The engine builder -finally- finished up his work. By coincidence my folks were in Norther California visiting my brother when the engine was ready, so they met the builder and picked up the engine. I've got it back in Texas now. I'm really happy with most of the work, but the builder ran into a snag with the valves and did what he could with available parts. The retainers are old style pin-locks, which I want to avoid. I'll go ahead and have custom valves cut to match the specs for the stems and heads the block is setup for, just so I can run modern retainers and locks. The original style pin-locks and stamped steel retainers.
October in Texas is chock full of events, as that's when the weather finally turns nice. So, I didn't do much other than order more parts. But, we did work on the motor a little bit this weekend. Sized the rod Babbitt and changed out the cam gear. First, though the rods are Babbitted to standard size, that's still a little tight. If tightened up as-is, even with the shim pack, they are locked up solid on the crank. Standard practice back in the day was to take a Babbitt knife and whittle down the Babbitt until you could barely spin the rods. Then assemble the motor, fill it with oil and run it hot until the Babbitt was worn or pounded down to size. That method sucks, and it doesn't really result in a good smooth surface, ruining the longevity of the engine. For performance Babbitt you use a grinding compound and tighten up the rods in steps as you shape the Babbitt. This video is a good example, and is the method I followed. The guy in the video is renowned for his engines. I tracked down a seller of this magic "Timesaver" lapping compound. It's reported to break down and not harm hard metals, but to lap in the soft metals without embedding into them. Looking at it, I suspect it's a sulfur crystal of some sort. It comes as a dry powder in a can. I mixed it with some straight 30w I had and applied it with an acid brush to the Babbitt surfaces. Jeff and I took turns rotating the rods, tightening them in steps and applying more compound. The cutting power of the compound wore down pretty quickly, so we'd tighten up the rod so it moved stiffly, get it so it would move easily at that tightness, and then take it apart to give it a quick wipe and apply another coat. It took about 20 minutes per rod. Those brass shims in between the rod halves are actually shim packs. Each one has ten thin brass shims in there. When the Babbitt has worn and a rod starts ticking, you can remove an inspection plate in the oil pan to access the rods. By removing the cap and peeling away one layer of the shim, then buttoning up everything, you can tighten up the Babbitt by about three thousandths of an inch. The rods we are using are a modern reproduction that incorporates the oil dipper on the cap like Model A rods. If you use stock rods, you can modify a set of sheet metal scoops that came stock on some '40s Chevrolet engine. You have to mangle them up a bit, clearance the sides, bending them around the cap, and slightly elongating the bolt holes. The stock rods look like this. Our rods look like this. Note the tang on the bottom of the cap. That's a dipper with a hole in the middle that scoops up oil out of the sump and pushes it into grooves in the rod Babbitt. You may have noticed the aluminum cam gear. The stock parts were fiber. Aside from tearing apart with non-stock cam lifts or spring pressure, the pieces would clog up what little of an oil system the Model T has. A popular mod is to change over to a metal gear. Well, the builder lost my gear and sent the engine back with this aluminum gear and standard cam gear nut. I bought another bronze gear from the gear cutter in California and slapped it on the cam. I'm waiting for the correct cam gear nut to arrive to finish it up. The distributor setup I'm using requires a special nut, which is still available, but I forgot that it was lost also and just realized it last week. We pulled the crank and rods and cleaned up all the lapping compound. We gauged the Babbitt to find that we had right at 1.5 thou of clearance. I'm bringing the rods, pistons, wrist pins and the crank to my local engine builders, Horsepower Research, where they will make fun of my parts and then balance the crank on the same machines they balance their 3000hp cranks.
Still on a break from the Model T right now. Been busy with a couple other projects while we wait on motor stuff. Last year we finished up this SAAB 96 Monte Carlo. It was originally equipped with a hotted up 2-stroke, but sometime in the past someone swapped in a V4. It's a very rare sunroof model and is in solid shape, also rare for a SAAB of this vintage. We restored the brakes, suspension, and fuel system. Painted the engine compartment. Swapped on a set of rally tires shipped from the UK, as there weren't any small enough in North America. Built another fire breathing SAAB motor, and rewired half the car. Late in the year we picked up this derelict '63 Avanti R1. It's a hard to find manual transmission car, and it has AC, which the supercharged cars didn't have. It's been sitting in the Florida sun for 30 years and the paint is toast, the interior looks like a bag of potato chips, and it was recently broken into and was missing the passenger door window. It had been sitting for a couple years in Texas. We got the engine running right, checked out the brakes and wheel bearings (all good), and touched up some of the electrics. Got everything working except the electric door windows. Jeff ordered an updated window motor kit that simplifies the wiring. This was a not just a fix for this car, but a tryout for his other partially restored and painted '64 Avanti that's been waiting in the wings for ten years. Had to reinforce some broken fiberglass in the door, welded up the window tracks that had broken, and adjusted the slack door hinges. Jeff has been cruising it around a little and we're waiting for the replacement passenger door glass to arrive. Plans are to put a carpet kit in it, weld up the broken passenger seat hinge, and maybe put a set of original style tall bias ply tires on it. And to cap off the very end of the year, this SAAB Sonett III showed up on Dallas Craigslist. It has no title, which is a $500 fix, and the glue holding the passenger door skin failed, so it fell off. Brake master cylinder is locked up, driver door lock is frozen with a key broken off in it, the paint is chalky, window tracks are sticky, and someone polished the soccer ball wheels and clear lacquered then, which is peeling off. The good sides are that it's complete, interior is in great shape, someone built a fantastic custom engine with all the expensive parts, and the purchase price was cheap. Just picked it up, so we'll see what it takes.
Waiting on new transmission drums. I need new reverse and low speed drums. I've got two full sets out of the car. One is worn to crap. The other is worn to crap -AND- seized to the main input shaft. I've got another set in a transmission that is currently in the truck, but through the inspection cover they don't look all that great either. I can get new drums, but I need the original gears to have them riveted to the drums. Turns out all my gears also look pretty bad. So, I can get new gears to go with my new drums. It's spendy. Like more expensive than the fully counterwighted crank expensive. But I've ordered them from the gear guy. He'll send them to the drum guy who will rivet them on and balance them. Then I'll be able to make some more progress. Removing a drum-gear stack from the flywheel. You can see the massive pitting in these drums. Fortunately the flywheel was salvageable. And just for fun, here's the back of the flywheel (points to the front of the truck). Those are magnets. They make up the magneto, which provides high current for the coils. They are a source of misery. And weigh about 30lbs. I've removed them and we're going to run a standard alternator and coil and distributor style ignition. The flywheel ring gear was secured with brass screws that hold on the magnets on one side and the ring gear on the other. All were seized to the flywheel and got drilled out.
The new transmission drums -FINALLY- showed up. The guy that makes them thinks this will be his last batch, maybe. He's had a hard time getting the gears that he rivets onto them. This spurred another round of work to complete the engine and start on the transmission. We took stock of what new parts I had on-hand, what new parts were needed, and what old parts were going to be salvaged. We'll end up restoring the flywheel and using a great condition brake drum, for the internals, and the cast iron transmission "top" called a hogshead and the three pedals and their shafts. Finished stripping down the flywheel. Got the surface cleaned up. Had to run a tap through all the threaded holes to clean them up. Found out the oil slinger set I bought required a lot more modification to the flywheel than I wanted to do, AND, the fasteners they sent with it are the wrong thread for the reproduction starter ring gear. So, punt... and bought a different set of oil slingers that use the existing holes and are guaranteed to come with the oddball 1/4-24 bolts needed for the ring gear. What a hassle, and who the hell uses 1/4-24 thread? Put the flywheel aside while waiting for parts. And turned back to the engine. Put the crank into the block for the final time. Gave the journals and bores a thorough cleaning, lubed up the main journals, dropped the crank into the block. Lubed up the main caps, added the shims, dropped them on and started a torque sequence. Ford didn't have any torque specs for anything, and I mean anything. So you have to either calculate the torque it can take, or copy other accomplished builders (or internet bullshitters). Masked off the engine block for paint. Decided to go boring on the color, and used "Ford Grey". Installed the stock oiling system, a funnel that grabs oil thrown around by the magnets (that were deleted) or the slingers (which will be installed) and a tube that runs to the front of the oil pan. That's it. The oil runs back to the rear of the engine and collects in low spots in the oil pan under each rod. The rod dips into these four pools and scoops oil into the rod journal from the bottom and slings it around to drop into a port in the top of the rod journal. Splash oiling. It works as long as the revs aren't too high, and that's one of the reasons we are keeping the revs down to 2200 RPM or so. The silver part is the funnel. Next, made some oiling modifications to the hogshead. One of the issues is that there are four shafts that enter the cast iron housing and they have no seals. So oil continually weeps out of them. The shafts are a convenient 5/8" diameter. So I bought a 7/8" counterbore with a 5/8" pilot and cut a 0.100" recess for a modern shaft seal (Timken 340849). All three of these fit under shaft supports that will bolt over them, two on the outside and one on the inside that took I thought we could get with a 90 degree head, but ended up fabbing up a long extension. Most guys that add seals here just chamfer the hole and stuff an o-ring into the recess, but that never really works. The counterbore cutting tool Finished counterbores on the hogshead The long extension. It's an aluminum tube that had an ID just right to fit the cutting tool. Had to hammer the end tighter and then hammer it onto the cutter while in place. Rigged like nobody's business, but it worked. Next problem, getting MORE oil to the front of the engine so a steady supply of oil is always flowing into the four pools in the pan. This took a fancy kit of parts and some butchering of the hogshead and oil pan. The kit came with a couple templates that actually fit and worked. With actual dimensions. Drilled a couple holes to start, then finished it with a burr cutter. The finished fitting on the oil pan. The finished fitting on the hogshead. Oh, and we threw a bit of paint on it. And the front cover, and the generator bracket, and the water inlet from the drivers side of the block.
Back to the engine. I collected all the parts to inspect them and start balancing everything and found, to my horror, I had lost the wrist pins! And these weren't normal wrist pins. They are a super thick wall pin with a groove in them for the wrist pin bolt. Crap. I went through all my parts storage at home. Through the parts at Jeff's garage. Through the small pile I have at work. Through the piles I have for other projects. Nothing. On a whim I called Horsepower Research where I bought them, and worked on them, to see if they had them, and amazingly, they had them there with a note that they might me mine. It had taken a while for the special wrist pin bolts to come in, but they finally showed up. But with them we had all the parts to install the pistons. We assembled the rod and piston, and then installed the rings. The old and the new. Custom high compression piston with a modern ring package on an old rod with Babitt and splash oiling. Got to buy a new piston compressor for this one. Went ahead and bought a new deadblow too. Next we dry fit all the head studs as a last verification that they were the right length. Dropped the head on them to make sure we didn't run out of thread either way. Next, pulled out the studs, cleaned and primed the studs and applied some high torque thread locking compound. Double nutted them and torqued them into the block. Added a modern Fel-Pro MLS head gasket (can you believe they make that for the Model T?), dropped the head on and torqued on the nuts and washers. Beauty shot of the high compression Pruss head, with Milidon studs and nuts. I had tested the spark plugs before installing the head. The manufacturer told me to use Champion N5C plugs, which are a 14mm x 0.750" reach. And those were sticking out a ridiculous amount into the chamber. I've got a set of NGK 14mm x 0.500" reach extended plugs on their way.
In 2008 for the 100th anniversary of the Model T, we drove stock Model Ts from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. Get ready to have fun. Wayno
After assembling the longblock of the engine, it's time for the transmission. Unlike modern cars the T has an integrated engine, transmission and magneto. We've removed the magneto, removing a massive amount of weight from the flywheel. We had previously prepped the flywheel by cleaning the threads for the ring gear that were a weird 1/4-24 thread pitch. Since we are replacing the thick magneto magnets with thin paddles to do the same job of splashing the oil, the bolts to hold them in have to be shorter. Stock length bolts are available from Model T shops, but shorter versions are difficult to source. I eventually found a batch from a shop that supplies hop-up parts for Ts and bought a thread chaser from a shop that specialized in vintage Harley parts. The customized planetary triple gears (replaced bushings with needle bearings) required custom diameter shafts for them to rotate on. The pins are slightly larger diameter where they press into the freewheel, and slightly smaller diameter where they ride in the bearings. They also require a spacer to duplicate the lip of the original bushing. Hammering the pins into the freewheel. The triple gears bored out for the needle bearings and their spacers that space them up off the flywheel. Bolting the flywheel to the crank. The oil-splash paddles are visible on the back. The input shaft is sandwiched between the crank and flywheel. This is a special input shaft. One of the issues in the Model T motor is that the transmission input shaft is bent, or is bolted to a bent crank flange, and runs non concentric in the transmission. This stress drags down the transmission, but worse, it causes a bending moment in the crank, eventually breaking the crank. Traditionally this is solved by very careful preparation of the oil pan that holds the transmission output bearing, aka the fourth main bearing, careful machining of the input shaft and crank to verify concentric operation, and even more careful installation of the fourth main which is babbit installed in a sheetmetal cup called the "ballcap" bolted to the back of the hogshead and oil pan. This is a PITA, is fraught with potential for error, and can be thrown off by hard use. A novel solution is a CV style input shaft. The stock input shaft has a rigid flange that is flush with the crank flange. By seperating the flange and the shaft and allowing some concentric flex while still driving it, the threat of broken crank is highly reduced. Lots of purist turn up their noses and think everything has to be stock. They will spend days prepping the stock parts for use and still suffer failures. I'm failure adverse, and have not seen any issues using the CV input shaft. So I splashed out and got on a waiting list for one. The bronze flange ring is an incredibly precise fit to the hardened steel shaft. Despite our best efforts, we couldn't get the spare transmission drums apart and salvage them. After closer inspection (maybe a little sour grapes) we decided the drums were it too rough of a condition to even pursue them. We had bought a good clutch drum at a swap meet, but didn't have a reverse or low speed drum and their respective gears. So I called around to the two guys that make replacement new drums, and another guy that makes the gears. I had the gears shipped to one of the drum guys to have them riveted to the drum and then have the rivet heads machined down. This was expensive. I can see while a lot of the old Model T guys will reuse parts long beyond their useful life. But these new drums are already balanced, have bushings installed and honed, the webs are uncracked, and they have a smooth drum surface to present to the bands. Here the three drums and their gears are going together. The stack of drums. Test fitting and timing the triple gears to the gears on the three drums. If the timing is not done right, the transmission locks up! Prepped the freewheel with the spacers and a thick oil mixture. We used safety wire to hold the triple gears to the drums and dropped them onto the flywheel. After seating everything we cut the wire and pulled it out. Installed a drive key to hold the input shaft to the inner clutch basket. And then installed a special inner clutch basket. This one has the inner hole to match the Model T input shaft and outer splines to match a TH400 transmission clutch disc. Normally a Model T clutch disc stack has steel discs with six outer teeth and fiber discs with six inner teeth. Because the fiber discs are fairly thick, there are only about seven total discs. By switching to a TH400 disc, we have many more inner teeth and double the number of discs. This allows more power throughput and less drag, giving a better "neutral" to the transmission. It also pollutes the oil less, builds less heat, and wears the drum less. Some of the original inner drums we saw had splines that had teeth that would hang up the clutch. This assembly is the clutch release mechanism. It's surprisingly close to a Borg & Beck clutch plate with an external spring and release mechanism. I've put a slightly heavier than stock spring in the assembly. It was a bear to assemble. And here it is installed on the clutch and drum stack. The three fingers have adjustment screws to set the clutch engagement. And everything is either cotterpinned or safety wired. The cotter pins are sort of half installed so they can more easily be pulled out in case we have to adjust the clutch engagement through the access lid of the transmission. Next we built up the three transmission bands, two narrow ones for the low speed and reverse drums and one wide one for the clutch. We elected to use Kevlar material, which has a break-in period and then should be stable. If abused it's hard on the drums, but unlikely to come apart or pollute the oil too much. These are carefully trimmed and riveted to the steel bands with brass rivets. The bands had to be shaped to be the correct radius and held in that shape during the riveting. Otherwise we'd have bunching of the lining. Holding the bands to the drums with safety wire. The wire will be cut and removed after the hogshead is installed. The engine and transmission as it sits at this point.
Next step was to install the front timing cover. This has to be absolutely flush with the bottom of the block, we we bolted the cover and block together in that plate using some machined hold-down clamps from the mill. This timing cover is another special part. The Model T normally had a style of "distributor cap" that was concentric to the cam. They are problematic and only work with the original coils, which we are ditching. Today you can buy a distributor that bolts to the stock timing cover. These have some minor lube and timing issues. Back in the '30s you could buy a replacement timing cover that integrated the distributor. These Bosch America timing covers are somewhat rare and often have broken tabs for the oil pan or the timing controls. Backtracking, we had already installed the bronze timing gear to the cam. This is important. Normally the Model T uses a fiber timing gear. But with a performance cam and a distributor drive you risk stripping the teeth off the gear. Aluminum gears are commonly used, but they make noise. The bronze gears are more expensive. On top of the cam bear is a special nut and gear that drive the distributor. All the pieces were sent to the engine machinist, but he lost them during a move and I had to buy replacement parts. That silver washer under the black nut is a special soft washer with some ASME spec for distributing pressure over a larger area. It slightly changed the timing of the distributor and had to be accounted for in the gear mesh. To install the front timing cover the alternator and distributor have to be in place. The alternator is also driven by the cam gear. This is originally a low output 6v generator, as the car was really designed to be run off the magneto. But we have ditched the magneto and want to use a 12v ignition coil and bulbs. So I bought a custom built alternator with a Model T drive gear installed. Forgot to mention that we installed half the front crank seal in the timing cover. It's an old style rope seal, but modernized with Teflon impregnation. It's not too period and so far is the most modern visible part of the car. We finished the timing cover with an extended breather tube and an adjustable bronze cam button. That's the slotted stud and large locknut on the front. These aren't available from the vendors so we made them up from some bronze bolts and nuts from McMaster. Next is the oil pan. We're test fitting it to the engine and counterweighted crank. And it doesn't fit. Inside the oil pan are the two horseshoe reinforcements that the inspection plate is bolted to and two oil transfer tubes. One of the oil tubes and funnels is stock, but we added the additional mirror image tube to the other side. These tubes have a flange that is sandwiched between the horseshoe reinforcements and the pan. They move oil from the bellhousing to the front of the engine. The rear crank counterweight hits the reinforcement, bad. We tried to grind down the reinforcement, but it wasn't enough. It was going to have to be cut into two pieces. But in two pieces it would float around in the pan and be almost impossible to install the inspection plate. It could all be installed on the bench OK, but once installed on the engine where access to the interior of the pan was impossible, we'd never get it back in place once the inspection cover was removed. So, we welded in some studs and ground down the reinforcement ends. This cleared that rear counterweight. Installed the second half of the front crank seal. It's Teflon coated rope that is hammered into the seal cavity with a large socket. Lots of people try to substitute a modern seal here, and it can be done. But if a one piece seal fails, you have to remove the timing cover to replace it. And our timing cover is a PITA to install, so we stuck with the two piece rope front seal. Final step is to install the pan to the block, including the two inside corner reinforcements. We used rubber seal backed washers under those bolts in an attempt to prevent oil leaks. Remember that I said that the pan holds the fourth main. To do that accurately the pan has to be "straightened" on a pan jig. This jig was a standard Model T engine rebuild tool. They are hard to find in good shape today, and the few that exist have made their way to the guys that build a lot of motors. I had our engine machinist evaluate two pans I sent him and told him to straighten the best one. He ended up doing both and sent them both back. For future reference, top view of the transmission hanging on the end of the crank with the oil pan underneath and the bands wrapped around the drums. You can see the paddles on the back of the flywheel where the magneto magnets would normally go. And down in the cavity you can see the two funnel mouths of the oil tubes that move the oil to the front of the pan. Next was to finish the hogshead. We had to install the pedals, band adjusters and rivet in a new bronze clutch release horseshoe that sits over the cup that pushes on the clutch spring. This went relatively easy. The linkage from the low speed pedal to the clutch was a little wonky and we had to replace and adjust some of those parts later on. The hogshead was test fit to the engine and we test fit the ballcap with the fourth main. We went to the warehouse and pulled the original engine out of the Model T. We forgot to bring tools to remove the headlight bar, and had to lift the engine extra high to clear the headlight bar. Loaded all the parts into the Model T and out engine hoist into the truck and hauled the car back to the garage. We decided to install the engine without the hogshead so we didn't have to work around the pedals. When we removed the engine in the warehouse he had to trim the floor opening around the engine to remove it. Hence the raw edge in this photo. The engine mounts to the chassis at three points. The front of the pan has a nose that is cradled in the cast front spring bracket and two wings that sit on top of the frame. To prevent the frame from kinking there are stuffing blocks that are inserted into the open side of the frame. Paper towels are stuffed into the flywheel cavity to prevent us from dropping anything into the oil pan. We installed the front crank pulley and hand starter parts, then clamped the pan nose to the casting. Next up was the upper water neck and integrated fan pulley. Normally there is a bushing in the fan pulley, but we used a custom version with sealed ball bearings. I thought I had the perfect flat belt from Gates, but it was just a little too tight. And unfortunately Gates doesn't make a flat belt, or even a ribbed belt in exactly the right size. So I've got some weird Indian made belts on the way to test them. Then the hogshead went back on the engine. Note we had to trim a little more floor for it. The band adjusters and springs went in next. That large threaded shaft on the exterior is the low speed adjuster, which needs the most frequent adjustment. The other two are inside the hogshead and the inspection plate has to be removed to adjust them. After the hogshead was installed we bolted up the starter. That's not a normal Model T starter. It's a modern gear reduction starter with a modern Bendix. The standard parts don't live long when subjected to 12v, and the standard Bendix is a pull style which eats up the flywheel, requires a large bulbous cover behind the pedals, and tends to develop dead spots. We have a hand starter, but with the compression and ignition we have, I'd like the electric starter to always work. This unit was made by WOSP starters in the UK that make heavy duty starters for vintage competition cars. When I asked about them in the US Model T community, nobody had ever heard of them or used them. The next installment will cover the radiator install, moving the steering "box" on the frame to get the column position correct for our large sizes, rebuilding the steering, fitting the hood, and finishing the brake master cylinder install.
I'm working on catching up with the current state. We just fired it up for the first time this last weekend.
Moki Dugway. Been there; done that; in a late model. Would someday like to go back with a dirt bike and ride it. If you go back there on your trip please post pix of the "T" on it. I'll be watching for your trip pix anyway when the time comes. b-t-w; reading this I'm learning a lot about T's since I know virtually nothing about them (mechanically).
I'll try to post both here and on Facebook during the trip. And yes, Model Ts are weird and fragile. I begged my pal to let me do a Model A instead. Something reasonable and normal, but he -had- to have that "100 year old" brag about the car.
I had been on most of these trails before, but not with an eye of driving a Model T over them. So I reconnoitered them on the way to Speedweek in 2022. Another one of the Moab area switchbacks we'll be on. Shafer Canyon Switchbacks Burr Trail Switchbacks And some of the Colorado locations Ophir Pass And Engineer Pass
Wow!!! What a thread, very cool build, man I gotta turn on my oxygen and rest after all that information. Oh yah cool SAAB, I had a 66 2 stroke SAAB years back, fun car ,buzzed like a chain saw., 3 cylinders, 3 carburetors ,pull up to the gas pump, dump a bottle of 2 stroke mix in the tank top of with gas, grab the rear bumper shake it up and down a few times and off you go, lots of miles and fun. Didn't know it was a 4spd on the column for a couple week when I first bought it, thought reverse was bad, had friends push me when ever I needed to reverse....then friends dad told me how to find reverse, pull out and down,
This is quite a buildup, looking forward to seeing more, and also hearing about the trip. Seeing this much in-depth mechanical work on the Model T just leaves me thinking I have a lot to learn if I ever wanted to take on a project of this depth.
That SAAB we built was a replacement for our rally car we used to compete in. It was a full-on-crazy built 2-stroke 1963 Bullnose SAAB. We sold it a while back and Jeff missed it enough that we built a milder street version.
I agree. Both the text and the accompanying photos are very well done - it's the sort of thing I'd like to see in an automotive magazine.
I'm really impressed with the thought going into this along with the execution. What a trip that you have planned and your desire to make it as much trouble free as possible ...on that note, I've not had much luck with the fuel pressure regulator you have pictured in your installation, especially at lower pressures. Maybe take a look at Malpassi brand fuel pressure regulator. I've had nothing but great experience with them on my A and T applications. Carry on.... looking forward to more
Would like to see the SAAB builds. Any place they're recorded, like the T saga? I don't do social media. At least the 99-bubble-type is time period for here, but w/o mods or Ryans' prior permission, would get "disappeared". It'd be worth reading to learn, more, - again. . Would you mind asking to put it up? Like the Sonnet, too. Saw both types run autocross in mid-late 70's, liked the sound. Quick little buggers. Couldn't find, much less afford them then, or now . My OT dd is a late 9-3 convert, so something rubbed off. The past on-topic dd's just rotted away from actual use. ;( . TIA. Marcus...
I’m just 45 minutes south of the Ophir pass turn off from Highway 550 and would love to check the build out. Noted the Engineer Pass sign what are your route plans and schedule going through southern Colorado?
Sorry, but we didn't record the builds of either of the SAAB sedans very well. I've got some scattered photos of the racecar build, and another handful of photos of the streetcar build. And almost no photos of the Sonnett or the Avanti. Both of those were built to sell, so they were sort of quick and dirty get it up-and-running style builds.
The Jalopy Journal
