Technical Steering arm questions/location

I am building a 32 roadster pick up, I am mounting the spring behind the axle hung on the radius rods. The tie rod is hitting the spring hanger in the middle and there is no swing before hitting the spring. I am looking at mounting the steering arms upside down as shown in the pictures. Not that deep of a drop but the idea is there. I am putting cowl steering on the truck so there is no crossover issue for steering other than the tie rods. Would this tie rod location create any steering issues?

 

Do both of those spindles have two holes in the steering arms?

If so, move the tie rod to the rear holes.

What is happening there?

 

Is it possible to get any more bad ideas on how to build a front end in one post?

 

BJR, why should we stop with just bashing the front suspension, neverdun, lets see some pix of that rear end!, we dare you, we double dare you!

 

From a steering perspective it should be OK providing there's enough clearance for the tie rod on full droop.

Might have cooling issues though?

Expanding on gimpys point, there are steering arms with the second hole for right hand drive applications.

Chris

 

Read this before doing cowl steering.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/cowl-steering-just-stop.1101046/#post-12488593

 

Make longer arms.

 

The front cross member should only be at 7 to 8 Degs. Then the steering arms may be in the correct position and clear the tie rod. JMO

 

I'd leave the steering arms in the conventional position and move the tie rod to the rear holes. You need to check for clearance at full lock to lock movement and full up and down suspension travel. In the position you have shown with the tie rod above the frame you will probably have a clash with the radiator at full lock.
It's also worth noting that the radius rods you are using sit low behind the axle, later types sit high and are designed for the tie rod to pass underneath.

 

I've done this a couple times and have used the extra long steering arms from Pete & Jake's that they make for their spring behind the axle application.

 

The OP said he "flipped" the arms, but to do that, the arms would have to swap sides as well, which means the extra hole on the current drivers side was intended for the cross-steer drag link to the passengers side. Thus, no extra hole on the current passengers side since its supposed to be on the drivers side.

Dizzy yet?

@krylon32 seems to have the idea. Didn't know there was such a thing....

 

I thought the steering arm with two holes one is for the cross steering drag link, correct yes or no. In which case you would only have 2 holes in one arm. I do understand you can use the same arms on a side steering setup.

 

They hit the spring as shown in the pictur when below.

 

Thank you.

 

Can't use the same arm for side steer
Direction would be wrong. Thank you though.

 

Here you go, any more comments?

 

Sorry I did not make my self clear. What I should have said was that you could the present arms still for the tie rod and a separate arm on the spindle for the drag link. But even that would not solve your problem.

 

Have you checked kingpin angles on this axle? It appears to be tilted back at a pretty extreme angle that's far greater than the usual angle? And brining it up to around 7 degrees appears it might make the existing interference even greater. And moving it back a hole (if that's possible) might still be an issue once the front axle is adjusted to correct angle? Looks more like the steering arms might be better off flipped, or moved to different spindle mounting points?

 

7.5 degrees.

 

Doane Spencer roadster comes to mind.......

 

That is what will happen. Shorter drop/lift though.

 

Take a look at this thread by Blue One, titled "Transverse Front Suspension Travel" from Dec. 2018, esp. pages 3,4,5. He had a similar problem with his tie rod hitting.

 

Re-drill the spring perch bolt holes in the bones 1" farther towards the axle.

Move the mounts for the wishbones on the frame back 1".

 

That sure as hell ain't 7.5 degrees if that is ride height!? Looks like low double digits easily

And don't worry about the naysayers on cowl steering. It wasn't an issue until a couple folks jumped on the anti bandwagon

 

It may be lense distortion. Scroll back up and look at the jack in the picture.

 

I know, hard to tell for sure

 

thanks for the heads up. I just read the entire thread. I ordered new xl steering arms today from super bell/ p&j. one way or another it's going to work.

 

ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. His radius rods and spring are mounted the same way. Rolling Bones uses the same configuration but with a stock axle. I just bought a '32 heavy axle to try instead of the super bell 5" dropped one to see how I liked it...dropped went back in.

 

So what's wrong with the front end on the Doane Spencer roadster??????

 

This is the way I do it. If you set up the front crossmember this way, you run the stock spindles and arms. The tie rod runs under the bones with no interference.