Projects 27 Tudor build

Hey folks,,picking up a 1924 Tudor that im itching to tear into. Super clean unmolested body and all. Been spending the last week researching and gathering ideas.
Going back and forth on the frame I wanna use. originally wanted to use a model A style frame with the horns and axel under. But now leaning towards a 27 T frame from Speedway,,trying to find some measurements comparing the 23-25 and the 26-27. I know there are some differences, but not sure exactly what they are. Any T heads wanna shine some light on it for me? Thanks in advance for any input.

 

I’m not a T guy but it looks like a 26 or 27 to me.

 

Yeah, that's a 26-27. And those are 28-29 A front fenders. It might already be on an A frame.

 

Yep, A frame. I can see one of the holes for the Model A transmission mounts

 

Hmm weird. The guy I’m buying from is a pretty knowledgeable old hot rodder. He says it’s a 24

 

More knowledgeable than us?!

 

No it's a 26 - 27. The firewall and flare at the bottom of the A pillar where it meets the cowl confirm this, the new for 1928 Model A kept that design feature. I'm sure he has forgotten more than I currently know but he is mistaken on this one.

 

Got it. I see you what you’re talking about now. Thank you guys for the insight

 

1924 T sedan



1926/27 T sedan



I'm not a Model T guy and I see very little difference in the two bodies, I have owned a few Model A's and I believe the front fenders are 28/29. HRP

 

Firewall was a dead giveaway for me.

 

My chim-in 26-27 Better off with the Improved years, Alot less wood and more Henry steel! As far as T frames go the over all length is the same but cross members are different in how the body mounts. Your T is super cool project; A great start. If it has the A frame under it I would stick with that. I am building three 26-27 Roadsters lakester| trad, trog cars. Looking forward to following this tread!! I'm in!!

 

The owner may have said it's a '24 because that's how it's titled? So maybe verify that... sooner than later. Good luck with everything.

 

Yea it’s titled as a 24. Picked it up today. Not sure if it was a case of someone purchasing a title for a car without one or not. Not a huge deal to me what it’s titled as. But after seeing the car in person it sold me even more on it. Crazy clean. Think I’ve decided on a 27 T frame..I like the A’s with the horns, but something about that dropped axel out front that I just love. Maybe a spring over application and raised perch up front

 

Looks nice. What happened to the rest of it? Was that a LaSelle tranny on the running boards? Sure looks like it might have been a hotrod in its past, engine swap, steering, even hydraulic brakes? Please tell me you are bringing all that home too.

 

I got the body, fenders, running boards, and all the body parts. He’s using the frame and suspension on another project. I’ll prob get rid of the fenders if I find someone wanting them

 

Spent the last couple weeks gathering a few bigger parts..got the body home, found a 9 inch, and picked up a 331 Caddy to go in it. Picked the frame up last week as well. So ready to get mocking up

 

Also got a set of Ford rear radius rods. Trying to figure out the best way to mount them? Connected at the center below the driveshaft/tranny support. Or cut the ends and add tie rods and mount to under frame rails? Any suggestions?

 

Never split rear radius rods or ladder bars all the way out to the frame rails. A very poor design and will break parts. Keep the front of the bars as close together as possible, just as Henry did.

 

Agreed, there have been multiple threads that show that the closer to the centerline of the car and further forward the ladder bars go, the more stable and functional the rear suspension is. 4 Links are designed to go parallel, not radius rods and a transverse leaf.

~Peter

 

What about a torque arm? Is it needed? It’s not going to be a high hp motor. Running a spring behind the axel if that makes a difference. Thanks for the input!

 

Here's mine, it has ladder bars, but the radius rods you have work on the same principles:


As the rear end "loads up" under acceleration, the radius rods/ladder bars prevent the pinion yoke from dipping. Meanwhile, the transverse leaf prevents excessive side to side sway under cornering. You'll still get a little movement in the spring shackles, but it's minimal.

~Peter

 

Those rods are not designed to handle any kind of twisting load, their only job was to keep the rear axles square to the torque tube, which you no longer have. Before I knew this, I did the same thing you plan to do and they snapped at the welds. A mostly stock flathead was enough to break them on a 2060 pound car.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-rod-handle-sbc-open-drive-line-combo.589044/

This may help you learn a bit more

~Peter

 

Thank you! Great info on there.

 

Started channeling today.