is a real good product for the budget builder.

 

I actually put this stuff under the carpet and door panels on a black interiored convertible. I ve never had any problem with smell or anything. It helped with the tin can sound, and also some heat issues. Obviously with a convertible, I was not able to get rid of road noise or heat, but it did significantly reduce both.

 

I just checked the current prices of peel and seal (40mil, best I could tell) vs Siless brand 50mil Butyl deadener, and the P&S is $0.09 per sqft cheaper, but you have to buy it in a 100sqft role for $132 vs the Siless that comes in a 52sqft pack for $70, with smaller cheaper packs also available.

ETA:per Gene's pricing the Noico is only $0.05per ft for 80mil. Thicker is better.

There were also a few brands that may be cheaper, but I priced the brand I have used and was happy with.
Siless, killmat and likely a few others are all made in Ukraine, probably all in the same factory.
Amazon blue, which does cost more, is made in China.

So, even if it doesn't stink or get messy, why mess with the P&S??

 

So I just did a little digging.
The NOICO .080 is still available. It comes without advertising, and can be bought with silver foil backing, or black foil backing (at a higher price, it was $2 bucks per box higher when I bought the last couple boxes, pre covid, but the difference is more now). I paid the extra money for the black because I have no idea how long it might be before a real headliner might get installed (probably never on the coupe). I have it in my 49 pickup, and in my 48 Plymouth coupe. I have just under two boxes of 36 square foot boxes (72 square foot) in the 49 truck cab, every inside surface that faces outward is covered except the inside of the doors (the doors are only 2" wide and I can't get my hand in but a few small places). I've installed it for the insolation purposes (the sound deadener is a plus), so the coverage is pretty complete. It comes in 29 1/2" x 19 3/4" pieces (6 per 36 sq ft box). You can cut it with a utility knife. Peal some backing off, and stick it to clean metal (you can move it a few times to get it where you want), Once in position, you roll it with a flat roller (or press it in place with a smooth surface handle) until the bumps in the foil are flat. Once pressed into position, its difficult to move. (I'm posting pictures of it rolled into place).

The best pricing on the silver is actually at Summit right now. A 6 piece box of the silver NOICO .080 is $47 and change w/free delivery. It is foil, it can be painted with a spray bomb, I'd buy the silver and paint it if I was doing it now.
It appears the best way to buy the black NOICO .080 is in 10 Sq Ft packages on Amazon (or ebay) at $29 & change. A 36 Sq Ft box is over $200.
They sell a roller ($10), it works pretty well on wide open spaces, but doesn't fit in tight places very well (1" diameter drum). I actually pulled a 2" wide flat scrapper (or its handle) across the foil to press it in tight places.

Pictures or it didn't happen. I don't have pics of the installation process, but I have some of finished areas captured in pic of other stuff during the truck build (too much off topic stuff on the truck for this board).
The last picture is in my 48 Plymouth coupe.

When I put the coupe together, I used the silver coated bubble wrap stuff (from Menards) with 3M brush on glue on clean metal. Its a pretty good insulation, not much for sound deadener. I drive the coupe with the windows down at highway speeds. After 4 summers, the brush on glue started to fail. The next summer, chunks of the bubble wrap started coming off the bottom side of the roof while driving on the highway. A clean up and spray glue only lasted a summer. Even with a white painted roof, the missing insulation made the car much hotter inside.
In 2018, I had to redo the rear window. At that time, I again cleaned to the bare clean steel, and installed the NOICO. I replaced the bubble wrap on every surface except inside the doors (nothing was inside of the doors). The bubble wrap stuff is still under the carpet, and on the firewall. Every place else the bubble wrap was replaced with the NOICO. At this point, its still as tight to the metal as it was when 1st installed.
The car is cooler then it ever was with the bubble wrap, and the added sound deadener made the car a lot more fun to drive.

 

Wonder how much the price will go up now that the Ukraine is at war with russia?

 

I used harbor freight ant-fatigue floor mats. I originally just put it under the seat but eventually did the whole floor. Huge difference in temperature and sound. Basically a close cell foam insulation that is reasonably thin and dense. Cheap too.

 

I did nearly the same as above. My local hdwr guy got a big stack of surplus 1/4" mats, black closed cell foam, about 24X48. 2 buck each, I bought 10 and use for a lot of stuff. Made one hellua nice cowl vent gasket, totally flat and cut to size. Beats the hell outta roll stuff for the gasket. I'll do the whole floor both sides, maybe even 2 layers under the back seat. I have leftover Dyna from another project, enough to do the doors and 1/4 panel insides. I expect it to do quite well.

 

I've used the Peel and Seal flashing from Lowes in 2 cars. It's been in my A pickup through half a dozen or so So Cal summers with temps well above 100* f; it does not smell or run in the summer heat as some have claimed it will. Whether it will help as sound deadner or not I cannot really say, just wanted to say that once it's installed it appears to be very stable. I find it interesting that on the Lowe's website for this product, in the reviews there are as many, or more, reviews from those that have used it in the cars as from those that have used it as flashing on their buildings, and everyone seems to be very satisfied with it; so I'm not really sure why some want to downgrade it so much when they apparantly have not used it, but that's the HAMB for ya.

 

I used the Noico in my stock Model A pretty extensively. Doors, cowl, under floorboards, quarters & inside back panel.
It made a huge difference in getting rid of the tinny sound & rattles.

 

I like the price comparisons on peel and seal and other brands. I found the same, it was very similar cost for Noico/ killmat / amazon brand etc.

I used 1 layer of kilmat then a layer of the double sided foil mat on the floor of my daily 2006 silverad*. It was quieter than factory jute padding.
I'll do inside the doors with foil soon, while I have the door panels off for other fixes.

 

found that dead mice & rats along chewed newspaers does a great job - is a little difficult to drive with all of the tree style pine scent air freshners hanging everywhere bouncing around

 

Price comparisons can be tricky. Shopping around for a future purchase I found this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3346717412...S7b6cs5rISuNA%2Bs%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675

Sounded great, 50sqft of butyl at a great price. Then noticed the actual dimensions, 40x100cm. Way less that 50 sqft, mor like 5. Buyer beware.

 

The prices I posted above I found yesterday.
The current price of the .080 NOICO 36 SQ FT black is over $200. The same material thickness, and SQ FT package with silver foil instead of black foil is still in the $70 range (except Summits nearly 1/2 off the cost price). When I bought the same size box of the same stuff in 2018, it cost $68 for the 36 SQ FT box with black foil, the silver foil was $2 less for the 36 SQ FT box.

I suspect most companies, buy a large quantity and sell it at whatever price, but when they buy the next load the price is adjusted.

You are correct. I haven't use the Lowes stuff.

I have seen reports and I have seen the results of Eastwood's asphalt based product used in cars. What a mess! I've also heard about other asphalt based products from other suppliers that had complaints of a tar smell and having it leak and ooze on hot days in the summer.

If I'm asked about a product, I feel obligated to post warnings concerning things I have heard and seen about a product that may have issues. I don't need to use a product myself to warn of possible problems. What I've posted concerned asphalt based products without naming any company, until now.