Projects 1928 Model A 2 dr Phaeton Build

I understand you like the open wheel look. Since you have a nice set of fenders, maybe find a way to use them? In my opinion, a lot of rods get built as a high-boy, simply because the builder doesn’t have a set of fenders. Of course, do as you please. Keep up the good work.

 

Appreciate the idea! I'm channeling the body the width of the new frame, so going with fenders would create a weird proportion.

That being said, a few have managed to pull it off:



And in my opinion, not quite so cool:


I may do some bobbed rear fenders and old school "spare-tire cover" fenders up front, but that will be decided once the body is on the chassis.

~Peter

 

Since you have a nice set of fenders, maybe find a way to use them? In my opinion, a lot of rods get built as a high-boy, simply because the builder doesn’t have a set of fenders.

They still look better with fenders.

 

Sure thing. Right on. You have a good plan. I just dig that teal sedan you posted too.

 

Peter thats a nice chop and it looks like pretty good sheetmetal.I would defiantly go with the Boling Bros chassis.I did the same chassis for my 31 sedan and very happy with it.My build is pretty much like yours,flathead T5 lincoln front brakes 32 dash.Keep up the good work its looking good so far.

 

Wow, that's a great looking sedan! Is that the 2-8 highboy chassis? I'm doing the 2-8 with their channel kit. If you have any pics or a build thread, I'd love to see more!

 

@caprockfabshop it is admirable that you chose to move the original chassis on to someone looking for such.

You may have not had an ownership with the car...but I just want to mention a major vin identification is on the original frame left side under the cowl...so its all good if your going with a new build with new number but I always think of this when I see things being swapped out with something else that was no big deal in the good ole days.

Look forward to your vision coming together...

 

Hey Peter, I just read through your thread. Awesome build you’ve started and thank you for taking the time to document it for us! Lots of inspiration here to be had, I can’t wait for you to keep updating. Definitely following along.

 

Got a few presents from Brookville Roadster today!

Got the smooth 28-29 Cowl Top and Upper Firewall insert clamped in place with practically no fiddling required! Very impressed with the fit and finish. Need to drill all the holes for bolting but I'm tempted to weld it instead. Any input on that?








Lots of room for gauges and wiring up under the cowl now!


I also bought one of their 32 Ford style dashes, but I need to make some modifications before it fits the dash the way I want it to.


With the Visor on it, I like the chop where it's at. 2.5" seems to my eye to work well with the original lines and it'll mean that if I ever want to sell the car down the road (no plans to, but you know how it goes) I can market it to taller gents too.

Going to work on getting all the welding and body finishing done on the chop next, and then start prepping for getting the car stripped to bare metal for more panel-work and paint prep. Thanks to the great advice on this thread: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/brush-painting-model-a.1271883/ I've decided to brush paint this after applying a primer coat. This whole build is meant to be an homage to the early 50's and that should be a fun experience.

~Peter

 

Leaving it bolted in allows one access if required...I used gray latex caulking along the bolted gasketless tank seam on the side cowl and it still remains after 2 or more years now...

...I see however since the tank top is just that a removable dash may allow any access necessary...so welding it up is certainly an option...the upper firewall insert in also bolted on the lower seam on mine with the top still spot welded as it was a real tank cut out...so you can drill and mig/tig in a spot weld like method along the top and seal all around after to waterproof those seams...did Brookfield offer any suggestions?

 

No instructions and nothing online that I can find. It went together super easy, but I think installation is left to the interpretation of the builder. I think I'll do my usual sleep on it method and see what occurs to me in the shower. Seems I get many lightbulbs moments in there...

True that since the dash panel bolts in from the inside, and since my brake and clutch cylinders will be under the floor, there won't really be a need for a removable upper cowl.

~Peter

 

I actually think I may have a Brookfield upper firewall panel in front of the gas axed original Tank...as you can see it was bolted along the bottom...

I ran that caulking from the rear bottom cowl to pillar up and around the tank including the tank to side cowl and around onto the upper firewall panel bolted seam and upper curved seam...

 

Now's the time to consider installing a roll-down rear window, a great help in ventilating (wish I had one, too late).

I'm sure there're kits from several models of cars of similar age -- probably easy to adapt.

 

The rear side windows roll down all the way, but I'd have to look and see what's possible for the back glass itself. Interesting idea!

 

I had a look at the upper firewall panel and it looks like there was a series of tacks along the width of the upper curve to tank top with the bottom flange again bolted...

Are you considering filling the side seam from tank to cowl side...or welding inside and filling the outside with caulking? One gives the two piece look and the other smoothed one piece...

The other thing is there is a gasket from the aft side panel to the post that used to run right around the aft tank to the other side and down...are you separating it or trimming it off and just caulking it...mine had none so I caulked it up again with Dap Grey latex Caulk and its performed well and goes with my paint even...it dries flat...and is even paintable I believe...

 

@flatout51 has a flatty and 3 speed in his roadster and I’ve rarely seen it going slower than 80

 

I'm open to either, but I fear that by filling the horizontal gap between upper and lower panel I may lose some of the original quaintness and end up with a car that looks like a fiberglass replica:


I think leaving the gap keeps the car "honest" if that makes sense?


Even if I bolt the cowl in I'll do some kind of welting or caulking where it meets the base of the windshield frame.

~Peter

 

So, what other OHV engines do you have to pick from? Personally, I would want 250+ H.P. minimum in today's world.... reliability is #1

 

I disagree, a lot of "modern" cars from the last 30yrs only have 115hp and weigh 2100lbs (miata/Civic) so a flathead and 5 speed should be no problem. But for the sake of conversation I really only have two OHV candidates at the moment.

1:
1956 Desoto 330 Hemi, was rebuilt, then the body shop left it outside in a freeze and cracked the block. So I'd have the expense of having another block machined to accept all the new internals. Of course, they don't make aftermarket intakes for the Desoto, so I'm stuck with OEM manifold options.

2:

1956 Dodge 315ci Polyhead - running motor with reconditioned heads. I'm pulling it next month to install a 325ci Hemi in the car, so hypothetically this would work in the A. Takes same three deuce intakes as the Hemi, but it's the plain poly. 100+lbs more than a flathead.

Both engines would of course require a tougher transmission than a S10 T5, and that would mean automatic or a very expensive TKO/TKX 5 speed.

I love the look and sound of a flathead, and I think that the future generations need to know how hot rodding was done, and I'd love to be able to teach that next generation how to rebuild and work on the Flathead V8.

~Peter

 

Agreed keep it honest or a better word would be consistent to the rest of the build...a filled cowl is something that was done but it was followed by other things filled such as the wheelwells...

That copper colored A is a pretty nice build...I think removing the cowl lights and windwings might have complimented the look but not mine...did they make glass 29 Tudors?

The second one is a Hambers, is it @scrap metal 48's...I think...

I just found the Caulk was a better fit for me seeing it was all bolted together and painted without any gasketing but plenty of daylight for noxious gases and water to penetrate...

I'm going to a show tommorow and will take some better shots of the places that matter...

A few holes bumped through the tank top from your existing side cowl panels with bolts would be less heat making for less chance of warping...

Oh those engine choices are dandy...

 

Yeah, Spirit does. Though the picture shows a 30-31ish cowl.

 

Looking good!
I would bolt it together. The seam makes it look 'right', you can use caulk or seam sealer to keep things dry, and.... it gives you options for access/modification at a later date.
I may be wrong (I'm not a MoPar guy) but don't Hemi heads fit the early Poly block? Just sayin'.....
However, your flathead choice is solid.... both choices ae 70 years old, so pick whichever one fits your plan best. If you decide on the DeSoto, don't sweat the intake.... a 2 barrel will still have plenty of snort that light car!
Since you're using the stock visor (IMHO they look like ass without them), I think you'll find the chop is just right. A buddy of mine had a '29 with more chop and got a stiff neck trying to see traffic lights. Thinking ahead to the resale aspect is smart, too.
Carry on...

 

Yeah man I've never had an issue running with traffic!

 

Hey peter i used boling bros 2-5 chassis.I Bought it right before they got their mandrel bender so my frame is Z'd in the rear.I have not done a build thread yet but heres a few pics of the build.

 

Dumbest idea ever! The best part of the 28/9 is that bodyline

 

I think Stogy was referring to the horizontal line between the cowl tank and the side panel, not the curved line of the lower A pillar.

~Peter

 

That's a great looking setup! Glad to see room for a full exhaust in the chassis since I'm not planning on running lakester headers. Thanks for the pics!

 

Picked up the best candidate for rear axle today from Poco here on the HAMB.

Jan 11, 1957 casting date Chevrolet 8.2" 10-bolt - Came out of his 1939/40 Ford Tudor street rod. So it has a little hot rod background already.


A little newer than I was looking for, but the right width, good looking center section visually, and very easy to get parts for.

These things can easily handle 350+ hp, so no matter what this model A ends up with, the rear axle is good to go. I'll tear it down and do a full rebuild in addition to stripping it and installing the ladderbar and transverse leaf mounts.

In other news, Boling Bros called today to inform me that my chassis is already done and ready for pickup! I was pleasantly surprised since the initial 6-8 week build time was more than reasonable for something custom built to my specs, but they came through big time!

So there will be a little Lindsay, CA roadtrip next week, should be a good time!

Got my Flathead engine stand mount so I can teardown the '40 Flathead and send it to the machine shop for testing. Busy days!

~Peter

 

"Dumbest idea ever! The best part of the 28/9 is that bodyline."
Naaa. The best part is the "Coupe Pillar".

 

great build so far!!! stance reminds me of my 30(my avatar)