I put a 318 with a torqueflite in a 1947 Desoto. I used the original rear end that has no provision for parking brakes. They make a disc brake kit that bolts between the drive shaft and differential, but not for a mopar. Any ideas on how to create a parking brake? I'm thinking maybe a brake line lock connected to the rear brakes. I could put another rear end in it, but the stock one works good, Thanks.
You will spend less money, and have less of a hassle just getting a Ford 8.8 rear. I think the 1992-2009 Ranger would work, but you'd need to double check your width. They have better drums that your current ones, and can be had in any number of ratios, and even limited-slip, right out of the self-service yard. All that, and you can still get the brake parts, seals, bearings, etc. at the local parts store.
Brake line lock may not be legal. It may have to be a mechanical system, or at least mechanicaly locked at the axle end
Many Chrysler cars had a drum parking brake behind the transmission. Should be easy enough to fangle something together, as you are using all Chrysler stuff anyway.
Rear end width should be 60 inches wms to wms. 95/03 Explorer is 59.81 Plenty of 8-3/4 E body mopar rears that are 60.70 that should work and not be bank breakers. Either way you stick with the same bolt pattern and get away from the keyed hubs.
Maybe something like this on the trans. I think the drum bolts to the back of the yoke (or something like that). Willys MB/Ford GPW Hey, it's "period correct" Mike
Honestly this would be a very good bet if you can hook up a linkage or cable to it. The willys parts are very reliable.
How would this go for a roadworthy certificate check ? Would,nt this just hold one wheel of the rear axle ? Would it allways be the same wheel ?
If you have room, there were a lot of motor home TFs with a parking brake on the back of the trans. Those can be used to replace your tail shaft and housing. but, that requires a new driveshaft with a bolt on front sliding yoke. U-pullit rear end may be cheaper.
You might even be able to use backing plates from a later Mopar rear end that came with parking brakes, on your rear. But you'd still have the funky axle/hub issue, and a gear ratio you probably won't be happy with. Finding a different rear end is probably the best way to go. Lots of Fords and Mopars used the 5 x 4.5" bolt circle that your car has.
You are aware that a driveline parking brake with a "unlocked" rear end won't hold well on slippery surfaces. Chrysler used the driveline brake for many years. I worked at a Dodge dealership and we had a heck of a time getting older Dodge trucks inspected. The inspector wanted both rear wheels to slide when yanking the emergency brake handle at about 3 mph. It wasn't part of the Illinois truck inspection which just said the emergency brake had to be operational. It was something this guy just insisted on.
In this day and age, this is by far the least expensive direction to go (If anyone can point me to a complete E body 8 3/4 I can buy for the same price I can buy an 8.8 for, I'm interested, PM me). The Willis drum looks a lot like the OEM Mopar unit used on the OP 47 Desoto and both could be adapted to the 727 trans with the above truck or industrial 727 tail shaft and tail housing, but the trans has to come apart to change the shaft. I've heard about guys that have installed the e brake drum on the rear axle drive shaft yoke, but you would still only get 1 wheel E brake like any driveshaft mounted E brake would give you (even that rotor & caliper thing), and you still have the crappy tapered and keyed drums, poor brakes, and a not so highway friendly rear gear.
I'm thinking the Motor homes or larger trucks that use the park brake on the tail shaft of the trans have a special tail shaft and have a yoke that is held on with a bolt rather than a slip yoke. It sounds great until you have to start changing things and making mods and maybe have to tear the trans down IF that tail shaft that holds the brake parts will even bolt on your trans or if one is even availble for it. Still the least expensive and less hassle is going to be swapping rear ends to one with park brakes and at the same time getting a gear rato that matches up with the engine and trans best for what you want to do with the car.
Similar situation. This happen when working on older trucks with 4 speeds. The parking brake for those are on the trans. So a rear upgrade is sometimes needed if ya update the trans. Some automatics were used in motorhomes. I have a parking brake set up for a th400. The 727 was available with that. But I’m not familiar with that set up to know if it’s an easy bolt on like a th400. Drive shafts are not the normal slip yoke type. Not a hard issue to overcome. Swapping a rear is simple. If you do swap a rear, grab all the parking brake pieces. Saves you a lot of headache.
727 with the parking brake in a motorhome had a shorter tail than the normal transmission, eh? He said he has a 318 with a torqueflite, most 318s were mated with the 904 or one of the later small transmissions, not a 727.
The 1 ton and 3/4 ton Dodge chassis MHs I’ve had, were 727’s and no trans ebrake. I still have the 360, it’s bolted to the 318 from the other. I think the larger MHs, etc would have had the brake on them. Makes sense, they probably didn’t want to rely on so much cable/etc on the long MHs.
I am using a yoke brake from this company on my 9". https://www.tsmmfg.net/pinion-brake-parking-brakes.html They advertise mainly for Ford rearends but they may be adaptable and you change nothing else. This is the only picture I have and the install is not quite complete.
The reason you can get them for Ford rears, but not other rears, is that the Ford rear has a bolt on pinion bearing support, so there's a convenient place to bolt the caliper bracket to. Other rear ends don't have this feature.
I have the rotor and caliper for one of those mechanical driveline brake kits for 9" Fords. As you said, no brackets are available to install on others. I have one removed from a Ford . I'm going to see if it can be adapted to my '56 Dodge PU rear end. I think the disk can be adapted to the Mopar u-joint yoke. It's currently bolted to a yoke and it appears to have the same bolt pattern as my Mopar. The mount to the diff will be an issue. Wish I felt safe welding on the center section casting, that would make it easier. It really shouldn't take a lot of bead (heat) to get a couple of bolt pads on there.
Welding on the casting is something I wouldn't do. When it comes to adapting stuff like this I have a saying, "I'll figure a way, I'll spider web it if I have too." Good luck!
Guess I'm just a tightwad when it comes to spending $$. To replace my 10" mopar drums there is only 1 vendor @$400 a piece. My only other option is searching for used drums in usable condition. I feel blessed my truck had 4 new drums installed before it was parked. If even 1 drum was bad I would swap a Ford 8.8 into it. If a seal goes bad, if it whines .... I would swap the rear end before putting any $$ into it. @tack has a Desoto ... possible or probable it has the harder to find larger 11" drums? Too late for a 100 point restoration, I would swap that rear end in a heartbeat. Jeep Cherokee is also a good source, I've heard of others sometimes use same spring perch. I Dunno. Just be sure to grab all the factory E-brake cables & mounts from the donor vehicle with the rear end.
A friend of mine fabricated this emergency brake disc and caliper onto my Rockwell 1-ton '60 Ford F-350 rear end. It's not rocket science, just basic drilling, grinding, cutting, etc. I'm satisfied with it.
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