Projects 1928 Model A 2 dr Phaeton Build

Your idea of a rust-free body & mine are really different, but welcome & enjoy your build.

 

Haha, yeah this one is almost like if Brookville made a body. That being said, it has it's issues. Apparently a past accident tweaked a few things, so I'm getting everything squared around again. Thanks for the kind words!
~Peter

 

Try here. http://www.westcoaststreetrods.net/project.html

 

Model "A"s need a5 in chop to look right. ReChop it.

 

Got most of the cutting and grinding finished on the A and B pillars. Was a big chore to get all my door gaps and body lines where I wanted them. Ended up "squishing" the roof together .25" on the front A pillars and .125" at the B pillars. This allowed me to get a nice arching door to body gap. Shortened and welded the windshield header bar in place.



Much more finishing work needed on the chop lines, but very happy with the progress so far.

Got the Visor blasted and been messing around with getting some prior damage beaten out and getting it to fit again.


I wanted to get the A & B Pillars structural rigid before I tackled the sheetmetal welding on the rear corners. Going to be doing some vertical relief cuts and getting them finished next.


Ever since I was a kid, I've loved hot rods with gauges across the entire dash. Like this one:


Decided to go with the Stewart Warner Wings series. I wanted to do Green-lines, but they're too 60's in my opinion. I see mixed reviews on the Stewart Warner products nowadays, but I'm willing to give it a shot.


I'll probably space them out a little more than the initial drawing, try and fill as much dash as possible.

5 auxiliary gauges because I'm going to run a water sending unit from each head of the Flathead. But the dash will have to wait until after the body is on the Boling Bros chassis, since my cross braces are welded to the lower windshield rail.

Picking up the Boling Brothers chassis on Thursday, I'll share some pics of their facility as well.

~Peter

 

...Again I am well aware 29 cowls and tanks and other related seams were smoothed in Hotrod...but I had open season on fumes and didn't want to tear apart the whole cowl for gaskets or fill them flush so I caulked most gaps and wiped away with a damp paper towel...you can't really see it as its hidden in shadow but the lines are as Henry made them...just sealed...cheaply

I hope these help...I even see I missed some...My ride is a work in progress but every little detail helps pacify the monster within...

The second pic shows some spot like welds or tacks to the original tank with the lower flange bolted...I should find a more period bolt for those...Model A's had a lot of 1/4" slots with square nuts...
Maybe chrome ones as the engine area is a focal point for that shiny...it makes it faster don't you know...

At a minimum I should straighten the crooked one...
​

 

Pete, are you going to separate the cowl side panels to the pillar to remove the old gasket...I guess its gasketed, sealed or filled...I just ran with what I got and took easy street really with the caulk...

You are at a stage where obviously you have more options...

 

Yeah, plan is to replace the gasket with something that mimics the original. Definitely planning on making the upper cowl bolt on. Once I get the metalwork done I plan on getting the body either acid dipped or media blasted. Lots of old filler and paint that will be a nightmare to strip off otherwise. Not doing full bodywork and paint, just down to bare metal and then a basic prime and color coat. Not set on color yet, I have time for that.

Thanks for the pics above, very helpful!
~Peter

 

In Aviation, sealants are sometimes jokingly referenced as liquid shim and do three things, replace physical gaskets, fill uneven voids, hold stuff together and of course seal out the outside...bonus...

They aren't as in your face as well...

I know your upper tank cap doesn't have a gas axed inside but to anyone axing the tank away make sure to cut the fwd. area away so you won't have any issues with the rad support rod brackets on the upper cowl panel if you're adding one...I had the darndest time bolting that as I have two layers of metal 1/2" apart...they had sheet metal screws only...some stripped as material thickness it minimal...I got them in but what a challenge...Stuff like this benefits both the builder and anyone down the road having to deal with anything within that region...

 

Lookin good @Stogy This is the line I ABSOLUTELY HATE people removing

 

Rest assured, that line is staying.

 

......filling it's actually a period mod going waaaay back but no doubt purpose built along with the filled rear wells and other smoothing to reduce drag or even be different... @Cyclone Kevin's Roadster for example...

Yeah there has to be a number of mods going on to justify that level of smoothing both mine and Pete's builds don't warrant that...

 

Way back to Boyd, for sure!

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-clem-waske-29-roadster-265b.1020244/

...uhhh...no...they were doing it when Boyd was a kid in sheetmetal and lead...





...Boyd who?...

Keeping it real is a many splendored thing...

Just reference that it is like it or not, I would suspect Traditional...I can assure you that if I got one like any above of the above I would revere it along with whatever else I could preserve that wouldn't kill me...

Just spreading the Gospel...So Pete that raises a question...Traditional on a site that caters to the birth of Hotrod to 1965 what year of a Traditional look are you aiming for 1960? there are differences for sure...
​

 

You mean arc welding the seam on the edge of the gas tank filled with water for safety?

 

He has a Brookville Tank Cover. he was considering welding the seams together inside rather than bolts...they are bolted to the side cowl with a gasket OEM and aftermarket...I suggested sealant as an alternative on the outside once welded...but when you have a stocker with gaskets in other places one has to decide to follow or use another method...

 

This is a steel RPU that I’m building for a buddy of mine. I sourced every part on this hot rod. Lots from my own stash. Yup the cowl is filled much like the WASKE Effect 29 roadster that’s no more than 10 feet behind it here.

 

I'm aiming for a 1955-57 Era build.

 

Perfect...they all have their place, that was a great period without a doubt...awesome choice...the beginning of the fin era a big evolution in V8 as well...

 

Agreed, that way if I decided down the road that I want to install an OHV in the car, everything else still fits with the period.

~Peter

 

Trip went great, three 14hr days of driving roundtrip, 2500 miles in total; but it saved me a lot of expense vs shipping and it arrived safely.




Top frame is a standard Highboy Perimeter I delivered for a guy in Amarillo. He helped cover some of the travel expenses. The weight of both frames is supported by the wood blocks in the bed, the hitch support is just there to add assistance and keep the bears off my back.

Build quality is outstanding. Definitely a cleaner and straighter frame than I could've made. Took a bunch of pics of their operation. Very impressive setup. I'll post a few here, but I'm tempted to post a full gallery and review somewhere here on the site for all members to see. Definitely getting my full endorsement.



Here's a special preview of their next release:



They will soon be offering 32 Ford frames as well as the existing ones for Ts & As. They source the outer rails, and then install their own X member and crossmembers. The rear kickup has proprietary step box inserts to add strength but keep the stock looking inner rails.
One of their 5-12 frames, a little too much sweep for a traditional rod, but certainly gets the car low without sacrificing suspension travel. Mine is only a 2-8 in comparison.

I'll probably do some initial parts layout and mockup here in the next few days, but I want to get some more of the chop finished before I get distracted by the rolling chassis.

~Peter

 

Welded up some more of the chop, trying to get everything structurally sound enough to cut the floor out and install on the new Chassis.


^The rear curve isn't done yet, just the C Pillar.

Got everything in the back symmetrical and welded. Going to do the hardest part next, the back curved corners. That's going to take some creative slices to get it all rounded and flowing.

Since my Chassis is complete sans rear axle, I brought in the 1957 Chevrolet 8.2" I got in Tulsa last week, and got all the old leaf spring and traction bar brackets removed. Then I smoothed and scoured the rest of the housing.

Was totally full of fluid, no metal shavings and no signs of water! Great indication of health, but I'll still fully recondition the differential once the car is blown apart for final paint and assembly.




Determined the rear axle ratio to be 3.36=1 which is perfect in combination with my .83 T5 transmission and the 30" diameter tires. Highway speeds should be between 2100-2450rpm.

Gonna tear down the rear brakes to get those cables unhooked and so the drums turn more easily. Then it's time to bring in the new Chassis and start getting things assembled and onto the next step.



Decided to go with blackwalls, so I got my 15" rims ordered as well as some 820-15 Firestones for the rear. I was inspired by how well they looked on @joeybsyc 's 32.


I happen to have 6.70-15 Firestones for the front that were from a previous restoration, so saving a little money there. No idea if I'm going to run dog dish or full caps at this time. Nor is paint color for the rims decided.

~Peter

 

Wicked chassis you got, they’re operation looks top notch.
Can’t wait to see the body get dropped onto that chassis!

 

That frame is really sweet!

 

Started on frame assembly today. I'm using an older Chrome drop axle that I bought at the Pate Swap Meet 10yrs ago, not sure on what brand but it looks like the first ones Speedway started selling.



Got all the boxes unpacked, and I'm very happy with the quality thus far. Here's their front Brake Kit:


Keen eyes will spot my new front wheels, they're 15x4 Wheel Vintiques. Going to run 15x6 in the rear.

Lots of parts:


Don't have the frame totally mocked up yet, waiting on getting the rear axle assembly welded to the brackets and installed, probably tomorrow.


Custom hubs in the front with 5x4.5" bolt pattern. I figured this was a smart route that way if I want to change the look of the wheel and tire combo it'll be 4.5" front and 4.75" rear which are both commonly found on identical wheels. Why didn't I go 4.75" all the way around? When I ordered the frame I didn't have a rear end picked out yet, so I just chose the bolt pattern I'm most familiar with.




~Peter

 

Oh yeah, also got my back tires and rims today. Got the rims in a Henry approved coat of Black and getting the tires unsquished before I drop them off at my tire shop to hopefully get them mounted tomorrow.




I can always repaint the rims another color, even with the tires mounted, but I hate working around primed surfaces in the meantime, oils get trapped on the factory grey primer surface and make it a hassle to prep for final paint anyways.

~Peter

 

Finished assembly on the front suspension. Just rolling hubs for now, didn't assemble all the brakes since all this is getting blown apart for paint and chrome.

Borgeson Vega-style Cross steer. Performs far better than F1, though definitely a sacrifice from my 1957 era style.

Haven't gotten the front tires mounted yet, so just through some spare tires on the front to see how ride height and clearance will be, looking really nice!

I assume Camber is a little out because there isn't any weight on the front? Definitely looks worse in the pic than in real life.


Got my rear tires mounted today, doesn't get much better than that:


Going to push on the rear axle assembly tomorrow and this weekend, hoping to have a rolling chassis soon!

~Peter

 

Peter, Regarding the new chopped top look; my dad used to tell me, "leave well enough alone" ...

 

Hi Peter
Welcome to the rest of your life ! Your life is going to be grand ! Great choice indeed an A with solid integrity and making up-to-date roadworthy upgrades and style changes .
As for parts and year identification I utilize a little white book for reference fits in your pocket at swap meets and is better than nothing for reference . I'm not near the book right now but it's got an A drawn on the cover and readily available thru all Model A and Ford Antique Parts and manual sources . It was about $11 and makes me more comfortable when purchasing parts and making parts decisions for all Model A's .
I highly recommend you get yourself one . I will research later and inform you of it's name . Do have a nice day and keep your foot in it !

 

That camber is NOT going to change with weight. Your axle is off, a truck shop knows how to bend it but since yours is chrome it may crack the finish. It also depend on if it cast or forged. They may not even want to mess with a cast axle as it will probably snap in the process.