Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Any audiophiles on here? Car stereo install

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Roothawg, Nov 30, 2022.

  1. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,605

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Actually, not a whole lot about it has changed. The methods of storing and playing the music has progressed from records to tapes to digital... whatever... the music is still generated, amplified and sent to the speakers.

    Of course, there are certain parameters to be aware of when putting a system together, as there have always been.

    But this one feature of a sound system is something that I've rarely seen addressed.

    The size of the speaker box.

    I think almost all of them are too small. And especially when installing speakers in a vehicle, it's difficult to find enough room to fit speakers with large enclosures.

    But remember when we used to simply mount a couple of coaxial speakers in the package tray? And if you had enough amplification to drive them, they sounded AWESOME!
    You know why that was?
    Because the trunk was acting as the speaker box. And especially if you had a nice big trunk, it really really improved the sound. The highs and the lows. Quite impressive.

    So I believe it's less than ideal to mount any kind of speaker with limited space behind it such as in a door or a kick panel. And even mounting subwoofers in an enclosure is probably less effective than utilizing the trunk in the manner that I'm saying. If you have one.
     
  2. 210superair
    Joined: Jun 23, 2020
    Posts: 1,952

    210superair
    Member
    from Michigan

    I don't have a huge system In my old Ford, but I do in my Nautique, and my home system and vinyl setup is top notch. I must disagree with Mark here. This is sound, the better it sounds, if you're an audio guy, the better off you are. I don't wanna hear scratchy crappy music and be like 'yeahhhhh man, the fifties RULED'. I want my music to sound as good as it can. It's not like sacrificing the other things we do to drive an old car. You can add a really good system and have it totally hidden. You can remove it and nobody will know it was there.

    In my old ride I only have a retrosound bt head unit, nice Rockford 6x9s in back, and nice 5 1/4s up front. It sounds fine, but I have considered adding an enclosed sub under the seat, and there's plenty of room to do so and not see it.

    My boat? If I crank that sucker up you can hear it across the lake. And if I really wanna get nutty at home, I have a huge band PA I can run my stuff thru..... Lol. 4 jbl 18 inch subs, four tops each with 2/12s and folded horn tweets. All crown amps and a yamaha 32 channel board.

    Neighbors love that.... It literally rattles the dishes in their cupboards two houses down...

    The reason nobody gets into like they did in the 90s is modern cars come with some pretty good stock systems nowadays. My ot sports car sounds amazing just as it is.
     
  3. How noise deadening is your ride? Wind noise? Pipes that are too loud?

    How perfect does the sound system need to be to overcome a noisy interior?
     
  4. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,707

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I’ve about forgotten everything I knew about installing sound systems. Back in the 80’s I did several, but you could find aftermarket stuff everywhere. Even an old Kraco or Audiovox could be made to sound good with proper speakers and an amp. My radio in my pickup went out, I’ve been looking for a stock replacement, about to give up and go with an 80’s or 90’s aftermarket that I can actually work. I don’t need all the Bluetooth and iPod stuff, I only listen to a few FM stations every once in awhile. Don’t do CD’s or tapes, either. Finding a simple radio has become difficult, I have had to look toward the older stuff, but some of the prices on them are more than the cheap FM only receivers!

    I stuck a NOS AM/FM cassette in the Lincoln. Only problem is that the volume is too low to hear going down the road. I’m going to try an old amp I have on it to see if that helps. If it doesn’t, I’ll have to try and find another, not an easy task.
     
  5. Chavezk21
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 767

    Chavezk21
    Member

    I just upgraded my ot diesel DD. went with polk audio 6 1/2s, and 6 x 9's. They are marine rated. Got the 4 speakers for under 300.00. I bought an older sony deck that puts out 100w per channel x 4. no need for an amp. bought the required gear so that the vehicle recognizes it as factory. Sounds flat amazing, Gets plenty loud and was done for under 700.00
     
    210superair and Roothawg like this.
  6. cretin
    Joined: Oct 10, 2006
    Posts: 3,066

    cretin
    Member

    I know absolutely nothing about car audio, but am working on a system for the F100 I'm working on right now.
    I am doing a bit of a unique setup and couldn't find some info about what I was trying to do.
    I ended up chatting with one of the guys on the Crutchfield website, and he was the only person I talked to that didn't try to talk me out of doing what I wanted to do, and just helped me do what I needed to do to make it work. Seemed really knowledgeable to me, but again, I know nothing.
     
    ffr1222k, rod1, Algoma56 and 2 others like this.
  7. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,348

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    For the last 45 thousand miles. I have been driving with the windows down and the hearing aids turned off. Guess I need to replace my 8-track player.
     
  8. 327Eric
    Joined: May 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,116

    327Eric
    Member

    I like the Bluetooth route for modern music in my car. I am working on fixing my original tube radio in my 59 to play the local oldies station. Yeah, it's crackly old sound, but it's part of the experience.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  9. There’s calculations you to find out the area needed for a speaker box, but that really only helps bass. The 6x9s in the package tray sound great because they have amplified bass in the mix, instead of just all mid and high. I’m no pro by any stretch, but I’ve screwed with many low end crappy systems from swap meets to store bought, with boxes and amps to without. The closer to max amps for your speakers you can get the better (they suggest getting an amp that is twice the continuous max rating of the speaker.

    https://www.audioreputation.com/speaker-wattage-vs-amp-wattage/
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2022
    Roothawg likes this.
  10. FishFry
    Joined: Oct 27, 2022
    Posts: 293

    FishFry
    Member

    Most of this discussions are all about achievable volume.
    IMHO there are other points.

    1 - Source. If you want to listen to CDs it's a different setup, than for music from your phone, USB-Stick or AM radio. Do you have/want multiple different sources?

    2 - Looks. Do you want to keep the original radio face and knobs working, or don't you mind a glaring blue LED monitor in the middle of your pre-war ride? Do you mind to fiddle with your phone/ipod to adjust volume while driving, or do you want a physical knob on your dash? Do you want to keep the original speaker location, or don't you mind a huge sub box somewhere in the back of your panel truck? Visible/invisible concept? etc.

    Personally I don't care about volume, as long as I can hear the music over my engine/exhaust I'm good.

    Since there is nothing on AM/FM radio for my taste, and I have no appetite to deal with the clusterfuck of CDs, ipods and aux cables, my music comes from my phone. So Bluetooth it was.

    Found a tiny BT amp (class D) on Ebay for 15 bucks. It has only one knob that is on/off and volume. It is so small (smaller than a pack of cigarettes), that I can use the hole of the original volume knob of my 41, just bolt it behind that and call it a day. Even the original volume knob fits.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I had 2 car speakers from the 80s laying around - one went into the original location (middle of the dash), the other one in the package tray in the back. Found a nice vintage grill for it.

    A cheap chinesium 15 bucks amp is probably a hair rising idea for audiophiles, but actually it sounds really good in my book. Since I don't have to move my neighbor's dishes around, it's loud enough for my needs, and the music I hear is mostly form old shellac/vinyl records, so there is not much quality to begin with.

    For normal driving, I need to turn the volume only up to like 30-40% - after that I can't have a conversation in the car anymore, without screaming at each other.

    So far I'm a happy camper, since this was one of the easiest things I ever installed in my car, and it worked just beautiful right out of the box.

    I think it's about 50ish watt, and yeah - I didn't even bother to check the Ohms for the speakers. I just tried them and they sounded good enough for me.

    I understand that other folks have other wishes/needs and want something that is louder.
    But form me, this is perfect in any regard.

    Frank
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2022
  11. FishFry
    Joined: Oct 27, 2022
    Posts: 293

    FishFry
    Member

    Have you looked at the repops that Antique Automobile Radio offers?
    They are really nice (pricey though), but if you search around a bit, you can save up to 100 bucks, depending where you buy them.
    https://www.radiosforoldcars.com/

    [​IMG]
     
    Sancho and Roothawg like this.
  12. PhilA
    Joined: Sep 6, 2018
    Posts: 2,061

    PhilA
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Hydro Tech

    Ehhh, modern class D amplifiers have changed that a lot, particularly for mid to upper price car audio.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  13. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    Yeah, I bought one. I just don't wanna buy a bunch of crap that's not compatible. It takes me so long to do stuff, by the time I figure out it won't jive, it's been 7 years and I can't send it back. :cool:
     
    Joe Blow likes this.
  14. Toms Dogs
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 359

    Toms Dogs
    Member
    from NJ

    I installed a stereo AM-FM cassette tape player 30 years ago, hidden underneath of the dash of my '48 Ford p.u. truck. Can't recall the name of it, or the speakers hidden and mounted behind the seat. This past year, I up-graded (for on-the-cheap/ craigslist) replacing the cassette to a Sony Xplod AM-FM CD unit hidden in same location and a pair of Pyle mylar speakers (for marine use), hidden under the front the seat.
     
  15. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 9,289

    jnaki





    Hello,

    We are all audiophiles at one time or another. But, the question is what car is the question supposed to be pointing towards? A roadster or classic Chevy/Ford sedan? In any case, stereo installations from the way back time machine had all sorts of set up for power and speaker placement.

    The normal was of course, a stereo unit am/fm cassette tape with 6 inch door speakers for the fast installation and good sound. Then as the age of CDs came into play, the head unit got replaced. Most factory units were not the highest quality so, the proliferation of those higher end powerful units became popular. But, there is a limit as to how your want your hot rod to look and perform. So, what is it, a small roadster, Model A coupe or a larger 50s-60 sedan?

    Jnaki

    These days, unless you want to spend hours inside upside down for the installation that we all used to do in our own cars, there are alternatives mentioned in previous posts. The newest and easiest is to keep the stock radio where it is and if you are handy, rework it with the latest bluetooth amp or components.

    If you want an easier set up with the same amount of power and clarity of sounds, you have to go digital and set up mp3 quality recordings on your phone or mp3 player. If you want to share the same amount of music at home, then there are digital ways to do both. Laptops hold a ton of your own music. Then a simple device like an Ipod Touch can hold more music that you can listen to on a cross country road trip and then some…

    Then without doing anything to the dash or stock set up, you have choices of your phone, which can hold plenty of digital sounds and be useful for emergency phone calls, etc. But, the nice thing is a wireless bluetooth speaker that can be set down anywhere there is space. Brands like Bose or JBL are great products, sized to fit your space.

    Under the seats, under the dash or behind the seat of an El Camino without getting in anyone’s way. Or spending hours cutting holes in metal panels for bolt in speakers like the old days.

    upload_2022-12-1_4-50-36.png
    Simplicity is the answer. The sounds for the back of our 327 powered sedan delivery had two big 6x9 speakers to deliver huge amounts of music. These days, a small Ipod Touch and a wireless bluetooth speaker has the similar sounds with the latest technology. It is easier and more efficient than those old ways of head unit, power amp, miles of wires and installation of speakers in doors, panels or rear package trays of the old cars. YRMV

    The great thing is, the mp3 player/phone is not relegated to just your hot rod. If you travel, the latest cars can have RCA plugs or Bluetooth systems built in and now you have your digital library anywhere you go. Or, if you sell your car or project your music stays with you. We have had several Apple Ipods full of every section of our old/new choices.

    But, for those antique hunters, the first generation Ipods did not have bluetooth. So, check out the series 7 or later models. Unless you use them for baseballs, the older ones last a long time with a ton of quality music pumping into your ears or car.


    What about the Ipods vs something like Spotify or Sirius? Have you ever seen the god awful list of crappy stuff on the music play list that your have to scroll through to get to something you like? Your phone or Ipod is a specialty place for just your own music and no other stuff.
     
  16. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,244

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is of interest to me too. Bought Mrs Highlander a daily long ago that had a Monsoon system option. Got hooked. Been gathering for a while and the age of it might be apparent by the names. Crossfire 300X2, 2 10" Pyle subs, 4 Legacy speakers, 2 4" and 2 5", and accompanying little baby tweets. This is all going in my 39 Ford and I'll detail the install when I get there, but the subs will be in ported boxes so I can cover the faces with Ford wide 5 hubcaps. I have crossovers too but forget what they are (DEI I think?). Yes, some of this shit is 30 years old. All the hidden areas will have Dynamat on the sheetmetal (cowl and quarter panels, trunk sides), all the trim screws will get a bit of strip caulk for seal and to solidify installation, the baby tweets will get hidden behind the OG speaker grille in the dash, 4 speakers will be kick panels and lower quarters. Wiring seems simple enough but like the OP I get a little squirrelly cuz I don't want to fuck it up. In the end I want the best sound, sometimes crystal clarity for my Rat Pack faves, and yet I want to blast the best of the best hip hop too, mainly because some of closest pals hate that shit :cool: but the fact is I actually dig a lot of it. The secret will be no vibrations in an old car because that just sucks. And where appropriate I'll lay thin cloth electric tape like the dash mounts and such. Rattles will screw up the sounds.

    I don't want to overthink it, but also don't want to let the smoke out. The trunk will be vented into the cabin thru the parcel tray to let the bass in. My sub boxes may not be ultimate engineering but the wide 5 hubcaps for covers are not negotiable. I've revisited this part of the project recently as I've been busy with the tool box/trunk/tail panel lately. Just made my kick panels too. Timely topic for me as well.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  17. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,843

    2935ford
    Member

    Whatever you do.....try to make it simple!
    My unit is just too damn complicated. Small buttons that if you hit the wrong one things go terribly afoul, so I just set it to one station and that's that!
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  18. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 14,809

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Roothawg likes this.
  19. Moriarity
    Joined: Apr 11, 2001
    Posts: 30,755

    Moriarity
    SUPER MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    radios are for geeks... listen to your pipes man.....
     
  20. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,707

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    Sorry for the confusion, the factory radio I need to replace is in my 99 F 150. The one in the 47 Lincoln is all hidden stuff.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  21. Ned Ludd
    Joined: May 15, 2009
    Posts: 5,025

    Ned Ludd
    Member

    I hadn't really thought about it but I've just realised that I haven't had a sound system in a car for over 25 years. I think I've just for too long had cars that at some time demand all my hearing attention just to keep running!
     
  22. Gasser_Dave
    Joined: Aug 18, 2013
    Posts: 154

    Gasser_Dave
    Member
    from St. Louis

    I have been installing stereos professionally since the mid 80's and can tell you if you are shy about doing it yourself, there are a bunch of high end shops to help you out. No, not the Best Buy's of the world.
    Sub box dimensions are easy to figure out- most 10 inch subs like about 1 cubic foot of airspace. 12 inchers like 1.5 to 2 feet of airspace. Remember to add a little bit to fill in for the basket of the sub as it takes up room. Most subs nowadays are made to be forgiving in any kind of box. Want it to boom? Put a vent in it. Nice and tight but will boom when needed? Seal that bitch up. box dimension to find airspace is WxLxH. 1728 inches equals one cubic foot. just add or subtract inches when trying to get the ideal airspace. remember if there is a triangle involved- 1/2 base xHxL

    most car speakers are going to be 4 ohms. some subs will be 2, 3 or 4 ohms but can have more than 1 voice coil. Bridging an amp means taking the left positive and the right negative and basically doubling the watts out. However, if you have a 2 ohm voice coil on your sub, that will drive the ohms down to 1 on the amp and you can let the magic smoke out of the amp. you can series the subs but doing so on 2 4 ohm subs will be 8 ohms and only let the amp run at 50%.

    On my 51 chevy gasser, I will have two 6x9 speakers in the rear, one 10 inch sub all being driven off a 4 channel amp. I am using a bluetooth receiver that has RCA outputs to go into the amp.
    DS18 BT-TWO- Marine Car Boat Bike Bluetooth Audio Receiver Converter 663593066923 | eBay

    Sorry to ramble, lots of questions to try and answer. If you have specific questions, let me know and I can try to help.
     
    VANDENPLAS, Tman and Roothawg like this.
  23. One of the first things I did to a car myself besides change the oil was install a thumping system to play my 90’s rap collection.

    I was pretty green in 1997 and I got it handled so it’s not too hard. I bought a used pullout deck and a used Orion 400w Amp with 2 12s in an mdf box. I went straight into the factory front speakers from the deck and the amp only powered the rear.

    I gotta think a good 6x9 in the cab corners and small speakers in the dash with maybe a couple tweeters around the sun visors would be more than enough for the truck.
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  24. Gasser_Dave
    Joined: Aug 18, 2013
    Posts: 154

    Gasser_Dave
    Member
    from St. Louis

    Remember tweeters are directional so they need to be pointed at the passengers. I would put them around the a pillars toward the bottom.
     
  25. 210superair
    Joined: Jun 23, 2020
    Posts: 1,952

    210superair
    Member
    from Michigan

    My statement you quoted was for a PA system built to entertain 3-4000 people, so.... I've only hooked it up at my house once for the band to play. It is currently stored in the ol barn, next to the shoebox actually! Lol.

    My shoebox radio is no amps or anything, and for the fella who asked about loud interiors, mine isn't quiet. I always have all windows down all the way, or open on the ones that don't roll down, and lake pipes on the sides are always open. My retrosound head and 4 speakers sounds plenty loud to hang....

    Edit: oh yeah, and for the guys who say "old crappy sound is part of the experience", I actually absolutely agree, and I have plenty of 50s radio shows dow loaded onto my phone I am out on. Some even have the static included. Even have a few 50s MLB games I listen to sometimes. (If anyone wants to make a wager on the outcome of those games, I'm in, but you gotta let me pick first...)
     
    Tman and Roothawg like this.
  26. Well, so far I haven't seen much audiophile content. An audiophile is someone who's chasing the very best in sound quality, although budget restraints definitely enter into it. So while I don't have a $50K+ system home system, I have managed to dump five figures into my system to get where I am. I'm not going into detail, but it features 1800 watts... and these are 'clean' watts (> .25% THD), not the typical ratings used in car audio where 5% (or more) distortion is allowed.

    While there is plenty of snake oil in the home audio industry, the car audio folks make them look like pikers. Check specs carefully if you're serious about sound quality.

    First thing I'll say is if you're using any sort of compressed files like MP3s, you have rather poor-quality source material. These are roughly equal to a cassette tape recorded on a mid-price deck, just minus the tape hiss. A 700MB CD-R holds 80 minutes of uncompressed audio, do the math on how many compressed minutes can be stored on the same disc and you'll find a hell of a lot of data is missing. Sure, they use algorithms to 'fill in the gaps' but loss of dynamic range and 'detail' is very real. Some material can sound pretty 'muddy' IMO. I will admit it takes a critical ear to hear the differences sometimes, and many of us older guys with damaged hearing may not be able to hear it at all.

    What kind of material do you listen to? Rock and Country acts using amplified instruments demand amp power, but detail required can vary widely. Mid-late '60s and earlier, the original recordings weren't that great to start with, so playback accuracy is less critical. Acoustic, orchestras, vocal or small ensemble recordings, it gets more important. Newer recordings (say the '70s up), the studio engineers got a lot smarter with better equipment, so playback demands got stiffer the newer it gets.

    Be realistic about the volume level you listen at. If you like to listen at 'Gee officer, I didn't hear your siren' levels, plenty of amp power and biggest diameter speakers you can fit will give the best results. And be aware that recommended/maximum power numbers for speakers doesn't always reflect either quality or accuracy but has more to do with how efficient it is. Low profile speakers are particularly inefficient. Bigger is better, but you can get good sound with smaller ones with careful choices. As far as subwoofers, bigger is definitely better. You're trying to move air, a small cone will struggle. An 8" sub has only 50 sq inches of cone, a 15" comes in at 176. Two 8" and your still at only about 57% cone area of a 15".

    How much power do you need? Tough question to answer, but if you like loud consider the max power handling of the speaker as the minimum. Speaker crossovers and tweeters in particular don't like it when the amp clips (runs out of power) as the square wave it produces can kill those. In most cases having the extra amp power for instantaneous peaks is good, but it is a double-edged sword. You can cook the voice coils with extended dipping into the extra power. To be honest, I've rarely found it necessary to amp the basic speakers, most modern head units will output 25 watts which will play plenty loud with a good speaker install and reasonably efficient speakers. Subs are another story, those will always need their own amp.

    Lastly, speaker enclosures. Rickybop hit the high points, although I will disagree about using the doors. Speakers, any speaker needs some sort of enclosure with at least a minimum volume. Those kick-panel speakers that mount to a flat surface with just enough room behind them for the speaker are terrible. Some cars are going to be all-but-impossible to install speakers properly in. Anything older than the fat-fender '40s you'll have extremely limited choices. The '40s really only have two places you can mount; the kick panels and package tray. I've been looking at my avatar, my plan when I get around to it is to hide the enclosure under the front fender, with a suitable 'splash guard' so I don't hear everything that may fly against it. How big does the enclosure need to be? There are calculations for this, but I'll give a quick example. When Ford first started installing stereo radios and 8-tracks into the Mustangs/Fairlanes they used a 4" ID by 5" long plastic tube cut into the metal kick panel structure. That was enough to allow the 4.25" speaker used to produce a pretty decent full-range sound. This has a volume of about 60 cubic inches, a larger speaker will need more. Shape isn't critical, although as much depth as you can get directly behind the speaker will help.

    '50s era and newer, the doors are a great location. Most any car will have enough room, location may be decided by whatever you need to dodge inside the door. While technically not a sealed enclosure, it's sealed enough. You'll be hard-pressed to find a modern car that doesn't have door speakers. This is the only really practical place if you have a pickup. Forward and high is best, you ain't hidin' these. Personally, I'd stick with a two-way; a 5 or 6" is a mid-range anywhere but in car audio. And keep in mind if you can't fit the best choices for frequency response, you can correct it with a 10-band equalizer (less is too coarse) but remember that boosting the highs (16KHz and above) and lows (about 50 Hz and less) will sharply increase amplifier demand as that's where they work the hardest.

    'Hiding' speakers will compromise their performance quite a bit. It's a bit like putting your home stereo speakers in a bedroom then trying to listen to them in the living room. The speaker really needs to 'see' your ears.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2022
    Ned Ludd, Sancho and Roothawg like this.
  27. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 2,820

    lostone
    Member
    from kansas

    I had a custom built OT vehicle by Sony once, it had 2 stereos. Main stereo had 12 speakers, 2 10" woofers in the rear doors, 3 amps, a pre-amp, 4 sets of ear phone jacks and more wires than I could count.

    I would have loved to seen the schematics of just the stereo system and the Sony guy that had to install all of it.

    .
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  28. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 24,522

    Roothawg
    Member

    I am more concerned with quality vs volume. I am trying to figure out speaker and component placement. I don't mind collecting the good stuff, but I just wanna make sure it all plays well together. I would hate to hear...."Man, I wish you would of....."

    You see where I am going.
     
    Bandit Billy likes this.
  29. I am going with similar Kicker components that I used in the 90s in my GMC. The tweeters I mentioned before, some mids and a kicker box behind the seat. I got a decade out of the last one until it got hurt in storage.

    https://www.kicker.com/2021-comprt-loaded-enclosures

    Lavin and I listen to everything from rap to punk to bluegrass and her Dead. We need a well rounded system
     
    Roothawg likes this.
  30. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 12,286

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I am just about to get started on my system in my PU. I am not planning on a massive system but a bluetooth amp I picked up, tweeters and mids in the doors, self-powered sub under the seat with the amps. Should look cool if I can pull off what I have in my head. We will see.
     
    Roothawg likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.