It's been awhile since I did an A but might be for the angled metal toe board pieces that attach there and to the fire wall.
I wondered the same thing. Maybe they were used for some type of factory assembly tooling? I'll probably get some plugs for mine. Maybe a call to Snyder's or Bert's would produce an answer.
They’re brand new repop parts and toepiece has to be where it is to match up the floor seam on firewall. Maybe these don’t match the originals? No biggie, just curious what they are, my floor was a channeled hack job and have nothing to work off other than internet wisdom.
They look just like my repop's from Brookville. I think they match the originals real well. I don't think they were for any wood. In another thread you asked about a tranny hump. I just put my mock up engine (327/TH350) in and I do have a slight interference right at the joint between toe board piece and the front floor piece. I made mine two pieces with a flange but I see yours in all one piece. I'm now working on a small hump. I'm building my car to accommodate other transmissions in case I want to change to a 4 speed or run my B&M Turbo Clutch. I'm almost certain you'll be doing some sort of hump.
pic from here on the hamb Should help with the brace. My memory isn’t the best for model As. But isn’t there a block of wood in that area under the sub rail? I could be wrong. For some reason I thought the roadster had a block of wood.
You might be right! I didn't think about under the sub-rail. Now that you mention it I think maybe the original A's did have some wood between the body and frame.
The front wood blocks are held in place with two wood screws, the blocks are an odd shape and need the screws to hold them in place on the assembly line. The other wood blocks were a tight fit in the channels. Bob
Will do. I ordered the material and am working out the details. These cars are very small. Packaging everything (pedals etc.) with good driver ergonomics has been a nice challenge. Hopefully you'll get your frame soon and open the next can of worms!
Yep I hope ditching the channeled floor and gaining back the 4” of space will help. Couldn’t drive it before as the brake and gas were jammed under the steering column. It sucked with my size 13s.
If that part is now being reproduced/made Now . Must be in last 10ish years ( subframe to firewall) The op pic , For the 30-31 its not made correct to originals , those bolt hole are for the original design FoMoCo Todur,roaster ,coupe & Believe 3 holes triangular pattern may be 2 thoe on sub rail & 3 on firewall, I used a BV new subrail then all other original Ford . Bolt thread I'm sure was also #12 screw thread, Original ones where hard to find in good shape ( brace) 10 yrs ago, Most just would bend up a metal brace & weld in . Im sure someone here has a pic with original firewall and subrail & brace, if not i know on the Barn
These are originals , not my pic, my post above might be completely wrong about Bolt in & screw holes, Been over 10 years , & im not near roaster to verify , maybe spot weld to subrail then Rivets to fire wall , & 2 bolt holes in subrail, I'm question about what I remember for & sold a compleat original frame & body with original wood. Just remembered the screw holes where there to hold the subrail Extensions wood in place, Until body was sat on frame
My 1930 tudor has never been apart. This body has never been off of the frame. As you can see in the picture there were two flat head straight slot screws to hold the wood block.
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