I want to be able to check the timing on my 59A flathead and everything I read says the best way to time the motor is to use a vacuum gauge. My problem is I don't have a vacuum port anywhere on the motor. My thinking is I will remove the intake manifold and drill and tap a hole to insert a nipple that I can attach a vacuum hose to. Its a Navarro intake with two Stromberg 97's. The other possibility is to install a small spacer plate with a vacuum outlet in it between a carb and the intake manifold. Once I can attach a vacuum gauge I'll be able to adjust the timing to maximize vacuum which should be the ideal timing position. Anyone agree, disagree or have a better idea
The very worst way to "set timing" is to use a vacuum gauge to get the "best vacuum level". If you really like severely over advanced timing, then, that would be the way to attain it. Use a regular timing light, any "DIAL BACK" feature turned OFF, and the degrees scales. Dial back is not for analog ignition systems (mechanical, vacuum advances), it is to be used with electronic timing setups in computers, like EFI, ones that do not use physical mechanical/vacuum advance systems. Dial back is to re-compensate the timing computation lag times in those electronic timing systems, not for systems that do not use inputs and computation lag times to attain timing.
But I used "dial back" timing lights in the late 60's when everything had point ignition. Sun made a dial back light and Allen had them also. It allows you to dial in the proper advance and then set the timing to zero on the balancer. Also, I was taught to set timing using a vacuum gauge this way: advance the timing to maximum vacuum and then back it off until the vacuum dropped 1 inch.
I have a dial back and regular light. The dial back does not play well with some electronic system but works great on other. Works perfect on "analog" systems.
What am I missing. There aren’t any timing marks anywhere on my motor or the crank pulley. What am I pointing the timing light at
I can see it will be absolutely useless to try to help here, way too many have already been indoctrinated on how to do it dead wrong. My history, first car, my dad's, 1947 Ford Business Coupe, 3/8 x 3/8 296, ScoT blower, 2 x 2's, Edelbrock heads. And, later, for Chevrolet Skunkworks, directly under Zora Arkus-Duntov. I was an engine design & development engineer. I have the last two crates Duntov had, for his conversions to overhead valve Hemi, and ScoT blower, for Flathead, the Ar-Dun conversions, given to me by Duntov himself, brand new, and I will NEVER open the crates. Duntov lent me out to Delco-Remy for 8 months, to help get the then in development HEI control modules functional and reliable. What I do now, is what I invented decades ago, conversions to stock points distributors, to real HEI, MSD Trigger Only, and EFI-HEI. But, you guys do it as you wish, no problem in any of it. Have fun with your cars. I'll go do something else.
More like Grumpman David Ray. If Mr. Ray has done all he says he has, then maybe he could tell us in a more teaching tone the reasons why we should tune his way. Maybe Mr. Ray has forgotten that a 59A doesn't have a degree scale on the pulley. Doesn't even have a pointer like the late flatheads do.
Mr Rays posts reminds me of a recent thread where a member spoke to him about his ignition issue. He (member) mentioned who he spoke with and what the fella did. Sure seems like the same thing as Mr Ray said. I’d be inclined that the member spoke with Mr Ray again and had him join the HAMB.
I used the so called "zip tie method" to find TDC on my assembled 59A. Once I found it I made a wire pointer and filed a groove in my crank pulley. I calculated the arc lengths (see pdf attached) for the degree markings and also put on paint marks at every 90°. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/?p=10940 "Heads ON: Slide a large tie-wrap or any sort of lump on a wire through plug hole and against farthest point where it hits the wall. Have apprentice holditthere. Rotate as above… Bump, bump, divide. Repeat a couple times to be sure it is repeatable and your stop isn’t moving. Have apprentice flogged if inaccurate. Once you have TDC nailed… Go mug an eighth grader leaving his plane geometry class. Steal his protractor and compass, discard the rest. Draw a circle on a piece of cardboard matching OD of your pulley. Draw a larger circle around it from same center. Put protractor on center, draw lines at whatever interval you want – 5 degrees is adequate for estimation, can be as many degree points as you want. Mark off about 30 degrees. Cut out inner circle, hold your new device over pulley with beginning line at your TDC, mark off rest of degrees. Can be permanent file or chisel marks, or just mark a swath with liquid paper and pencil in the lines. You now have accurate TDC and permanent or easily re-doable scale for full range checking with a simple timing light. Bruce"
I had a professor in a college course who spent his entire time putting our ideas and thought process down. If we had anything we’ve learned…. It was how to convey and teach our children. Now Bruce Lancaster was a teacher.
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