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Projects Bonneville XF/GMR Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by cornfieldcustoms, Sep 14, 2021.

  1. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    Been sanding and buffing on the nose, front half of the hood and sides in prep for the scallop lay out. Also got the rear end assembled and back in the chassis. 302F5F05-99AD-4FC0-83FF-4D4599C14116.jpeg F0F4DB15-ACCC-4160-856F-E6A5E37A8F0B.jpeg 3688485F-1AD0-4C3F-B4E2-0AE9E61ECE66.jpeg 5D93DC20-F93E-4C8B-B8FE-F174C736BDEF.jpeg FD96A9AC-3A81-4C02-886E-F4B12D19047D.jpeg 836999A6-CC1C-4E22-B0B7-CDDE1F18E903.jpeg 6C05577D-2A95-4F4C-98C7-0FF3C3CEB965.jpeg
     
  2. Shiny!
     
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  3. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    Making some headway. SFI seat insert poured, adjustable chute pack mount going together, tires mounted and balanced, all body panels off at paint, helmet resistant panels made and powder coated ready to head to ISP for foam and wrapping, plus a bunch of other little stuff.
    This will be one of the last posts with pics on the car until it is unveiled in it’s completed form at GNRS in Feb. 8BEADEC2-E81E-49CC-9D64-AB3A3B748A7E.jpeg FC95CF03-9A68-46AF-9EE9-A1A4AFDA4215.jpeg 688EE07E-8274-4AA3-A54F-D741E048A40F.jpeg DB8080B0-62DC-474B-883E-77E5E70472D4.jpeg 8A5F4507-4184-42F7-B06A-765A8550F00E.jpeg F7E945FF-84FE-4F93-9775-5E8B1D570CC5.jpeg
     
  4. 51504bat
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,755

    51504bat
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Haven't been to the GRS in a while but looks like I need to go this year for sure. Excellent work.
     
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  5. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,802

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Nice to see the rear wheel lug plates with reversed 1” lug nuts. I’ve been using them for years. Some ask about them and never knew they were required on 18” milk truck rims. No matter the rim I use, 15 thru 18” and 29 thru 32” tires, I have them on.
     
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  6. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 19,144

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Wow!!!
    Not enough words to come up with to voice how I feel about this build.
     
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  7. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    yea i made the plates for the wheels as well as machined and pressed in 1/4 wall steel drive lug spacers. Also made some lug nut retainer clips that will go on when the wheels go on for the final time. I dont want any worry with the rear wheels.

    thanks
     
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  8. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,324

    rod1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    X2
     
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  9. Can't wait to see the final
     
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  10. Hemi Joel
    Joined: May 4, 2007
    Posts: 1,528

    Hemi Joel
    Member
    from Minnesota

    The whole execution is amazing.

    How do you do that poured seat?
     
    Stogy likes this.
  11. Like this:

     
  12. Molded seat is a great idea.I have had plans for one since the beginning. Keeps the driver in place better than 90% of the salt cars running.
     
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  13. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    I was worried about my back and fitting in the seat right since i had to cut it apart and reshape it for the car. The poured seat seemed to be the best route. Only bad thing is i have a few drivers so i have a few more seat inserts to do lol
     
  14. First world problems!
     
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  15. SilverJimmy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 524

    SilverJimmy
    Member

    Would it be possible to see a bit more detail on your wheel plates when you get a chance. If after the GNRS that’s soon enough! Your car is turning out as one of the best! It should win America’s Most Beautiful Roadster!
    Thanks again.
     
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  16. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    What information would you like?
     
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  17. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,345

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great stuff Mike...so this seat will transfer to the liner your building as would the others seat liners?...that would be a nice bonus as well...

    Jaw droppingly impressive work as always...Happy New Year...and what a BIG year it's going to be for you and Team Cornfield...
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2023
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  18. SilverJimmy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 524

    SilverJimmy
    Member

    I’d like to see both sides of the plate. I’m not clear on how the wheel is located on the wheel studs when you use a plate and then have the wheel lug nuts flat side down. I know how hub-centric wheels work, and I know how wheels with tapered lugs work. This I do not know….
    Thanks again. Where do I cast my vote for “America’s Most Beautiful Roadster”?!
     
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  19. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    unfortunately it wont transfer to the liner since the seat itself is shaped different. so i will have to pour another insert for that car as well.

    the support plates are flat on both sides. the wheel is set up lug stud centric. I machined and pressed in sleeves into the wheel to act as drive pins/studs like on drag cars. the plate is there just to support the center of the rim itself and spread the load of the lug nuts evenly
     
  20. SCTA Tech requires the plates to reinforce the center of alloy wheels. At some point, in a spin, somebody had an aluminum wheel fail and fold sideways by breaking thru the lug area. The rule predates my time on the salt. Maybe @jimmy six or @Stan Back know the when and why of this rule coming into effect?
     
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  21. SilverJimmy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 524

    SilverJimmy
    Member

    Got it, I think I understand how that works. I’ll have to pay attention better next time I’m in tech at either ElMo or Bonneville. Now about that Belly Tank sitting under your streamliner……..
     
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  22. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,724

    n847
    Member

    Having seen this car in person I can say Mike's pictures still don't do it justice. It's a work of art. I still think its funny that this the "basic much more simple" car...
     
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  23. Bearing Burner
    Joined: Mar 2, 2009
    Posts: 1,107

    Bearing Burner
    Member
    from W. MA

    I had to have plates made when I raced my tank in '72. Even with steel wheels. Had to have them magnafluxed also. Was running stock Ford 15" wheels.
     
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  24. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,802

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is how I understand the the wheel plate rules in the past and their use.

    When guys went to used Indy 18” tires most all went to the steel Divco “milk truck” rather than magnesium because of availability and cost. The 1/2” 13/16” lug nuts were on the ragged edge of being adequate with a 30-32” tire going 200 mph plus and getting out of control and pulling the nuts thru the worn rims. This did happen more than once.The ez fix was a 1/4” thick plate with another set of 13/16” lug nut on backwards over the original lug nuts. This can be still used today.

    There were guys who DID have the magnesium wheels. Guys had the blank wheels drilled for the exact wheel pattern, usually 5 on 5-1/2”, and each hole was just clearances for the 1/2” shank of the wheel lug. These also were required the have a 1/4” thick washer between the wheel and the nut so most made a single plate and put the lug nuts on backwards. This I’m positive of because I helped a team run a roadster in 74-on and this was requirement. The real mag wheel were have a zyglo stamp every year.

    This next one is from my personal use. I run a set of 15” Kelsey Hays aluminum rear wheels on my roadster. The lug nuts do not have direct contact with the wheel like our modern today wheels have. They require a washer and I use 1/4” thick. The wheel shank hole is larger than the 60’s style aluminum wheels are the same as the wheels offered for a 3/4 ton truck. The available lug has a 7/8” head which did not meet the SCTA requirement of 1” over 200 mph. To meet this requirement I cut off the ends of the available lugs (as required) added a 1/4” plate and 1” lugs on backwards meeting the SCTA rule. I continued to use them my 2 sets of 18” wheels, one set is steel and the other is forged aluminum.

    The SCTA rule book has always stated the rules list are the minimum requirement needed but you can always do more. My fires system on the driver have ALWAYS been double the requirement. I did not like seeing a land speed car loose a wheel/tire in a spin and I have. Having something spinning and staying flat is fine but if a tire is gone and part dig in is a catastrophe.
     
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  25. cornfieldcustoms
    Joined: Feb 2, 2008
    Posts: 1,047

    cornfieldcustoms
    Member

    0F3812B3-03B5-411A-9075-4A22933C1617.jpeg 450893B8-A491-43C3-8BF4-7EBD292146AC.jpeg 876D165F-1F07-498F-89F6-66A6A574C70F.jpeg 8321DD3F-354A-4B94-820E-6CCC11D3BB1F.jpeg 5EEF05CE-DF0D-49EF-A179-AC25B7D41430.jpeg 484FE0CB-5CF5-48BE-9437-7BE6E038F6FB.jpeg 3DF57524-E16A-41C6-969D-C83DA27D892A.jpeg CFDC78B0-729A-478A-9DC0-6C19BE09FC09.jpeg
     

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  26. Beautiful.
     
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  27. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 12,594

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Incredible car very well done.
     
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  28. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 5,367

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Reddy Kilowatt LOL

    [​IMG]
     
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  29. scoob_daddy
    Joined: Jan 1, 2022
    Posts: 136

    scoob_daddy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Georgia

    Lookin' good Mike.
     
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  30. hrm2k
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 4,840

    hrm2k
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Turned out beautiful. Almost too pretty to race
     
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