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Projects 32 perimeter frame build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 750four, Sep 6, 2022.

  1. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    Building a 30’ A on top of 32’ rails. I’ve got the just of the operation but still have a few unanswered questions. I have aquired the rear A Xmember and I will be pinching the front rail for the 30 body and running a flathead v8. Is there someone that makes the front cross member or do I need to narrow and trim a model A Xmember?
    Also as far as the rear Xmember is concerned should I move it rearward in the case of running a 35-6 rear end and spring or is there a way to mount the spring over the axle? I’ll be throwing a 201 in the center.
    This is all for a roadster body. Trying to use all old ford parts. Plans are to lower it a bit but I do not want it in the weeds.

    pic for inspiration

    523C5B89-5C72-4872-8D6C-C5A2253C7D89.jpeg
     
  2. Hi... You must to narrow the Front Member for sure! No reproduction parts for pinched rails or narrowed rails I think! For the rear if you go with a model "A" cross member I suggested to search in Google: Rolling bones rear suspension or something like that!
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2022
  3. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,468

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I've done dozens of 32 chassis for the 30/31 bodies. I start with the stock spreader bar in the rear ( this allows you to use a stock style 32 tank if you choose ) and a pinched front spreader bar 21.5 inches long. This pinches the frame at the firewall. I cut the front cross member to fit in the stock 32 location or slightly forward At the rear I narrow the frame slightly in front of the kickup which allows the body to fit the frame. I locate the rear end in the stock 32 location. You can build the center cross members to whatever you like. As you know you'll have to modify your rear sub rails to fit the frame. ( Steadfast makes a nice rear floor kit to do this ) I also like to pie cut the cowl to get the body to sit down on the frame. You can always contact me with any questions, I have retired from the chassis business.
     
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  4. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,702

    justabeater37
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    49728EEA-8E5B-4F61-9143-58E5D4305188.jpeg D11B155C-8B4A-49FB-AF9E-5D3E96855E30.jpeg 6B340883-70C9-4F8E-8CE5-C0127337ABBA.jpeg 6931B471-6670-4D83-9BA7-F43DFAC33AF2.jpeg 8ABC0EFF-C4FF-43C0-83C1-5BE3442031D4.jpeg 8A7B2F9E-E2DD-45BB-AF04-CDA43CA6F5A8.jpeg A74F6B14-0253-4449-94FC-3F7AFB83EDC0.jpeg Here is one I am working on at the moment. I bought a frame but ended up moving the rear crossmember forward so the body sat more to my liking. Kind of wish I would have come another 1/2” or so to be honest. 35/6 rear on stock wishbones with upper torque arm added. 1953 Merc engine and trans going in it. Sound pretty close to what you are doing so if you need measurements I may be able to help but since the front and rear horns are bobbed I would have to figure a consistent point to measure from in relation to a stock frame.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2022
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  5. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    Thanks all, nice looking rides! I realize I need to cut the front cross member down width wise. But I haven’t been able to source one yet. I was curious if people use a stock model a x member or one of the dropped and degreed 32 style that some online stores sale. I still have a few things to gather before I set up a frame fixture.
     
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  6. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,468

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    If you buy a new one make sure you get a cross member with some caster built in. I've used 100's of Deuce Factory front cross members now sold by Roadster Supply
     
  7. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,702

    justabeater37
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My frame came from Brook Craft up in Michigan. Not too far from you and may be able to set you up cheaper than building a jig and building one yourself. I planned on building my own and even have a table, but worked with him to get one cheap enough I didn't want to mess with building my own.
     
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  8. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    This is what I was thinking I could use and was even curious to what y’all thought of roadster supply.
    https://www.roadstersupply.com/Roadster-Supply-Ford-Front-Crossmember-p/rsc-40611.htm

    as far as building a frame vs buying one. Well I’ve had these American stamping rails for a few years. I found a Rear A Xmember from a friend for cheap and the steel etc for the fixture will be borrowed from the shop I work at. Fabricating is where the fun is!
     
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  9. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    DD8ED28D-CAB6-4A82-9301-2A416D871D5C.jpeg 0CDC3FC9-D5F7-4E17-9188-9D8F253B4E1F.jpeg 3B94EA57-5305-4EB2-9E23-7070969F3097.jpeg E735B75F-1B82-4633-86F4-9CA73AB1C710.jpeg
    i have a lot of work to do..
     
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  10. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    yes, this is what I’m thinking. What tires are you going to run and were you able to use the stock hood or did you lengthen it? Also I have read that some will move the rear forward an inch and a 1/4 to help center the wheel base. and pull the front back 1 1/4”.
     
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  11. justabeater37
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 1,702

    justabeater37
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It is a 32 style 4 piece hood that is 33" at the center hinge. The grille is lowered an inch, the rear crossmember is pulled forward an inch to 105" wheelbase. It is running 7.50-16, and 5.50-16 Auburn Radials. Still waiting on the hood sides, but this is what it's getting.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
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  12. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,536

    continentaljohn
    Member

    Your inspiration picture is my 1929 roadster and it does have the great look thanks. That roadster is on a original model a frame that was Zed in the back.
    It looks like you have a great collection of goodies for your build .
    Here’s a few of my favorites @banjorear on the top and flathead Timmy on the bottom.
    I would search for a original front crossmember for the front and will have the front motor mounts for the flathead on the crossmember. I also would put rear crossmember in original location . The only time you needed to relocate the crossmember is if using a original 32 body. With the model a body you can center your tire in the wheel well and mount the body . This way you will have your location for a number of items for your build The rear mounted in the crossmember ,engine mounted on front crossmember using 1932 mounts sold at Bob drake. Then mount your transmission to the motor to get a location for your center crossmember X member or K member. So I will ask what transmission and are you going open drive or closed torque tube meaning the driveshaft .
    F86118C9-58C1-44B6-91AA-F7557B46E024.jpeg 70B5812B-330C-4087-AB96-578FE36347B4.jpeg
     
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  13. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    I have a t-5 I’m going to use for the tranny. I was thinking the rear xmember would need to be mounted to accommodate the 35-6 rear spring placement. Differing from the model a placement rear spring. I guess you mean a 32 front crossmember is what I should be looking for? The original model a wouldn’t have v8 mounts correct?
     
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  14. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,536

    continentaljohn
    Member

    The model a front crossmember doesn’t have a V8 mount originally but one can be modified. A original 32 front crossmember would give you the mount and width of the perimeter frame and also the caster needed as @krylon32 noted.
    It depends on your rearend banjo / quick change but are you going to use a quick change at some point. If yes to a quick change a model a crossmember would be good for the qc. If not a 32-34 would work but just modify the spring on your 36 ford. You do this by notching or grinding the straight spring to fit into a taper spring crossmember . Going with a later one would be good but modifications to width would be needed .
    I would mock-up the frame engine and trans to get your location of the X member to support your T5 trans.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2022
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  15. prpmmp
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 1,129

    prpmmp
    Member

    Sounds like You could write a Awesome Book(with pictures,I love pictures) Hint Hint!! Pete
     
  16. 750four
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 30

    750four
    Member
    from 47712

    Sorry , I guess it all does come into play, I need to add that I do have a 201 quick change I plan on using. And I do have a model a rear xmember. What I understand is that I need to leave the width in the rear and pinch the front rails by trimming the front 32 Xmember down to fit the body over the rails a bit.
    I’ll be building/fabbing a k member for the t-5. And assuming there is a conversion on the rear end available to lose the torque tube, I’ll be having a drive shaft made for it.

    does one use SPLIT model A front wishbones on a dropped model a axle or SPLIT 32, 33-34 ? Or would hairpins be except able for an early style hot rod?
     
  17. Hello
    Question for you please

    I have a opportunity to purchase a 34 sedan chassis locally.
    Plan is to build a TROG style racer.
    Wondering if this chassis would be a good start?
    I have no other parts so this would be a clean pallet at the moment

    Tks
     

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