So here is my issue. I have a 32 Tudor that is in need of floors and sub rails from a little behind the B pillar pretty much all the way to the rear panel. And yes, I have done my research and searched here on the HAMB and elsewhere. I know that i can use 5 window or sub rails with a little modification or even possibly a whole United Pacific replacement floor modified to work with the Tudor body. But i dont really need all of it, just from behind the door back. I have yet to find any one selling rear back half sub rails for a roadster or 5 window, though I know I've seen them before, which could be made to work. But what about the rear sub rail kits for putting a model A on a 32 frame from @Steadfast mfg ? It's a great kit, and I'm having a hard time seeing why that wouldn't work just fine. I'd have to modify 5 window sub rails anyway so why wouldn't these work just the same? Has anyone out there done this? I'd much rather cut on $500 sub rails than $1400 ones.... My concern is really just around the wheel opening, and if it would come out from the frame rail enough to be able to attached the lower wheel well to the sub rail. In my head it seems like it should work, but hoping maybe someone has done it before, or at least people that have used them on a model A could show some pictures of the process as they did it. Floors are the easy part, once the sub rails and the body is squared up and straight. Any one have any insight?
I thought Brookville used to sell front or back halves of their subrails. I think a stock style subrail would be a huge benefit over the universal Steadfast kind. You will still need to widen the area between the B pillar and the wheelwell, as the sedan rockers stick out farther than the coupes and roadsters do. I've seen guys add coupe and roadster inner wheelwells to their sedans to give more tire space. As you will find, the sloped sedan wheelwell will rub the tire at the top.
^^^ like said above , Doors longer on Tudor Sedan , same fame used on 32s ,Sub rails different, Modification required , You will need pics or see one with no interior for Difference, ( if yours to gone for reference) 32 sedans , very little to none reproduction made, Floor pan different front seat back also. Over near , Between FrontRoyal & Winchester (66 & 81) there is a full restoration shop, I believe town White Post , been there for years.
I’ll check brookville out again. I don’t disagree that it may be less modification using roadster back half’s than a universal kit.
Eary on Brookville was using the roadster subrails on the roadster pickups & sold the back section very reasonable, they were listed in their catalog if I'm not mistaken. Might ck. with Tom Bay as well
I know you said you don't want to fab your own but it's not a real complicated task. I did some several years ago and I just took a pattern of what I wanted to a local sheet metal shop and they made me a couple 6 ft pieces out of I think 11 or 12 gauge. I then shaped them to the 32 frame and attached the body to them then used a reproduction roadster rear floor.
that’s not a bad idea actually. I could buy a good shrinker stretcher setup for what it would cost to buy new subrails.
they do list rear half subrails and they are cheap ($175 probably each) but they do not have a picture. I’ll have to call them tomorrow and see if they can tell me where they start from.
Built a pair for my avatar, the main bottom follows the frame of course made from flat stock on top, the sides are flat stock welded to them at a 90-degree angle down the sides with an approximate 1/2" lip at the bottom of which the rockers, quarters are tacked to. The top I believe I used 1-1/4" x 3/4" rectangle tubing laid atop full length from the "A" post area all the way back over the axle where it ties in. I had no access to a brake all hand formed. The tubing portion was trimmed at an angle in the rocker area to accept Tom Bay rockers. If you access the Iron Trap garage, he has a good video to help. I'm not up to speed with the photo thing online, but if in need give me a ph. # & could get them to you. The Iron Trap made a series of slices to get the tubing to conform to the rise over the axle, but I found it not necessary if advanced in a fixture in small increments of an inch or so & slowly formed without collapsing. I used the tow retriever hooks on my truck front bumper as a means to feed & shape, all without heating only cautious forming. The tubing also curves around where the frame rails bow out, this also can be done as above. This was 15 plus years prior to the U.P.I. 5w pieces, & the Brookville roadster pieces were different enough that I went this route. Please inquire if I can help. Ron
The Jalopy Journal
