Hot Rods Barn or in this case, garage finds still exist!!

Been trying my hand at repairing the rust on the passenger fender. My first attempts, so learning as I go, but enjoying the process.

 

Your welding repairs look good. As long as your finished welds are flush or just slightly below flush, you'll be golden.

 

Thanks, appreciate the compliment and tip.

They will need a touch more blending, but just getting close for now, as both fenders have pretty much the same issues, so a lot more cutting & welding to do.

Once all the rust work is done, will be fine tuning the patched areas as I strip the fenders of all the old lacquer paint.

Hope to have a busy and productive summer!

 

Got the patch fully welded in and ground fairly smooth on the outside. Not a perfect blend, but based on my skill level & experience, I am happy. Next up, lower section of fender brace...

 

This is the last of the known rust on the passenger fender!! Now have to do pretty much the exact same repairs on the driver side. But now I have a little experience, so hopefully it goes a little better.

 

Started on the driver side fender. Has pretty much the same issues as the passenger side did, only a little more extensive. For the first patch, due to its size, I cut a patch out of a fender I picked-up at the swap meet and fit it in place. Treated the area with rust converter and after I strip the paint, will weld it in place.

 

One more chunk be done!!! Will have to use some fiberglass to close some pin holes that I just can't get welded without making them worse.

 

Your welding work looks very nice. I would warn against covering pinholes with fiberglass, it's a moisture trap and can make things worse. If you have some pinholes you're trying to weld closed, I find holding a piece of brass or copper on the back side when you make your tack really helps. The weld won't stick to the brass and it has less tendency to blow out with the brass backer. Even a chunk of flattened copper plumbing tubing can make a handy backer for welding up holes.

 

Thanks, am literally learning as I go! Not to worried about fiberglassing the few small pinholes as it will be covered on both sides by primer, sealer & paint. I have several different shaped copper backers and use them, but there comes a time when it is done, I could chase it till the entire front of the fender is weld metal stacked on top of its self vs sheet metal... I am pretty sure there are a lot more little rust holes in places that won't be seen until they want to be. Appreciate the compliment and tips.

 

Rust repair, just like eating an elephant, 1 bite at a time...

 

Little more work on the fender before it got too hot in the shop to finish this chunk.

 

Did you add the hole to the patch panel ahead of time intentionally, or was that just the piece you had handy? Curious why you'd do it that way. The work looks good, just wondering.

 

The area needing replaced was around the original trim mounting hole, so I added it to the patch first, then bolted it on through the original hole and the new one to maintain original spacing and alignment. Easier that trying to go back and drill after the fact and hope to keep everything in line.

 

It is hard to see in the first picture, but the arrow in this pic is pointing to the original trim hole.

 

Awesome that you're getting some good work done on your cool red '57 Chevy ht!
You must be smiling.
I would be.

 

OK I get it. Clever, seems like it worked well.

 

Knocked out a little more rust work this afternoon.

 

Thanks!

 

Cut out and replaced a section of deeply rust pitted patch, treated with rust converter last night and just needs some primer today. Moving on the next and last part of this fender, the rear lower corner & brace...

 

Driver side lower fender skin rust work started. Got run out of the shop due to the heat, but did get the patch tacked in. Finish welding and then replace the crusty brace and call that one done...

 

Finished the welding on the backside and coated to protect from future rust. Also cut & fitted the brace section and painted the backside with the same rust treating paint as the inner fender. Now letting cure overnight. Finish installing the brace section tomorrow, then blend/smooth the welds on the front side and that fender will be done for the time being.

 

Calling this fender done with rust repair, moving on to the doors next.

 

Taking a little break from metal work and am prepping the interior for painting with epoxy primer. Started on the package tray, that glue has to be of Alien origin!!

 

Spent a little time cutting the jagged extra speaker hole out to nice metal and fitting a patch. Just need to weld it in next.

 

Finished the speaker hole repair, all welded in and smoothished over.

 

Finished up the package tray for now.

 

Also got the extra sheet metal around the shifter hole out of the way so I can continue prepping the floor for primer.




Thinking about adapting in this G-Body shifter cover I have had kicking around for about 20 years. I think it would look cooler that just a shifter boot attached onto the carpet.

 

I believe that G-body floor shift hump is pretty rare and very valuable on eBay, could probably get a few hundred bucks for it and buy a repop first gen Camaro or Chevelle hump to cut up, and pocket a pretty large difference.

Looks like it could be made to work and I like the idea of a hump, just don't think I'd cut that one up. If you get a repop one you can get the matching boot and bezel for it too to really look like factory.

 

Thanks.

Tried in the past to sell it very cheap, and got no takers....so probably will have a new purpose in the life of a Tri-5.

 

I know nothing about the rarity of this shifter tower but to me it looks almost there. In my case I used an... MGB item which I had to cut & shut a LOT. It fits nicely now but was a PITA so I'd say just use it, time is also a factor.