Technical ***December 2022 Banger Meet Thread - Sit Santa - Long list ***

Kevin- that was my 1st thought as well!!

 

Checking in for the month gettin things done .Got the throw out bearing carrier made and clutch pedal sorted out.
Hoping engines in for the last time

 

Checking in, got my Thomas valve cover, decided to paint the header also while I had things apart. Just got my new timing cover from Retson, so that will be getting installed soon and ditching the oil filter. Also reversed the front spring eyes for 1.25" drop.




And here is the front end pics...
Still love pulling the front wheels off and seeing these brakes...





The Modified Pipe bender used from springs now


Completed rake. Good enough till its drop axle time.

 

Looking good man! You planning on polishing it or keeping it cast?

 

Ill probably give it the black treatment with cast fins cleaned off to match the valve cover.

 

Why are you ditching the oil filter?

 

Pretty curious about that myself.

 

I went to pick up a “rebuilt” A engine yesterday.
Turns out it’s a B. I bought it anyway.
The guy I bought from said it had new babbitt and had under 1000 miles on it.
We’ll see. He had a video of it running before he pulled it.

V8 pressure plate and lightened flywheel, so maybe this thing has had some work.

 

Future plan may include the dan oil pump mod with filter for full flow but for now this thing is more of a hinderance than a positive.

 

braved the -4 (Celsius) temps and took mine out for its final blast of the year.
definitely in need of a thermostat in this weather

 

Are those 31 drums? If so are they original or aftermarket. They definitely look sweet.

 

Finally checking in for December. Need 3 fine days to get the Ute out of winter cover and can then have some fun. Some bolt on goodies been sitting since last Santa visit.

 

My buddy Gary got the outside trimmed down on the lathe, and we were going to drill the pattern for this diaphragm pressure plate yesterday. But his CNC mill had a sensor thing konk out so it will be a while to fix it.

 

So, it has .40 pistons 5/1000th above deck.
Any opinion on that one way or another for a B motor?
I plan on running a Brierly head which has pistons cut what looks like 10/1000ths.
Probably use a copper gasket.
I’m assuming this current head is a Snyders 6:1 based on a quick google search.
oh, and I don’t know the difference between A/B cams, but looks like this can run a mechanical pump. Any reason not to do that?

 

Thanks, no they are 32 Front Brakes, Bigger diameter and vented cast iron drum. Huge upgrade from stock stuff.

 

No real reason not to run one if you need one other than the pumps being a bit hard to get and not cheap etc. Looks like a good runner for sure.

My vote is 6:1 for sure, and while your in there the cam upgrade to a stipe etc would be nice, you can measure the lift at the valve and get a good idea if its already got some performance cam in it. My 340 stipe pulls mid range insane.

Alot of guys run the modern style graphite instead of copper for the higher compression ratios. I wouldnt worry about the pistons being out of the hole that little since you have alot of head gasket to take that out when torqued.

 

.3910-.36-.36-.40–.41-.3595-.3695-.3895
Measuring top of valve to deck.
Any thoughts on that?
Differences could be from me trying to keep high as possible turning the flywheel.
Has me thinking though.

 

Valve clearance and if the valves have been resurfaced resulting in different distances from top of valve to deck when seated (initial height), could account for the difference. I have found that using a .0005 or .0001 dial indicator and setting the cam on v-blocks is the most accurate although hard to find a .0001 dial indicator with .4" or more of travel.

 

Measurement discrepancies aside, anyone know if those measurements sound like a stock cam? Or is it more the profile that is different on stock vs “performance”?

 

Definitely not stock B, I would say fairly radical, I have seen .350 with .012-.014 clearance as hotter street cam. .380 -.410 lift with same clearance in normally competition only. Depending on your clearance it appears any where's from hot street to competition.

 

Does anyone know anything about the "improved cragar" the crossflow head produced by Bell Auto Parts starting after 1935? Mainly looking for original literature and stuff. I need to figure out the spark plugs it needs....they are odd.

 

Hmmm, it sounds like the valves have been ground and the seats cut but not anything to worry about.
I would think you can get a better understanding on the cam by measuring the valve protrusion ht and subtracting from the max height. Lash clearance aside, that is the cams lift. The lifters in that motor are adjustable (pics from earlier this week). You can also shim the lash to zero and then measure lift of cam.
As Bob mentions, competition cams can get up to about .450 lift in flathead config and .550-.575 in OHV designs.
Some of the Winfield cams were higher lift on the exhaust than the intakes, mainly for "F" head designs.

Just for the hell of it, I would open the pan and check the bearings/babbit

J

 

Rotoshim asked to borrow my Tourer last month as they're looking in to making some fancy shock arms and needed a vehicle to measure and make mock ups. As the poor thing was languishing outside I was happy to loan her out. It's still stealing space in the corner of their warm and dry workshop...



Whilst I was there last week having a torque tube shortened for my '24T roadster, I saw a sneak preview of the oil pump they've been working on. Longer gears for more volume that they cut on their own gear shaper and running on needle roller bearings. It has a built in pressure relief valve that can be preset to whatever you fancy. It also has a manifold plate for an additional outlet if you need to feed the centre main. All fits in the stock position. Tis a thing of beauty. It'll have a filter guaze for catching the sump rocks just like the real thing. I'm hoping to try one out in the coming months.

 

Well it aint pretty, or clean, or really anything but I finally got my first Model B!

With that being said, it's STUCK.

What do fluids do you guys use to unstuck stuff? I'm thinking MMO and ATF to start.

 

Better find out what is stuck
Pull head and pan
Diesel fuel works very well to soak the block

j

 

john , got pontoons for your car ??

 

Steve HA!
Funny you mention that
I am making a new gear cover with a propeller output shaft for the qc
I’ll post pic’s soon of the new qc for the coop
Just have to finish welding up the tubes

J

 

anxious to see it !!!

 

A little update on my first Model B engine..

Pulling the head was remarkably easy. After inspecting the deck and the water jackets, I found no cracks! I have still yet to check the valve chambers and valve ports.

I took a peek through the oil fill hole and found it's an early non-counterweighted crank. The cylinder walls were rust free and found no rust on the top of the pistons. Just a little "sludge", I found the same in the valve gallery.

I started degreasing everything and dumped some MMO and ATF in the cylinders.

Now the waiting game begins!!

 

hoping santa gets my wish list for a rebuilt engine w/ hc head touring cam etc...
but ill probly get the usual..a lump of coal and rotten banana
Merry Christmas