Technical 32 Ford glass body and original chassis

Hi. What about the combo glass body on an original and unboxed chassis ?
Everything is stock, just a question of budget.

a) worst idea of the century
b) no problem

Guys who own a glass body, do you have cracks, waves on the surface or fiber « sucking » paint layers alter years ?

Thanks for your replies.

 

So stock driveline,　mechanical brakes, 32 motor and box?

There are plenty of quality glass manufacturers. I had a 32 5W glass car made in Australia and it was really strong. C&W make some great options. Personally now I would go with a steel A roadster body on the 32 chassis rather than a glass 32 but that`s just me. Price wise may even be cheaper.

 

I've heard worse ideas.

 

French flat, 39 trans, early 32 banjo with torque tube and mechanical brakes. Stock steering and pedal assy.

 

Really, with glass bodies it all gets down to who made it, how strongly they made it and the quality of the workmanship. They are definitely NOT all the same.

If it is a good one, no problem. (edit: good ones aren't cheap.)

 

Is there a reason you're considering glass over Brookville?

 

Since you are in Belgium, have you considered jocar.se in Sweden? They make nice steel '32 roadster and 5 window coupe body's.

 

Yes. I live in Europe. A glass body cost about 5000€
A Brookville, with shipping + import charges + etc is 15000€

 

Yes, this is also an option

 

I'd say go with it.
The only people that will criticize you are those that don't have one.

Cruise around with a glass 32 and a smile on your face, looking at all the "experts in perfectionism" standing there watching you while they don't have one.

 

I wonder how stiff a glass body should be when used on a stock frame.

My Brookville body on a stock frame used to move around quite a bit. I did have the pinch on the arm (not serious) a few times.

I have a glass roadster on a boxed frame. The body has a quite significant steel tube sub structure. The body and chassis combo seem very stiff, no movement at the doors.

I wonder what the outcome might be with the stiffened glass body on the stock frame? Will it pull the body to pieces? I suppose the acid test is to establish how Westcott or Downs bodies fare on stock frames but I imagine most would have been built as street rods, boxed frames etc.

I expect a not excessively strengthened glass body with structures adhesive bonded, instead of being glassed in, would be OK.

Chris

 

A good friend of mine did exactly this about 20 years ago or so and never had any issues that I know of. Not sure what brand body he used, but it was glass with an original unboxed chassis, flathead, T5, etc. I know he wore out two sets of Firestones on it as far as how much he drove it too.

 

This is what I was worry about.
As the chassis is more floppy than a boxed one, how will the body react ?
We don’t have plenty of glass body manufactures.

 

I'd box the frame and use 1x2 box tubing to make crossmembers. (Like TCI below)Then take the time to shim the body properly and maybe some rubber shim to absorb shock. The fiberglass body, especially a roadster will be more subject to getting hairline cracking over time. Also, you might install steel bracing inside the body.

 

You’re right

 

Thanks for the advice but the chassis and mechanic are already restored. I’ll not boxing it.

 

That is a big difference! Whatever you decide, I'm sure it will be fun!

 

El Polacko at industrial chassis makes rear legs that bolt to the stock K member and the rear fender holes that substationally stregthens the frame. Someone in Europe also makes these. Sorry I don't have contact info, but has been covered on HAMB.

 

i made some roadster molds after hs, we made canoes,
if you re-enforce use oak,
they told me it would react to temp change closer to the glass reaction and better than steel...
less apt to de-laminate later... IMO...

 

For an original unboxed frame redo32 offers a great suggestion to use k-member reinforcing legs. Industrial Chassis was the commercial innovator-supplier but there is a company in Europe that makes their version. Check in the search function for information. My original '32 Roadster sits on an unboxed frame and when parked on an angle the doors can be difficult to open and close. The riveted frame was designed to flex and it may affect a fiber glass body.

 

Fresh Reflections is the UK source for those beautifully crafted k member legs.

Chris

 

Thanks for the idea with K legs but not compatible with mechanical brakes.

 

You are going to run mechanical brakes ? So are you building a "restoration" or a hot rod? It seems kinda odd to use a fiberglass body if its a resto clone or mechanical brakes if its a hot rod.

If you talk with many roadster builders, you will find that flexure and door closing issues can be problematic.
If you don't address the problems when building, you will deal with them for the life of the car.

 

I’m building a prewar style hot rod.
Highboy, wire wheels, flathead.
I was thinking put a glass body in the first time for a question of budget.

 

Yes, it's possible ;-) !


Original frame and drivetrain, mechanical brakes, french flathead, homemade 32 heavy drop axle, original grille and bonnet, and more.. like original steel 32 tudor parts inserted to the body (cowl vent, hinges....)
Inner steel frame like wescott's ones.

 

Awesome ! Which manufacturer of the body ? Steel firewall ?

 

Don't know why not, this is a 34 Wescott FG body on an original chassis, great car.

 

With mechanical breaks I hope your life insurance is paid up.

 

Another car on the road, yes, DO IT.

 

It's a rodline body from UK bought 15 years ago. Don't know if they are still in business. Cheap at that time, but needed a lot of work to become to my standard. I learned how to work this f*****g material when I was younger.
Same motivation than you Harold: the budget and the possibility to change later to a steel one.

I even do a 1/2 scale one for my kids:



Strong inner structure:



And yes, original firewall and cowl vent with heavy body modifications

They are working great, all is rebuild and well adjust.
The equalizer on the K member give more brakes at the front when you start breaking and I even have on the rear a progressive system that nobody around me know called Freins FARK: